The Scottish Alchemists: Why anOrdain Matters
In the quiet corners of Glasgow, a small team of artisans is doing something that the rest of the watch world had largely relegated to the history books or the six-figure price brackets of Patek Philippe. They are making vitreous enamel dials by hand. The Anordain Model 1 Blue Fumé is not just a time-telling device; it is a physical manifestation of a refusal to take shortcuts. When I first strapped the Model 1 to my wrist for this review, I expected the dial to be the star of the show. What I didn't expect was how well-considered the rest of the package would be for the modern, active collector.
Vivre readers often ask me for the 'perfect' daily watch—one that works in the boardroom but doesn't feel like a relic at a weekend gallery opening. The Model 1 hits this mark with a precision that borders on the uncanny. It doesn't rely on the tired tropes of dive watches or the fragility of traditional dress watches. Instead, it carves out a new category: the artisanal daily.
The Dial: A Deep Dive into Blue Fumé
The centerpiece of the Model 1 is, without question, the Blue Fumé dial. To understand this dial is to understand the pain of its creation. Vitreous enamel is essentially glass, powdered and fired in a kiln at temperatures exceeding 800 degrees Celsius. The 'fumé' effect—the gradient from a bright, electric center to a dark, near-black periphery—is achieved by the skill of the enameler as they layer the translucent glass over a silver blank that has been precisely hammered or 'engine-turned' to create texture.
In person, the blue is hypnotic. It isn't a flat color; it's a liquid depth. In low light, the watch looks like a conservative navy blue piece. But as you move your wrist toward a window or under a spotlight, the center of the dial ignites. The texture of the silver beneath the enamel catches the light, creating a shimmering effect that looks like sunlight hitting the bottom of a deep Scottish loch. This is the 'Grand Feu' (Great Fire) technique, and at this price point, it is virtually unheard of elsewhere in the industry.
The typography is another area where anOrdain shines. Rather than using standard Swiss fonts, they developed their own numerals inspired by the maps of the British Ordnance Survey. The result is a clean, modern, yet slightly nostalgic look that provides excellent legibility against the complex background of the enamel. The hands are heat-blued steel, skeletal in design so as not to obscure the dial's beauty, and they are finished to a standard that rivals far more expensive marques.
On the Wrist: Lug-to-Lug and Daily Ergonomics
As a reviewer, I prioritize how a watch survives a Tuesday afternoon more than how it looks in a lightbox. The Model 1 is a triumph of ergonomics. The 38mm case diameter is the 'Goldilocks' zone for the modern collector—large enough to have presence, small enough to remain elegant. However, the most important measurement is the 46mm lug-to-lug distance. The lugs are relatively short and curve downward sharply, which means the watch wraps around the wrist rather than perching on top of it.
At 11mm thick, it is impressively slim for an automatic watch. This thinness is partially due to the choice of the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, which allows for a more compact case design than some bulkier alternatives. Throughout my week of testing, the watch never snagged on a sweater or felt top-heavy. Whether I was carrying a laptop bag or navigating a crowded commute, the Model 1 felt secure and unobtrusive. The 20mm lug width is also a blessing for those who like to swap straps, though the factory-supplied German suede is so comfortable I saw no reason to change it.
The Movement: The Heart of the Beast
Inside the Model 1 beats the La Joux-Perret G100. For the uninitiated, La Joux-Perret is a high-end movement specialist based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, now owned by Citizen but operating with a distinctly Swiss soul. The G100 is their answer to the workhorse ETA 2824, but with significant upgrades. Most notably, it offers a 68-hour power reserve. In practical terms, this means you can take the watch off on Friday evening and it will still be ticking on Monday morning—a 'weekend-proof' feature that is essential for a daily-wear piece.
The movement is regulated by anOrdain’s watchmakers in Glasgow. During my week with the piece, it remained remarkably consistent, losing only a few seconds when placed crown-up overnight. While the Model 1 features a solid caseback (which I prefer for a watch of this style), knowing that there is a high-quality, reliable caliber inside provides the peace of mind necessary for a watch that is meant to be worn, not just admired in a safe.
Legibility and Real-World Utility
If there is one critique often leveled at enamel dials, it is that they can be difficult to read. Anordain counters this with their skeletonized hands. The white tips of the hands provide a sharp contrast against the dark blue enamel, making it easy to tell the time at a glance. However, it is important to note the lack of lume. This is not a watch for the dark. If you find yourself in a dimly lit cinema or walking home on a moonless night, you will struggle to read the time. For me, this is a fair trade-off for the purity of the dial design, but it is something a prospective buyer should consider.
The 50m water resistance is adequate for daily life—it will survive a rainstorm or a splash while washing your hands—but this is not a watch for the pool. Given the value and the fragility of the enamel dial (which can crack if the watch is subjected to extreme shocks), I treated it with the respect one would accord a fine dress watch, even though its aesthetic is more versatile.
The Investment Perspective
We must address the elephant in the room: the waitlist. As of this writing, anOrdain has moved to a reservation system that stretches years into the future. This scarcity has driven secondary market prices well above the retail MSRP. For a young collector, this makes the Model 1 a 'safe' investment, but that is almost beside the point. You don't buy an Anordain to flip it; you buy it because you want to own a piece of the future of British watchmaking.
The value proposition at the retail price of approximately $3,600 is staggering. You are getting a handmade dial that, if it had a Swiss name like 'Voutilainen' or 'Moser' on it, would cost five times as much. Even at secondary market prices of $5,000, it remains a compelling purchase because there is simply nothing else that looks quite like this.
Final Verdict
The Anordain Model 1 Blue Fumé is a rare bird in the horological world. It is a watch that appeals to the heart through its incredible craftsmanship and to the head through its sensible proportions and reliable movement. It is comfortable enough to wear every day and beautiful enough to be a conversation starter at the highest levels of society. While the lack of lume and the modest water resistance might deter the 'one-watch' enthusiast who needs a diver, for the sophisticated collector, it is an essential addition to the rotation. It is a reminder that the best things in life—and in watchmaking—are often worth the wait.
