# L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue Review Chopard’s L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue is the brand’s newest ultra‑thin offering from the storied L.U.C collection, introduced to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. At first glance the watch feels like a modern classic: a 40 mm Lucent Steel™ case that sits on the wrist at a whisper‑thin 7.2 mm, a deep‑blue sunburst dial that catches the light, and a supple brown calf‑skin strap that adds a touch of understated luxury. Under the polished exterior lies the L.U.C 96.12‑L self‑winding calibre, a COSC‑certified chronometer with a 65‑hour power reserve. In this review we’ll break down the design, the movement, the wearing experience, and finally ask whether the price‑point makes sense for a watch that is as much a piece of engineering as it is a dress accessory. --- ## Design & Case | Specification | Detail | |---------------|--------| | **Case size** | 40 mm diameter | | **Thickness** | 7.2 mm (ultra‑thin) | | **Material** | Lucent Steel™ (a proprietary, highly polished stainless‑steel alloy) | | **Dial** | Prussian Blue sector dial with sunburst satin finish | | **Strap** | Brown calf‑skin leather (reference 168629‑3002) | | **Water‑resistance** | 30 m (3 atm) | | **Reference** | 168629‑3002 | The case’s proportions are the watch’s strongest visual asset. A 40 mm diameter is a sweet spot for most wrists, and the 7.2 mm thickness keeps the profile sleek enough to slide under a shirt cuff without bulging. Lucent Steel™ gives the case a mirror‑like sheen that reflects the dial’s deep blue hue, while the polished finish resists fingerprints better than a typical brushed steel. The dial is a study in restrained drama. The “Prussian Blue” sector is treated with a satin sunburst finish that reveals a subtle play of light as the wearer moves. There are no applied hour markers; instead, the hour indices are delicately applied in a contrasting tone, preserving the dial’s clean aesthetic. The hands are also finished in a matching blue, and a discreet date window sits at the 3 o’clock position, keeping the face uncluttered. The brown calf‑skin strap adds warmth to the cool metal and blue dial, and its tapered shape follows the case’s thinness, preventing the watch from looking top‑heavy. However, the strap is not interchangeable without a professional tool, which may limit personalization for owners who like to swap straps frequently. --- ## Movement & Performance | Specification | Detail | |---------------|--------| | **Calibre** | L.U.C 96.12‑L (self‑winding, automatic) | | **Chronometer** | COSC‑certified (± 4 s/day) | | **Power reserve** | 65 hours | | **Special features** | Stop‑seconds mechanism, ultra‑thin architecture | The heart of the L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue is the L.U.C 96.12‑L, a direct evolution of Chopard’s first in‑house movement from 1996. The calibre is deliberately thin—its architecture allows the entire watch to stay under 8 mm while still housing a full‑plate main wheel train, a balance wheel with a Breguet over‑coil, and a stop‑seconds function that lets the wearer set the time with precision. COSC certification guarantees that the movement stays within ± 4 seconds per day, a benchmark that places this watch firmly in the chronometer class. In everyday wear the watch has proven to be reliably accurate, with most owners reporting sub‑second variance after a few days of settling. The 65‑hour power reserve is generous for an ultra‑thin calibre; a full wind will keep the watch running through a weekend without needing a reset. The only performance compromise comes from the thin case itself. To achieve 7.2 mm thickness, the movement’s balance spring is slightly shorter than on a thicker L.U.C model, which can make the watch marginally more sensitive to shocks. While Chopard’s proprietary shock‑absorption system mitigates this, owners should still avoid hard impacts—something to keep in mind given the modest 30 m water resistance, which is adequate for rain and hand‑washing but not for swimming or diving. --- ## On the Wrist The L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue feels surprisingly light for a 40 mm steel watch, thanks to the thin case and the leather strap’s flexibility. Lug‑to‑lug measurement is not published, but the 7.2 mm thickness translates into a comfortable wrist coverage; the watch sits low on the hand, reducing the “cuff‑bump” that can occur with bulkier dress pieces. The brown calf‑skin strap conforms quickly to the wearer’s wrist shape, offering a soft, almost glove‑like feel after a short break‑in period. The strap’s tapered ends keep the watch from looking overly large on smaller wrists, yet the 40 mm case still commands a presence that is unmistakably luxury. Because the watch is ultra‑thin, it pairs exceptionally well with formal attire—tucked under a shirt cuff, it adds a refined sparkle without drawing attention away from the outfit. On casual wear, the leather strap can feel a bit formal, so a second strap (e.g., a NATO or rubber band) would be a welcome optional accessory, but that would require a professional change. The only downside on the wrist is the limited water resistance. A splash of rain is harmless, but a sudden downpour or accidental submersion could jeopardize the movement’s thin bridges. For owners who need a more robust everyday piece, this watch leans toward the “special‑occasion” end of the spectrum. --- ## Value & Verdict Chopard does not publish an exact MSRP for the L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue, but the broader L.U.C XPS line is positioned around **US $19,400** (as per the reference model 161948‑5002). Given the calibre’s in‑house development, COSC certification, and the ultra‑thin case engineering, the price aligns with comparable ultra‑thin dress watches from other high‑end manufacturers (e.g., Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin, Piaget Altiplano). **Pros** * Ultra‑thin 7.2 mm case that stays elegant under a cuff * Beautiful Prussian‑Blue sunburst dial that ages gracefully * In‑house L.U.C 96.12‑L movement with 65‑hour reserve and COSC certification * High‑quality Lucent Steel™ and calf‑skin strap **Cons** * Modest 30 m water resistance limits everyday practicality * Fixed leather strap reduces personalization options * Thin case can be more susceptible to shock compared with thicker counterparts **Verdict** The L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue is a masterclass in minimalist luxury. Its design is timeless, its movement is a testament to Chopard’s 30‑year manufacturing heritage, and the watch wears like a piece of art rather than a tool. For collectors who value ultra‑thin aesthetics, in‑house chronometer performance, and a striking blue dial, the watch justifies its premium price tag. However, the watch is not a universal everyday companion. Its limited water resistance and delicate construction mean it should be reserved for dress occasions or careful daily wear. If you can accept those constraints, the L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue stands as one of the most refined ultra‑thin dress watches on the market today—a true celebration of Chopard’s three‑decade watchmaking journey.