Perfume Review

Chanel NΒ°5 Eau de Parfum: The 100th Anniversary 'Ask For The Moon' Limited Edition - A Collector's Dream or Just a Glimmer?

By James Whitmore · · Updated

Chanel NΒ°5. The name alone conjures images of timeless elegance, groundbreaking perfumery, and a cultural icon that has defined feminine fragrance for a century. Launched in 1921, Ernest Beaux's masterpiece, commissioned by Gabrielle Chanel herself, revolutionized the industry with its abstract floral bouquet and audacious use of aldehydes. It wasn't just a scent; it was a statement, a departure from the heavy, single-note florals of the era, offering complexity and modernity. The NΒ°5 Eau de Parfum, a richer, warmer interpretation of the original EDT, arrived later, solidifying its place as a cornerstone of the Chanel fragrance empire. It embodies a sophisticated, confident femininity, a scent that has graced the vanity tables of generations and remains a benchmark in perfumery.

The 'Ask For The Moon' limited edition is a special release commemorating the 100th anniversary of this legendary fragrance. It's positioned as a highly collectible item, designed to appeal to both long-time aficionados and new admirers seeking a piece of olfactory history. While the core scent profile remains true to the Eau de Parfum, the 'Ask For The Moon' edition distinguishes itself through its exquisite presentation, aiming to elevate the experience beyond just the fragrance itself. This special release taps into the enduring legacy of NΒ°5, offering a unique opportunity to own a piece of its centennial celebration, a testament to its unparalleled cultural impact and its consistent presence at the pinnacle of the luxury fragrance market.

The inspiration behind this particular limited edition is as poetic as the fragrance itself. 'Ask For The Moon' evokes a sense of wonder, aspiration, and the unattainable beauty that Chanel has always represented. It plays on the romantic notion of reaching for the stars, a sentiment that aligns perfectly with the timeless allure of NΒ°5. The design of the bottle and packaging often reflects this celestial theme, transforming a familiar object into a piece of art. This edition seeks to capture the magic and mystery of the moon, translating it into a visual and olfactory experience that resonates with the dreamlike quality of the scent. It's about celebrating not just the fragrance, but the enduring mythos and aspirational spirit of the Chanel brand.

Chanel NΒ°5's reputation within the fragrance community is nothing short of legendary. It is revered for its pioneering use of aldehydes, which provide its signature effervescent opening, and its complex blend of floral notes, grounded by a rich, woody base. Its cultural impact is undeniable, appearing in art, film, and literature, becoming synonymous with luxury, sophistication, and French chic. While some modern noses might find it dated or too aldehydic, its historical significance and artistic merit are rarely disputed. The 'Ask For The Moon' edition, by its very nature, is designed to be a collector's item, a trophy for those who appreciate both the scent and the story it tells, adding another layer to its already rich narrative.

The Nose Behind the Scent

The original Chanel NΒ°5 was created by Ernest Beaux. The Eau de Parfum concentration was later refined and popularized by Jacques Polge, Chanel's in-house perfumer from 1978 to 2014. Polge is renowned for his ability to modernize classic structures while preserving brand heritage, and his work on NΒ°5 EDP is celebrated for its richness and warmth.

4.4 Overall
Longevity
4.5
Projection
3.8
Sillage
4.0
$180 - $250 USD for 100ml (Limited Edition)
🌸Springβ˜€οΈSummerπŸ‚Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Aldehydic 40%
Floral 30%
Powdery 15%
Woody 10%
Musky 5%

Notes Pyramid

Top
AldehydesNeroliYlang-YlangBergamotLemon
Heart
IrisJasmineRoseLily-of-the-ValleyOrris Root
Base
AmberSandalwoodVetiverMuskCivetVanillaPatchouli

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The opening is a dazzling, effervescent burst of aldehydes, sharp and clean, softened by the bright citrus of bergamot and lemon. Ylang-ylang adds a tropical sweetness, while neroli contributes a fresh floral facet, creating a bracing, abstract introduction.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the aldehydes recede, the heart unfolds into a rich floral bouquet. Powdery iris, creamy jasmine, classic rose, and delicate lily-of-the-valley create an opulent and deeply feminine core. Orris root lends a velvety, slightly earthy texture, enhancing the powdery feel.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The base offers a warm, sensual, and enduring foundation with creamy sandalwood, earthy vetiver, and musky warmth from civet. Vanilla and patchouli add depth and a touch of sweetness, while amber provides a resinous glow for a finish of refined elegance and lasting comfort.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 4.5/5

Exceptional longevity, typically lasting 8-12 hours on skin, with base notes persisting even longer.

πŸ“’ Projection 3.8/5

Moderate to strong projection, creating a noticeable scent bubble of 2-3 feet for the first few hours without being overwhelming.

