perfume

Chanel No 5 Eau Première (2015) Review: The Modern No. 5 Fact Check

By James Whitmore ·

Chanel No. 5. The name alone evokes timeless elegance. Launched in 1921, it wasn't just a perfume; it was a revolution. It broke from the single-flower scents of its era, presenting a complex, abstract bouquet that defined modern perfumery. But icons, even those as revered as No. 5, must evolve to remain relevant. This is where Chanel No. 5 Eau Première (2015) steps in.

Eau Première first launched in 2007, then saw a significant reformulation in 2015. This article focuses on the 2015 iteration, which is the version predominantly available today. Its market position is clear: to serve as a lighter, more luminous entry point into the No. 5 universe. Many find the original Eau de Parfum or Extrait too potent or 'mature' for daily wear. Eau Première aims to capture the essence of the classic while making it accessible to a broader, perhaps younger, audience without compromising its inherent sophistication. It bridges the gap between heritage and contemporary appeal.

The inspiration behind Eau Première is to retain the unmistakable DNA of No. 5 – the iconic aldehydes, the rich jasmine, the elegant rose, and creamy ylang-ylang – but to present it with a sunnier, airier perspective. Imagine the original No. 5, but bathed in soft, golden light. It’s less indolic, less animalic, and more transparent, allowing its floral heart to shine with a gentle radiance. The concept is to provide the 'first impression' or 'premier' experience of No. 5, stripped of its heavier, more opulent facets, revealing a bright, effervescent core.

In the fragrance community, Eau Première has garnered a strong reputation as a successful modernization. It is widely praised for making No. 5 approachable without diluting its legendary status. It’s seen as a sophisticated, versatile option for those who admire the original but seek something less demanding. Its cultural impact lies in demonstrating Chanel's ability to innovate within its most sacred legacy, proving that even a nearly century-old masterpiece can be reinterpreted for new generations while maintaining its aspirational allure.

The Nose Behind the Scent

Jacques Polge (original 2007 version) and Olivier Polge (2015 reformulation). Jacques Polge was Chanel's in-house perfumer for decades, creating many of their modern classics. Olivier Polge, his son, succeeded him in 2015 and refined this particular composition.

4.1 Overall
Longevity
4.0
Projection
3.5
Sillage
3.3
$100-$160 for 50ml; $130-$200 for 100ml
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Floral 40%
Aldehydic 25%
Powdery 15%
Citrus 10%
Woody 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
AldehydesNeroliYlang-YlangLemon
Heart
JasmineRoseIris (Orris Root)
Base
VetiverSandalwoodVanillaMusk

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The initial spray delivers a bright, sparkling burst. The aldehydes are prominent but softer, less sharp than in the original No. 5. They are quickly joined by a delicate, sweet neroli and the creamy, slightly banana-like richness of ylang-ylang. A hint of clean, zesty lemon provides an uplifting counterpoint, making the opening feel luminous and inviting, rather than imposing. It's an immediate, elegant lift.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the aldehydes settle, the floral heart takes center stage. Creamy jasmine, less indolic and more radiant than in the classic No. 5, blends seamlessly with the elegant, powdery rose. A subtle, sophisticated iris (orris root) emerges, contributing a soft, almost cosmetic powderiness that is refined and comforting. This phase maintains its brightness, feeling expansive and beautifully blended, a true modern white floral bouquet.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The drydown is where Eau Première truly distinguishes itself with its gentle warmth. The florals soften into a smooth, musky vanilla. The vanilla here is not overly sweet or gourmand; it's a refined, creamy sweetness that blends with clean musk. Hints of soft sandalwood and a very subtle, earthy vetiver provide a grounding, woody base without becoming heavy. The overall impression is one of clean, sophisticated comfort, a lingering elegant whisper.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 4.0/5

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première offers solid longevity, lasting between 7 to 9 hours on skin and often longer on clothing. It maintains its presence throughout the day or evening.

📢 Projection 3.5/5

The fragrance projects moderately, creating an arm's length aura for the first 2-3 hours. It's noticeable without being overwhelming, suitable for professional or intimate settings.

💨 Sillage 3.3/5

Sillage is soft to moderate, leaving a delicate, discernible trail. It's a scent that invites closeness rather than announcing itself from afar, embodying polite sophistication.

When to Wear

🌸SpringBest
☀️SummerAvoid
🍂FallBest
❄️WinterAvoid
📌 Office wear📌 Daytime events📌 Casual chic outings🎩 Formal events📌 Bridal/Wedding events📌 Everyday signature scent📌 Date nights

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.1
👃 Scent
4.3
⏱️ Longevity
3.9
💨 Sillage
3.5
💰 Value
3.0
💌 Compliment Factor 3.8/5

A solid compliment-getter, often praised for its elegant, clean, and sophisticated aroma. Compliments tend to come from those who appreciate classic perfumery, for its refined presence.

