Byredo Midnight Candy Review: A Sophisticated Nocturnal Gourmand
An in-depth exploration of Byredo's enigmatic and luxurious dark cherry and orris masterpiece.
In the ever-expanding cosmos of niche perfumery, certain creations arrive not merely as scents, but as complete narratives. They are olfactory short stories, evoking specific moments, moods, and memories with an almost preternatural clarity. Such is the case with Byredo’s Midnight Candy, a fragrance that, since its relatively recent inception, has managed to capture the imagination of connoisseurs and collectors alike. It is a composition that challenges the very definition of a “gourmand” fragrance, elevating it from the realm of the purely edible to that of the cerebral and the abstract, a hallmark of the Stockholm-based house founded by Ben Gorham in 2006.
Launched in 2021, Midnight Candy emerged into a world tentatively re-embracing the night. It was positioned not as a fleeting, playful confection, but as a sophisticated, almost melancholic exploration of sweetness shrouded in darkness. Within the meticulously curated Byredo lineup, known for its minimalist aesthetic and evocative storytelling (think Gypsy Water or Mojave Ghost), Midnight Candy represents a more daring, hedonistic chapter. It eschews the airy, clean compositions for which the brand is often celebrated, plunging instead into the depths of nocturnal indulgence. It is less about the candy itself and more about the memory of it—the clandestine treat enjoyed in the quiet solitude of a city after dark.
The conceptual framework for Midnight Candy is rooted in the Swedish tradition of “Lördagsgodis,” or “Saturday sweets,” a cultural ritual where children (and adults) are permitted a weekly indulgence in candy. Gorham, ever the master of recontextualizing personal memories into universal experiences, has twisted this innocent tradition into something far more adult and enigmatic. The inspiration is not the brightly lit candy store, but the lingering scent of sugar on one's fingertips under the cool glow of a streetlamp, a moment of private pleasure that is both comforting and faintly illicit. It is a scent designed for the shadows, for intimate encounters and quiet contemplation.
Its reputation within the fragrance community has been one of fascination and, at times, polarization. It is not an immediate crowd-pleaser in the conventional sense; rather, it demands a certain level of olfactory sophistication to fully appreciate its multifaceted development. For some, it is the ultimate dark gourmand, a perfect synthesis of sweetness and shadow. For others, its challenging juxtaposition of notes can be initially perplexing. Yet, it is precisely this complexity that has cemented its status as a cult favorite, a signature scent for those who prefer their luxury to whisper its presence rather than shout it.
The Nose Behind the Scent
Jérôme Epinette, a celebrated master perfumer at Robertet, is the nose behind this creation. He is responsible for many of Byredo's most iconic scents, including Bal d'Afrique and Gypsy Water, and is known for his ability to create luminous, balanced, and evocative compositions.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The initial impression is a captivating burst of dark, syrupy cherry, made complex and intriguing by the dry spice of pink pepper and the unusual, earthy tone of carrot seed. It is not a candy-like cherry, but rather the scent of a preserved maraschino cherry steeped in a fine liqueur, setting a sophisticated and mysterious tone.
The fragrance transitions into its profoundly luxurious heart as the cherry recedes, allowing the magnificent orris butter to unfurl. The scent transforms into a breathtakingly elegant, powdery cloud of iris and violet, dusted with the bitterness of dark cocoa powder. It feels like stepping into a dimly lit, velvet-lined room.
The final evolution is a long, slow descent into a warm, sensual embrace. The powderiness softens, melding into a creamy, smoky vanilla and a smooth suede. The patchouli and labdanum provide a solid, ambery foundation that hums on the skin for hours, creating an intimate and deeply comforting finish.
Performance Dashboard
Excellent endurance, lasting a solid 8-10 hours on skin and even longer on clothing.
Creates a moderate, alluring scent bubble of about arm's length for the first 2-3 hours before settling more intimately.