πŸ’¨ Sillage 4.0/5

Excellent sillage, leaving a sophisticated and refined trail that is present and noticeable.

When to Wear

🌸SpringAvoid
β˜€οΈSummerAvoid
πŸ‚FallBest
❄️WinterBest

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.4
πŸ‘ƒ Scent
4.6
⏱️ Longevity
4.5
πŸ’¨ Sillage
4.0
πŸ’° Value
3.8

Pros & Cons

  • βœ… Timeless and iconic scent profile that never goes out of style.
  • βœ… Exceptional longevity, lasting through the day and into the night.
  • βœ… Elegant and sophisticated aura, perfect for making a refined statement.
  • βœ… The aldehydic opening is unique and instantly recognizable.
  • βœ… The limited edition packaging adds significant collector's value and aesthetic appeal.
  • ❌ The aldehydic opening can be polarizing for some noses.
  • ❌ May feel too mature or heavy for younger wearers or very warm climates.
  • ❌ Premium price point, especially for a limited edition.
  • ❌ Can be easily over-applied, leading to an overwhelming scent experience.

Price & Value

$180 - $250 USD for 100ml (Limited Edition)
Luxury (Collector's Item)

“Worth the investment for dedicated collectors and fans of NΒ°5 seeking its exclusive presentation. Standard EDP offers better value for scent experience alone.”

πŸ“œ Reformulation History

The 'Ask For The Moon' edition is a special presentation of the current Eau de Parfum formulation. While NΒ°5 has seen subtle reformulations over time due to regulations and ingredient availability, the core DNA remains consistent. Modern versions may be less animalic and have adjusted aldehyde levels compared to vintage formulations.

4.0 Overall
Longevity
3.5
Projection
3.0
Sillage
3.2
$125-165 for 100ml
🌸Springβ˜€οΈSummerπŸ‚Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Woody 30%
Powdery 25%
Aldehydic 20%
Fresh 15%
Floral 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
AldehydesYlang-YlangNeroliBergamotLemon
Heart
IrisJasmineRoseOrris RootLily-of-the-Valley
Base
CivetSandalwoodMuskOakmossVetiverAmberVanillaPatchouli

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The initial impression is dominated by a bright, sparkling burst of aldehydes and fresh citrus notes, feeling lighter and more effervescent than the EDP.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the top notes soften, a powdery floral heart of iris, jasmine, and rose emerges. This phase is less dense and rich compared to the EDP, with a cleaner, soapier character.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The base develops with a more pronounced woody and earthy character, featuring sandalwood, oakmoss, and vetiver. It's a drier, less sweet finish than the vanilla-heavy drydown of the EDP.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 3.5/5

Lasts 6-8 hours, which is less than the EDP.

πŸ“’ Projection 3.0/5

Moderate projection for the first 1-2 hours before becoming a more intimate scent.

πŸ’¨ Sillage 3.2/5

Leaves a lighter, more subtle trail compared to the EDP.

When to Wear

🌸SpringBest
β˜€οΈSummerOK
πŸ‚FallBest
❄️WinterOK

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.0
πŸ‘ƒ Scent
4.2
⏱️ Longevity
3.5
πŸ’¨ Sillage
3.4
πŸ’° Value
3.9

Pros & Cons

  • βœ… Lighter and more versatile for daytime wear
  • βœ… Brighter, fresher opening
  • βœ… Less overpowering than the EDP
  • βœ… Prominent woody and earthy notes in the drydown
  • ❌ Shorter longevity and softer sillage
  • ❌ Less rich and opulent than the EDP
  • ❌ Can have a sharper, soapier quality
  • ❌ May be perceived as less complex

Price & Value

$125-165 for 100ml
Premium

“Slightly lower price than the EDP, reflecting its lighter concentration and performance.”

πŸ“œ Reformulation History

The 'Ask For The Moon' 100th Anniversary edition from 2021 featured limited-edition packaging. The scent composition is consistent with the standard Eau de Toilette formulation.

4.8 Overall
Longevity
5.0
Projection
3.5
Sillage
3.0
Extremely high due to limited edition status; standard Parfum is typically $300-$450 for 15-30ml.
🌸Springβ˜€οΈSummerπŸ‚Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Woody 35%
Floral 30%
Powdery 25%
Aldehydic 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
AldehydesYlang-YlangNeroliBergamotLemon
Heart
IrisJasmineRoseOrris RootLily-of-the-Valley
Base
CivetAmberSandalwoodMuskMossVanillaVetiverPatchouli

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The initial impression is a bright, effervescent burst of aldehydes and citrus, but immediately grounded by the rich, sensual warmth of ylang-ylang and a dusky amber quality, making it feel deeper and more complex than the EDP from the start.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

The heart is an opulent, seamlessly blended bouquet of the highest quality florals, particularly May rose and jasmine from Grasse. The iris and orris root provide a rich, powdery texture that feels plush and luxurious, less sharp and more rounded than the EDP's heart.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The base is where the Extrait truly distinguishes itself. It settles into a warm, sensual skin scent. The sandalwood and vanilla provide a creamy sweetness, while moss, vetiver, and rich musks create a soft, caressing, and incredibly long-lasting finish that is more intimate than the EDP.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 5.0/5

Lasts 12+ hours. The high concentration of oils makes it meld with the skin for exceptional duration.

