De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT – A Dual‑Face Masterpiece Reviewed
By Vivir Editorial··Updated
# De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT – A Dual‑Face Masterpiece Reviewed
The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT arrives as a bold statement from De Bethune, a brand that has spent the last two decades redefining what a haute‑horlogerie case can look like. Launched in 2022 under reference DBK2V1S8, the watch pairs a contemporary “future” dial with a classic “heritage” face, each accessible by a single, fluid flip of the case. The concept is simple yet daring: give the wearer two distinct personalities in one wrist‑mounted object, and let the mechanical heart—a hand‑wound Calibre DB2517— keep both sides ticking with impeccable precision. In a market saturated with reversible watches that often sacrifice depth for gimmickry, De Bethune’s execution feels both technically rigorous and aesthetically refined. Below we break down how the piece fits into the brand’s lineage, what it looks and feels like, how it performs, and whether its CHF 195,000 price tag is justified.
## Heritage — the model's place in the brand's line and its launch context
De Bethune has built its reputation on avant‑garde materials, floating lugs, and a willingness to experiment with case architecture. Since its founding, the maison has introduced several “Kind of Two” models, each exploring the notion of duality. The first of the series, the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon (2021), offered a contemporary tourbillon‑driven face opposite a hand‑guilloché classic dial, both housed in an ultra‑light grade 5 titanium case measuring 42.8 mm. The Jumping GMT follows that precedent, arriving a year later with a slightly larger 43.3 mm case and a different complication set: a jumping seconds indicator and a GMT function.
Both watches share the hallmark “double‑face” concept, but the Jumping GMT distinguishes itself by focusing on time‑zone versatility rather than a tourbillon’s visual drama. Its launch in 2022 placed it squarely in a period when De Bethune was expanding its portfolio of limited‑edition, technically ambitious pieces, reinforcing the brand’s reputation for marrying cutting‑edge engineering with sculptural design. The model is limited to a “human‑scale” production run, a phrase De Bethune uses to signal that the watch is intended for collectors who value rarity as much as innovation.
## Design & Case — case dimensions, materials, dial
The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT is housed in a 43.3 mm grade 5 titanium case—an alloy prized for its strength‑to‑weight ratio and a silvery‑gray finish that ages gracefully. The case features De Bethune’s signature floating lugs, which appear to hover without visible attachment, a design language that has become synonymous with the brand’s aesthetic. The case is reversible: a quick, precise flip exposes either the “future” side or the “classic” side, each with its own dial treatment.
The contemporary face showcases a clean, minimal layout with a jumping seconds sub‑dial positioned at 9 o’clock and a GMT hand that sweeps around a 24‑hour ring. The jumping seconds mechanism provides a distinctive, staccato visual cue that emphasizes the watch’s mechanical nature. The classic side, by contrast, embraces a more traditional look with a hand‑guilloché pattern, Breguet‑style hands, and Arabic numerals, offering a timeless elegance that would feel at home in a formal setting.
Both dials are protected by sapphire crystal, though the source does not specify whether the crystal is domed or flat; the overall thickness of the watch remains modest, preserving a sleek profile despite the dual‑dial architecture. The watch is presented on an alligator strap with an alligator lining, and the pin buckle is polished grade 5 titanium, reinforcing the cohesive material palette. Water resistance is rated at 3 ATM (30 m), sufficient for everyday wear but not intended for aquatic activities.
## Movement & Performance — caliber, power reserve, accuracy
At the heart of the Jumping GMT lies De Bethune’s in‑house Calibre DB2517, a manual‑winding mechanical movement. The calibre measures 30 mm in diameter and operates at a frequency of 5 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), a rate that balances smooth hand motion with energy efficiency. Its most notable specifications are a 4‑day (96‑hour) power reserve and the inclusion of a jumping seconds complication—a feature that, while visually striking, also demands precise regulation.