Leaves a refined and memorable trail that is noticeable but never overwhelming, drawing others in rather than announcing one's presence.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Exceptionally unique and artistic scent profile
- ✅ Superb quality of ingredients, particularly the orris butter
- ✅ Excellent longevity and elegant sillage
- ✅ Beautifully evolves on the skin over many hours
- ✅ Perfectly unisex, challenging traditional fragrance categories
- ❌ The premium price point places it in the luxury category
- ❌ Its complex, powdery nature can be polarizing
- ❌ Not a versatile, all-occasions fragrance
- ❌ Limited availability as a special release
Price & Value
“A worthwhile investment for the serious fragrance collector who values artistry, quality, and a unique signature scent. The performance and composition justify the cost.”
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The initial impression is one of sophisticated earthiness from the carrot and a refined, almost ethereal powderiness from the iris, hinting at the deeper complexity to come.
The heart unfurls with the opulent, indolic richness of Egyptian Jasmine, beautifully juxtaposed with the velvety, mysterious character of black violet, creating a darkly floral and sensuous core.
The fragrance settles into a luscious, creamy vanilla infusion, elegantly softened by the delicate, apricot-like nuances of osmanthus, leaving a sophisticated and lingering trail.
Performance Dashboard
Exceptional longevity, often lasting well over 12 hours on skin, a hallmark of the Extrait de Parfum concentration.
A pronounced projection that announces its presence gracefully for the initial hours, before settling into a more intimate, yet persistent aura.
A rich and enveloping sillage that leaves a memorable and luxurious trail.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Intensely rich and complex scent profile
- ✅ Superior longevity and sillage
- ✅ Exquisite floral and gourmand blend
- ✅ Highly concentrated, a little goes a long way
- ❌ Significant investment
- ❌ May be too intense for some
- ❌ Limited versatility for daytime wear
Price & Value
“The elevated price reflects the high concentration of precious oils and the extended performance characteristic of an Extrait de Parfum.”
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Unisex, ages 25-50
- Admirers of niche, artistic perfumery
- Individuals with a confident, introspective personality and a sophisticated sense of style
- Lovers of complex gourmand and iris-centric fragrances
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Those who prefer light, fresh, or aquatic scents
- Individuals seeking a very loud, room-filling fragrance
- Strictly daytime or high-heat environments
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares a similar dark, complex, and slightly gourmand DNA with a truffle-chocolate accord.
Features a prominent, powdery iris note, though presented in a more traditionally masculine, leathery context.
Another sophisticated gourmand that balances sweetness (tonka bean, cherry) with powdery and resinous elements.
For those who enjoy the dark cherry opening, though Lost Cherry is more boozy and less powdery.
💡 Clone Alternatives
An interpretation that aims to capture the dark cherry and orris heart at a more accessible price point.
Praised by users for its strong resemblance to the powdery, chocolatey, and vanilla facets of the drydown.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
Fans of complex, powdery vanilla and amber compositions will appreciate this historical masterpiece.
For those who wish to explore the aldehydic, classic side of the iris note.
Appeals to the same preference for rich, spicy, and sweet fragrances suitable for cold weather.
More from Byredo
🧪 Layering Ideas
- A simple, non-sweet sandalwood fragrance (like Le Labo Santal 33) to amplify the woody, creamy base.
- A single-note vanilla oil applied to pulse points before spraying to enhance the gourmand warmth of the drydown.
- A light spray of a dry gin or juniper scent (like Penhaligon's Juniper Sling) to brighten the opening for a surprising contrast.
🏆 Final Verdict
In a market saturated with fleeting trends and derivative creations, Byredo's Midnight Candy stands as a testament to the enduring power of thoughtful, narrative-driven perfumery. It is more than a mere gourmand; it is a complex, evolving work of art that challenges, comforts, and captivates in equal measure. The fragrance masterfully balances a sophisticated sweetness with a powdery, woody depth, creating a scent that feels both modern and timeless.
While the investment is considerable, as is typical for a house of Byredo's standing, the quality of the materials, the artistry of the composition, and the excellent performance justify the price for the serious fragrance aficionado. To purchase Midnight Candy is to acquire not just a bottle of perfume, but a key to a specific, beautifully rendered world—a world of quiet nocturnal indulgence and sophisticated pleasure. It is for the individual who understands that true luxury is not about being noticed by everyone, but about being unforgettable to the few who are invited to draw closer.