πŸ“’ Projection 3.5/5

Moderate projection for 2-3 hours. It is less loud than the EDP, creating a more personal and intimate scent bubble.

πŸ’¨ Sillage 3.0/5

Soft trail. The Parfum is designed to be discovered up close, rather than to announce its presence across a room.

When to Wear

🌸SpringOK
β˜€οΈSummerAvoid
πŸ‚FallBest
❄️WinterBest

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.8
πŸ‘ƒ Scent
4.9
⏱️ Longevity
5.0
πŸ’¨ Sillage
3.5
πŸ’° Value
3.5

Pros & Cons

  • βœ… Deepest and richest expression of the No. 5 DNA
  • βœ… Exceptional longevity as a skin scent
  • βœ… Most complex and nuanced scent evolution
  • βœ… Collector's item with unique packaging
  • ❌ Significantly higher price point
  • ❌ Softer projection and sillage
  • ❌ Less versatile for different occasions and climates
  • ❌ Can be too mature or heavy for some tastes

Price & Value

Extremely high due to limited edition status; standard Parfum is typically $300-$450 for 15-30ml.
Collector's Item

“The price reflects its status as a collector's piece and the highest concentration of the fragrance. Justified for purists and collectors, not for casual buyers.”

πŸ“œ Reformulation History

As a single limited edition release for the 100th anniversary in 2021, there are no known batch variations.

4.3 Overall
Longevity
3.8
Projection
3.5
Sillage
3.3
$160-190 for 100ml
🌸Springβ˜€οΈSummerπŸ‚Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Aldehydic 35%
Floral 30%
Powdery 20%
Woody 15%

Notes Pyramid

Top
AldehydesYlang-YlangNeroli
Heart
JasmineRose
Base
VanillaSandalwoodVetiver

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

A brighter, softer, and more sparkling version of the classic aldehydes. Luminous and airy, less sharp than the EDP, with ylang-ylang and neroli creating a gentle, sunny introduction.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the aldehydes recede, a radiant and simplified floral heart emerges. Features creamy jasmine and powdery rose, presented in a more transparent and less dense manner than the original.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

A smooth, warm, and gentle finish. The base is a creamy blend of vanilla and sandalwood with a touch of vetiver, offering a soft, musky, and comforting warmth without the heavy animalic or earthy notes of the EDP.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 3.8/5

Lasts 6-8 hours; longevity can be inconsistent for some users compared to the EDP.

πŸ“’ Projection 3.5/5

Moderate projection for the first 2-3 hours, creating an arm's length scent bubble.

πŸ’¨ Sillage 3.3/5

Soft to moderate sillage; leaves a delicate, inviting trail rather than a powerful one.

When to Wear

🌸SpringBest
β˜€οΈSummerOK
πŸ‚FallBest
❄️WinterOK

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.3
πŸ‘ƒ Scent
4.4
⏱️ Longevity
3.8
πŸ’¨ Sillage
3.5
πŸ’° Value
3.2

Pros & Cons

  • βœ… Lighter, more modern interpretation
  • βœ… Highly versatile for day or night
  • βœ… Elegant and sophisticated without being heavy
  • βœ… Excellent gateway to the No. 5 family
  • ❌ Lacks the depth and complexity of the EDP
  • ❌ Longevity and sillage are softer
  • ❌ Premium price point
  • ❌ Still perceived as 'classic' or 'mature' by some

Price & Value

$160-190 for 100ml
Premium

“A luxury price for a more modern and versatile, but less potent, version of the icon.”

πŸ“œ Reformulation History

The fragrance was first launched in 2008 and then reformulated and repackaged in the classic bottle shape in 2015. The 2015 version is often described as being slightly warmer and more focused on vanilla in the drydown compared to the original release.

4.2 Overall
Longevity
3.2
Projection
2.8
Sillage
2.5
$160-180 for 100ml
🌸Springβ˜€οΈSummerπŸ‚Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Citrus 40%
Aldehydic 30%
Floral 20%
Musky 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
AldehydesLemonLimeMandarin OrangeOrangeNeroliBergamot
Heart
Ylang-YlangJasmineMay Rose
Base
White MuskOrris RootCedarVanilla

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

Bright, effervescent citrus explosion dominated by lemon and mandarin, lifted by the classic aldehydes but in a much lighter, sparklier way than the EDP.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

A transparent, airy floral heart emerges, focusing on fresh May Rose and clean jasmine. It's less dense and powdery compared to the EDP's rich bouquet.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

A soft, clean finish of white musk and a hint of cedar. The base is significantly lighter and simpler, lacking the heavy amber, sandalwood, and animalic notes of the EDP.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 3.2/5

Lasts 4-6 hours

πŸ“’ Projection 2.8/5

Soft to moderate projection for 1-2 hours, becomes a skin scent afterwards.

