Breguet Type XX Chronograph Review – A Modern Homage That Walks the Line Between Heritage and Today
By Vivir Editorial·
# Breguet Type XX Chronograph Review – A Modern Homage That Walks the Line Between Heritage and Today
Breguet’s Type XX has always been a touchstone for the brand’s early‑20th‑century chronograph lineage, and the 2023‑released 2067ST/92/SW0 tries to bridge that historic DNA with contemporary expectations. The result is a striking steel‑case fly‑back that wears the unmistakable Breguet aesthetic while borrowing the high‑beat movement that has become a hallmark of the house’s recent releases. In this review we’ll break down the watch’s design, its inner workings, how it feels on the wrist, and whether the roughly $17,500 price tag (per Breguet’s own pricing guide) is justified in today’s market.
## Design & Case
| Specification | Detail |
|---------------|--------|
| **Reference** | 2067ST/92/SW0 |
| **Case diameter** | 42 mm |
| **Material** | Polished stainless steel |
| **Bezel** | Bidirectional graduated rotating bezel |
| **Dial** | Silver‑gray with luminescent Breguet hands, Arabic hour‑markers, date window at 3 o’clock, seconds sub‑dial at 6 o’clock |
| **Case back** | Sapphire crystal |
| **Water resistance** | 100 m (10 bar) |
The Type XX’s 42 mm steel case is a deliberate enlargement from the original 38.3 mm model that debuted in 1919. Breguet’s designers kept the iconic “cigar‑box” silhouette, but the modern proportions give the watch a more commanding wrist presence. Reviewers have praised the case shape, noting it “comes closer to the original than the Type XX ref. 3800” (Fratello Watches). The rotating bezel—rare on chronographs—adds a functional, aviation‑inspired cue while the engraved Breguet logo on the sapphire back reinforces the brand’s heritage.
The dial is clean, with a subtle sunburst finish that catches the light without being overly flashy. Luminescent Breguet hands and Arabic numerals provide excellent legibility in low light. However, the inclusion of a date window at 3 o’clock has drawn criticism; some observers argue it “mess[es] up the beautifully designed dial, cut[ting] off the Arabic ‘5’” (WatchAdvice). This is a genuine design compromise: the date adds practicality but disrupts the visual symmetry that purists expect from a classic Breguet chronograph.
Overall, the case feels solid and well‑finished. The polished steel is resistant to fingerprints, and the sapphire caseback offers a glimpse of the movement without sacrificing durability.
## Movement & Performance
At the heart of the Type XX lies Breguet’s self‑winding caliber 728, a high‑beat (5 Hz) automatic that delivers a smooth, humming sweep of the second hand. The movement offers a 60‑hour power reserve—ample for occasional wearers and a modest improvement over many 48‑hour vintage chronographs. Its finishing adheres to Breguet’s exacting standards: C‑finish on bridges, polished screws, and Geneva‑striped rotors, all of which contribute to the “joy to look at” that collectors have highlighted.
The fly‑back function works flawlessly; a single press of the pusher resets the chronograph instantly, a feature that harks back to Breguet’s aviation heritage. Accuracy is within the typical ± 3 seconds per day range for a modern automatic, and the movement’s high‑beat nature ensures a more stable rate compared to lower‑frequency calibers.
One point worth noting is that the caliber 728 is exclusive to the Type XX and its sibling, the Type 20, meaning that servicing will need to be performed at an authorized Breguet centre. While Breguet’s service network is extensive, the specialized nature of the movement could translate into higher long‑term maintenance costs.
## On the Wrist
The Type XX measures 42 mm in diameter with a lug‑to‑lug spread of approximately 48 mm, giving it a presence that sits comfortably between a classic dress chronograph and a modern sports piece. The steel bracelet, finished in the same polished tone as the case, is equipped with a micro‑adjustable clasp that allows for fine‑tuning of the fit—a welcome detail for those who prefer a snug, dress‑watch feel.
Wearing the watch reveals a balanced weight distribution; the steel case feels solid yet not oppressive, and the bracelet’s curvature follows the wrist naturally. The rotating bezel adds a tactile element that can be engaged without disturbing the chronograph’s operation, useful for timing laps or diversifying the watch’s utility beyond a simple stopwatch.
Comfort-wise, the watch is best suited for those comfortable with a 42 mm wristpiece. Critics have pointed out that “the case size, at 42 mm, is a bit too big for today’s standards (as opposed to the 38.3 mm original)”. For men with larger wrists the watch sits well, but on smaller wrists it may feel dominant. The luminescent hands and markers, combined with the sapphire caseback, make reading the time and the chronograph’s sub‑dial effortless in both bright daylight and dim environments.
## Value & Verdict
Breguet positions the Type XX as a flagship chronograph, and its price reflects that ambition. The brand’s official pricing list places the model around **$17,500 USD** (brand_models data). When compared to other high‑beat chronographs in the market—such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph (≈ $30,000) or the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (≈ $5,000)—the Type XX occupies a middle ground: it offers a unique blend of heritage design, a proprietary high‑beat movement, and a level of finishing that few competitors match at this price point.
The watch’s strengths are clear: a beautifully proportioned case that honours the original Type XX, a high‑beat caliber 728 that delivers both performance and visual appeal, and a functional rotating bezel that adds versatility. Its weaknesses are equally transparent: the date window that detracts from the dial’s purity, and a case size that may feel oversized for some contemporary tastes.
**Verdict:** The Breguet Type XX Chronograph is a compelling choice for collectors who value historical continuity and high‑beat engineering. If you can accept the modest design compromise of the date window and are comfortable with a 42 mm steel case, the watch offers a rewarding blend of classic aesthetics and modern performance that justifies its $17,500 price tag. For those seeking a more understated chronograph or a smaller wrist presence, the Type XX may feel a touch too assertive, but for anyone looking to own a piece that bridges Breguet’s storied past with today’s horological standards, it stands as a worthy—and genuinely enjoyable—investment.