The movement is hand‑wound, meaning the wearer must wind the crown regularly to maintain power; this aligns with the brand’s ethos of encouraging an intimate, tactile relationship between the owner and the watch. The source material does not provide an official accuracy rating (e.g., COSC certification), so we cannot comment on the watch’s chronometric performance beyond the fact that De Bethune’s in‑house calibres are generally finished to high standards. The GMT function operates via an additional hand that indicates a second time zone, while the jumping seconds sub‑dial provides an instantaneous visual cue each second, adding both functional utility and kinetic interest.
## On the Wrist — wearability, lug‑to‑lug, comfort notes
Wearing a reversible watch introduces unique ergonomic considerations. The floating lugs on the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT give the case a slightly “floating” feel on the wrist, reducing the visual bulk that traditional lug attachments can create. While the exact lug‑to‑lug measurement is not disclosed in the source material, the 43.3 mm diameter places the watch in the larger‑end of the modern gentleman’s spectrum, making it a noticeable but not overwhelming presence.
The alligator strap, paired with a polished titanium pin buckle, adds a touch of luxury while providing a secure fit. Alligator leather tends to conform to the wearer’s wrist over time, offering a comfortable, custom‑fit experience. The reversible case means the wearer can choose which dial faces outward, allowing for a quick aesthetic shift without removing the watch—a practical advantage for those who transition between casual and formal environments throughout the day.
One limitation is the 30 m water resistance rating; the watch should be removed before swimming, showering, or exposure to heavy rain. Additionally, as a manual‑winding piece, the wearer must remember to wind it regularly—typically once every day or two—to avoid power reserve depletion, especially if the GMT function is engaged for extended periods.
## When to Wear — occasion, setting and dress‑code fit
The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT is designed for the collector who appreciates both technical ingenuity and sartorial flexibility. The classic dial side, with its hand‑guilloché finish and Arabic numerals, pairs effortlessly with formal attire—think tuxedos, tailored suits, or black‑tie events—where a traditional aesthetic is expected. Conversely, the contemporary side, with its clean lines, jumping seconds, and GMT complication, feels at home under a blazer in a business‑casual setting or even with a smart‑casual weekend outfit.
Because the case can be flipped in seconds, the wearer can adapt to the dress code of a meeting, a dinner, or a flight without swapping watches. The GMT function is particularly useful for frequent travelers, allowing a second time zone to be monitored discreetly. However, the watch’s size and premium strap may be too bold for very small wrists or ultra‑casual environments like a beach or a gym. In those contexts, the watch would be better suited to a more subdued strap or a different, less ostentatious piece.
## Value & Verdict — price‑positioning + final take
Priced at CHF 195,000 (approximately US $210,000 at contemporary exchange rates), the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT sits firmly in the haute‑horlogerie tier, competing with the most exclusive offerings from brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. The price reflects several factors: the limited production run, the in‑house calibre with a 4‑day power reserve, the dual‑dial engineering, and the use of premium materials like grade 5 titanium and alligator leather.
From a value perspective, the watch delivers on its promises: a technically sophisticated manual movement, a reversible case that truly offers two distinct looks, and a high‑quality finishing that is unmistakably De Bethune. The lack of disclosed accuracy data or a formal chronometer certification leaves a small gap for the most demanding collectors, but the brand’s reputation for meticulous finishing mitigates this concern for most buyers.
The primary trade‑off is practicality. The 30 m water resistance limits everyday robustness, and the manual winding requirement demands regular attention. For owners who relish the ritual of winding and who appreciate the ability to switch dial personalities on the fly, these are minor inconveniences.
**Verdict:** The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT is a compelling blend of artistry and engineering that lives up to De Bethune’s reputation for pushing design boundaries. Its reversible case, elegant dual dials, and robust hand‑wound calibre make it a standout in the niche of dual‑face watches. While the price is undeniably high and the water resistance modest, the piece offers a rare combination of aesthetic versatility and mechanical intrigue that will satisfy collectors seeking both visual drama and horological depth. For those who view a watch as an extension of personal style as much as a time‑telling instrument, the Jumping GMT merits serious consideration.