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ A successful, modern interpretation that makes the iconic No. 5 accessible and wearable for new generations.
  • ✅ Luminous, elegant, and sophisticated without being heavy, cloying, or perceived as dated.
  • ✅ Highly versatile, suitable for a wide range of occasions and seasons.
  • ✅ Offers good longevity for a lighter, more transparent Chanel No. 5 variant.
  • ✅ Less intimidating and more approachable than the original No. 5 Eau de Parfum or Extrait, serving as a perfect gateway scent.
  • ✅ Maintains the unmistakable quality and refined blending expected from Chanel.
  • ❌ Still perceived as 'mature' or 'classic' by some younger consumers accustomed to modern gourmands or fruity florals.
  • ❌ The premium price point is a barrier for many potential buyers, placing it firmly in the luxury category.
  • ❌ Not as bold, statement-making, or powerful as the original Chanel No. 5, which some purists might miss.

Price & Value

$100-$160 for 50ml; $130-$200 for 100ml
Luxury

“Worth the investment for consumers seeking a sophisticated, refined, and versatile everyday luxury, appreciating Chanel's unparalleled quality and heritage.”

📜 Reformulation History

The original Eau Première launched in 2007. The 2015 version is a reformulation, generally regarded as smoother and more refined. No widely reported significant batch variations within the 2015 formulation itself.

Who It's For

✅ Ideal For

  • Women aged 25 and up
  • Individuals with an elegant, refined, and sophisticated personal style
  • Those who appreciate classic fragrances but desire a lighter, more luminous interpretation
  • Consumers looking for a versatile signature scent that transitions from day to evening

⚠️ Not Recommended For

  • Those who prefer overtly sweet, gourmand, or trendy, youthful scents
  • Individuals seeking extremely bold, loud, or avant-garde fragrance profiles
  • People sensitive to aldehydic notes, though Eau Première's are softer

The Family

Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum Chanel

The iconic, richer, and more intense interpretation, closest to the original Parfum.

Chanel No. 5 Eau de Toilette Chanel

A brighter, greener, and often more citrusy take on the original, with a lighter feel.

Chanel No. 5 L'Eau Chanel

An even fresher, more vibrant, and minimalist interpretation, designed for a younger, more modern demographic.

Chanel No. 5 Parfum (Extrait) Chanel

The purest, most concentrated, and luxurious form of the original No. 5, offering unparalleled depth and longevity.

Explore More

🔍 Similar Fragrances

Estée Lauder White Linen Estée Lauder

Shares a crisp, clean, aldehydic floral profile, though White Linen is often perceived as sharper and more overtly soapy.

Lanvin Arpège Lanvin

Another classic aldehydic floral that offers a similar elegant, timeless, and complex bouquet with a rich, powdery drydown.

Van Cleef & Arpels First Van Cleef & Arpels

A rich, complex white floral aldehyde that provides a similar sense of classic luxury and sophistication, with a more pronounced green facet.

💡 Clone Alternatives

Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue Elizabeth Arden

Offers a bright, clean floral aldehyde profile with lily of the valley and lilac, providing a sophisticated, office-friendly scent at a significantly lower price point.

Revlon Charlie Blue Revlon

A vintage aldehydic floral with a distinct powdery, musky drydown. While more old-school in feel, it can evoke the classic aldehydic structure for those seeking a similar foundational experience on a budget.

❤️ You May Also Enjoy

Chanel No. 5 L'Eau Chanel

For those who enjoy Eau Première's modern take but desire an even fresher, more minimalist, and sparkling interpretation of No. 5.

Dior J'adore Eau de Parfum Dior

A radiant, opulent white floral that shares a sophisticated, ultra-feminine appeal and a clean, polished finish.

Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her Narciso Rodriguez

For its clean, elegant, and comforting musky drydown, offering a modern take on a sophisticated, understated scent.

Estée Lauder Beautiful Eau de Parfum Estée Lauder

Another grand, complex floral bouquet with a timeless feel, often chosen for its romantic and elegant character.

More from Chanel

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
Chanel Chance Eau Tendre Chanel
Chanel Allure Eau de Parfum Chanel
Chanel Gabrielle Essence Chanel

🧪 Layering Ideas

🏆 Final Verdict

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première (2015) is not just another flanker; it's a meticulously crafted modernization of a legend. It successfully distills the essence of the iconic Chanel No. 5 into a lighter, more luminous, and supremely wearable form. If you appreciate the heritage and sophistication of Chanel No. 5 but find the original too heavy or formal for everyday wear, Eau Première is your answer.

This fragrance offers elegance without effort. Its bright aldehydic opening, radiant floral heart, and soft, musky vanilla drydown create a scent profile that is both timeless and contemporary. It's versatile enough for the office, elegant enough for formal events, and comforting enough for a signature daily scent. You are investing in Chanel's unwavering commitment to quality and a piece of perfumery history, re-engineered for modern life. For those seeking a sophisticated, refined, and consistently beautiful fragrance that garners quiet appreciation, Chanel No. 5 Eau Première (2015) is a smart, luxurious purchase that delivers enduring class.

ChanelChanel No 5Eau PremiereLuxury FragranceAldehydic FloralModern ClassicWomen's PerfumeOlivier Polge