The Resurrection of an Icon
In the world of luxury, there are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that define an era. When Chanel released the Première in 1987, it wasn't just a new product launch; it was the birth of a new philosophy. Jacques Helleu, the man who shaped the visual identity of Chanel for decades, famously said he wanted a design that was 'fresh, new, and surprising.' By taking the octagonal shape of the N°5 bottle stopper—itself a tribute to the geometry of the Place Vendôme—and pairing it with the signature chain of the 2.55 handbag, he created a visual synecdoche for the entire House of Chanel.
Fast forward to today, and the reference H7022, the Première Édition Originale, has reclaimed its spot at the center of the cultural zeitgeist. In an age where 'quiet luxury' and 'vintage-coded' accessories dominate our feeds, the H7022 is the ultimate flex. It doesn't scream with diamonds or oversized cases. Instead, it whispers of Parisian heritage and effortless chic. At Vivir, we’ve seen a massive shift in the market—young collectors are moving away from the bulky professional divers of their fathers and toward pieces that offer a more nuanced, jewelry-forward expression of time.
Design Language: Architecture on the Wrist
The genius of the H7022 lies in its proportions. The case measures 26.1 x 20 mm, a size that feels remarkably contemporary despite its 1980s roots. The emerald-cut sapphire crystal is the star of the show here. It creates a depth that draws the eye into the black lacquer dial, which is notably devoid of numerals, indices, or even a second hand. This 'less is more' approach is a bold statement in horology—it suggests that for the Chanel woman, time is not something to be measured in seconds, but in moments.
The case is crafted from steel and coated with 18K yellow gold. While some purists might clamor for solid gold, the plating allows for a price point that is accessible to the 'trust-fund-baby' demographic while maintaining the weight and luster of a precious metal. The crown is set with an onyx cabochon, a subtle nod to the black-and-gold color palette that Coco Chanel herself championed.
The Bracelet: A Handbag for Your Arm
Perhaps the most recognizable element of the H7022 is its bracelet. The intertwined leather and gold-plated chain is a direct descendant of the strap found on the 2.55 flap bag. This isn't just a stylistic choice; it's a masterclass in brand synergy. When you wear the Première, you aren't just wearing a watch; you're wearing a piece of the Chanel fashion legacy. The way the leather softens over time and conforms to the wrist makes it one of the most comfortable 'bracelets' in the industry. It doesn't pinch, it doesn't pull, and it has a kinetic quality that makes it feel alive as you move.
The clasp is equally clever. It’s a simple T-bar style locking cover that integrates seamlessly into the chain. There is no bulky folding buckle to ruin the lines of the jewelry. It’s discreet, secure, and incredibly satisfying to click into place.
The Quartz Debate: Why It Doesn't Matter
Let’s address the elephant in the room: the movement. The H7022 is powered by a high-precision Swiss quartz movement. In certain horological circles, 'quartz' is a dirty word. But at Vivir, we argue that for this specific watch, quartz is the only logical choice. A mechanical movement would require a thicker case, destroying the delicate proportions that make the Première so successful. Furthermore, the target audience for this watch values grab-and-go convenience. They want a watch that is always accurate, always ready, and doesn't require a winding box. The Première is a piece of art first and a machine second.
Culture and the 'Jennie Effect'
You cannot talk about the H7022 without talking about its impact on pop culture. When Jennie Kim of BLACKPINK was spotted wearing the Première, search volume for the reference spiked by over 200%. This is the new reality of watch collecting—influence is driven by the intersection of high fashion and global stardom. The H7022 has become the 'It-Girl' watch because it fits perfectly into the modern wardrobe. It looks just as good with a vintage Chanel tweed jacket as it does with a simple white T-shirt and jeans. It’s the ultimate 'high-low' accessory.
Investment and Market Value
At a retail price of nearly $6,000, the H7022 is a significant investment. However, unlike many fashion-branded watches that lose 50% of their value the moment you leave the boutique, the Première holds its own. The 'Édition Originale' status gives it a level of permanence. On the pre-owned market, well-maintained examples are trading close to retail, and vintage H0001 references (the original 1987 version) are seeing a resurgence in value at boutique auctions like Sotheby’s and Christie’s. If you’re looking for a watch that will still be stylish in twenty years, this is a safer bet than almost any other watch in its price bracket.
Final Thoughts
The Chanel Première Iconic Chain H7022 is a triumph of design over technicality. It proves that a watch doesn't need a tourbillon or a perpetual calendar to be a masterpiece. It only needs to understand its own identity. For the sophisticated collector who values style, heritage, and the sheer joy of a beautiful object, the H7022 is a mandatory addition to the collection. It is, quite simply, the most beautiful watch Chanel has ever made.
