# Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (38 mm) – A Thin‑Line Dress Watch Re‑Sized
Blancpain’s Villeret line has always been the brand’s answer to classic, understated elegance, but the original Ultraplate—at a generous 40 mm—was often criticised for being a touch too large for a true dress watch. The newest iteration, reference **6224 1127 55B**, trims the case down to a more wearable **38 mm** while retaining the ultra‑thin silhouette that made the model famous. The result is a watch that looks at home under a tuxedo cuff and on a casual shirt alike, all without sacrificing the in‑house engineering Blancpain is known for. Below is a hands‑on look at how the downsized Ultraplate measures up in design, movement, wearability and value.
## Design & Case
| Spec | Detail |
|------|--------|
| **Reference** | 6224 1127 55B |
| **Case diameter** | 38 mm |
| **Case thickness** | 8.35 mm |
| **Material** | Polished 18 K yellow gold (other finishes available) |
| **Bezel** | Stepped, ultra‑thin, with a subtle fluted edge |
| **Dial** | Opaline or salmon‑hued sunburst, silvered hour markers, baton hands |
| **Water resistance** | 30 m (splash‑proof) |
| **Crystal** | Sapphire, anti‑reflective coating on both sides |
The first thing you notice is the **stepped bezel**—a hallmark of the Villeret family—now rendered in a slimmer profile that complements the 38 mm case rather than overpowering it. At **8.35 mm** thick, the watch is still among the thinnest automatic dress pieces on the market, a testament to Blancpain’s dedication to the “ultra‑thin” ethos. The polished 18 K gold case catches the light without being ostentatious, and the optional salmon dial adds a contemporary splash of colour while retaining the line’s classic restraint.
The **date window** sits at the 3 o’clock position, a design choice that provokes mixed feelings. While the aperture is discreet, its placement on a watch this small can feel a little intrusive, especially when the dial is already busy with the sunburst finish. Nevertheless, the window is well‑finished, with a thin, brushed rectangle that doesn’t detract from the overall harmony.
Overall, the downsizing resolves the “too big for a dress watch” criticism that haunted the 40 mm version, delivering a proportion that feels natural on a wrist that prefers classic dimensions.
## Movement & Performance
| Spec | Detail |
|------|--------|
| **Movement** | Blancpain Manufacture Caliber 1150 (automatic) |
| **Height** | 3.25 mm |
| **Power reserve** | 100 hours |
| **Frequency** | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| **Accuracy** | COSC‑certified (± 4–6 seconds per day) |
| **Decoration** | Côtes de Genève, perlage on bridges, polished rotor |
At the heart of the Ultraplate sits Blancpain’s **Caliber 1150**, an in‑house automatic that is **3.25 mm** thick—remarkably slim for a self‑winding movement. The rotor is integrated into the movement’s plane, preserving the watch’s overall thinness while still providing a reliable winding efficiency. The **100‑hour power reserve** is generous for a movement of this depth, meaning the watch can comfortably sit idle for four days without needing a reset.
Cosmetic finishing is tasteful rather than ostentatious: the bridges feature **Côtes de Genève**, the main plate bears a subtle perlage, and the rotor is polished to a mirror finish, all of which are visible through the sapphire crystal. The movement’s **COSC certification** guarantees an accuracy of **± 4–6 seconds per day**, which is more than adequate for a dress watch that will spend most of its time in a formal setting.
One minor performance note: because the movement is so thin, the balance wheel is slightly lighter than in thicker calibers, which can make the watch a touch more sensitive to shocks. In everyday use this is negligible, but it’s something to be aware of if you subject the watch to vigorous activity.
## On the Wrist
The **lug‑to‑lug** spread measures roughly **44 mm**, giving the 38 mm case a balanced footprint that sits comfortably between the wrist and the hand. The watch feels almost weightless thanks to the slim case and the relatively modest gold mass; it hovers on the wrist rather than pressing down. The **comfort** is further enhanced by the polished, rounded case edges that glide over the skin without snagging.
The **strap** (or bracelet) is typically a hand‑stitched all‑igator leather strap in black or brown, though a matching gold‑link bracelet is also offered. The leather options add a tactile warmth that underscores the watch’s dressy intent, while the bracelet provides a more formal, all‑metal look. In either configuration, the watch sits snugly without the need for excessive adjustment, thanks to the well‑engineered spring bars and the modest lug width (18 mm).
The **date window**—while aesthetically acceptable—does create a tiny visual distraction when the watch is viewed from the side, especially on a smaller wrist where the dial’s real estate is at a premium. For purists who prefer a clean dial, the presence of the date may be a deal‑breaker, but for most wearers the compromise is minor compared with the overall elegance.
## Value & Verdict
Blancpain does not position the Villeret Ultraplate as an entry‑level piece; it sits firmly in the **high‑end dress‑watch segment**. While the exact retail price for reference 6224 1127 55B is not disclosed in the public domain, the closely related **Ultra‑Slim** model (reference 6651‑1127‑55B) is listed at **≈ US $13,800**. Given the shared calibre, case thickness and gold construction, it is reasonable to expect the Ultraplate to be priced in the same ballpark.
At that price point, the watch competes with the likes of Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Thin and Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin collections. Blancpain’s edge lies in its **in‑house calibre** and the **ultra‑thin engineering** that delivers a 100‑hour reserve—features that many competitors either outsource or achieve with a thicker profile.
**Pros**
- Truly wearable 38 mm case for a classic dress watch.
- Exceptionally thin 8.35 mm case and 3.25 mm movement.
- Robust 100‑hour power reserve in an ultra‑thin package.
- High‑grade finishing and elegant gold construction.
**Cons**
- Date window feels out of place on a dial this small.
- Limited water resistance (30 m) – not suitable for swimming or diving.
- Price is high; the watch competes with several other ultra‑thin dress pieces offering similar specifications.
**Verdict:** Blancpain has successfully addressed the most common criticism of the original Ultraplate by reducing the case to 38 mm without compromising its signature thinness or mechanical prowess. The result is a watch that feels natural on the wrist, offers a respectable power reserve, and showcases Blancpain’s in‑house expertise. While the date aperture may irk purists and the price remains premium, the Villeret Ultraplate (38 mm) stands as a compelling choice for anyone seeking a modern, ultra‑thin dress watch that does not sacrifice heritage or performance. In the crowded arena of high‑end dress watches, it earns a solid **4.5 out of 5** in our rating.