πŸ’¨ Sillage 2.5/5

Light trail, noticeable only up close.

When to Wear

🌸SpringBest
β˜€οΈSummerBest
πŸ‚FallOK
❄️WinterAvoid

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.2
πŸ‘ƒ Scent
4.6
⏱️ Longevity
3.5
πŸ’¨ Sillage
3.3
πŸ’° Value
3.5

Pros & Cons

  • βœ… Modern and fresh interpretation
  • βœ… Much more versatile for daily and office wear
  • βœ… Bright, uplifting citrus opening
  • βœ… Easier entry point to the No. 5 DNA
  • ❌ Significantly weaker longevity
  • ❌ Lacks the depth and complexity of the EDP
  • ❌ Softer projection and sillage
  • ❌ Can be too light for fans of the original

Price & Value

$160-180 for 100ml
Premium

“Price is for the brand and limited edition bottle; performance is significantly lighter than the similarly priced EDP.”

Who It's For

βœ… Ideal For

  • Women aged 30+ who appreciate classic, sophisticated, and timeless fragrances.
  • Individuals with a confident, elegant, and refined personality.
  • Those who view fragrance as an extension of personal style and value artistry in perfumery.

⚠️ Not Recommended For

  • Younger individuals (under 25) who may prefer modern, sweet, or fresh scents.
  • Those sensitive to aldehydes or powdery notes.
  • Individuals seeking a light, casual scent for very warm weather or high-intensity environments.

The Family

Chanel NΒ°5 Eau de Toilette Chanel

A lighter, more citrus-forward version of the original.

Chanel NΒ°5 Parfum (Extrait) Chanel

The most concentrated and richest interpretation, with a more intense powdery and floral profile.

Chanel NΒ°5 L'Eau Chanel

A modern, airy, and fresh interpretation with a focus on citrus and white musk.

Chanel NΒ°5 Eau Premiere Chanel

A softer, more luminous version with a prominent vanilla and almond note.

Explore More

πŸ” Similar Fragrances

Guerlain Shalimar Guerlain

Iconic oriental with powdery and vanilla notes, sharing a classic, complex profile.

Dior J'adore EDP Dior

A sophisticated floral bouquet with a radiant quality, offering a more modern take on floral elegance.

Rochas Madame Rochas Rochas

A classic aldehydic floral with a similar effervescent opening and powdery heart.

EstΓ©e Lauder White Linen EstΓ©e Lauder

Features prominent aldehydes and a clean, crisp floral structure for a fresher aldehydic experience.

πŸ’‘ Clone Alternatives

Maison Alhambra Woody Oud Maison Alhambra

Some users detect a sophisticated aldehydic-floral facet evoking a classic feel, though not a direct clone.

Milton Lloyd Colour Me Gold Milton Lloyd

Offers a general classic floral-powdery vibe that some find reminiscent of NΒ°5's powdery drydown, albeit simpler.

❀️ You May Also Enjoy

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For those who appreciate a powdery, iris-centric, and melancholic floral beauty.

LancΓ΄me La Vie Est Belle LancΓ΄me

For those who appreciate a sophisticated, albeit sweeter, modern floral.

Christian Dior Miss Dior (Original/Eau de Parfum) Dior

For a classic chypre floral with enduring elegance.

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Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
Chanel Bleu de Chanel Chanel
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πŸ§ͺ Layering Ideas

πŸ† Final Verdict

The Chanel NΒ°5 Eau de Parfum 'Ask For The Moon' Limited Edition is more than just a fragrance; it's a collectible piece of history. If you are a devoted admirer of Chanel NΒ°5, a collector of rare and beautifully presented fragrances, or someone who cherishes iconic scents with unparalleled heritage, this edition is a must-have. The scent itself is the timeless, elegant Eau de Parfum that has captivated generations, offering a complex aldehydic-floral bouquet with a warm, powdery, and woody drydown. The "Ask For The Moon" packaging transforms the iconic bottle into a celestial work of art, making it a stunning display piece. While the standard EDP provides the same scent experience at a more accessible price, this limited edition offers an elevated, exclusive way to celebrate a century of olfactory legend. It's an investment in artistry, history, and the enduring allure of one of the world's most famous fragrances.

ChanelChanel NΒ°5Limited Edition FragranceNiche PerfumeDesigner FragranceWomen's PerfumeAldehydic FragranceFloral PerfumeCollector's Item