# De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar – A Modern Classic Refined When De Bethune announced the return of the DB25 in a smaller, 40 mm guise, the watch world held its breath. The original DB25 had become something of a cult object, admired for its audacious size and the way it married a futuristic aesthetic with a serious horological agenda. In 2022 the Swiss maison delivered a version that kept the soul of the piece—its perpetual calendar, spherical moon‑phase and unmistakable silhouette—while shedding a few centimeters and embracing a more wearable scale. The result is a watch that feels both intimate and monumental, a kinetic sculpture that lives on the wrist as much as it lives on the display case. Priced at roughly $145 000 and limited to just 15 pieces a year, the DB25 Perpetual Calendar is not a casual acquisition, but for those who value rarity, engineering, and a design language that refuses to be merely decorative, it makes a compelling case. --- ## Heritage — the model's place in the brand's line and its launch context De Bethune entered the haute horology arena in the late 1990s, quickly distinguishing itself with a penchant for avant‑garde case architecture, patented “spherical” dial treatments and a relentless pursuit of technical novelty. The DB25 line first appeared as a statement piece that pushed the limits of size and complication density, cementing the brand’s reputation for “big‑watch” bravura. In 2022 the house revisited that legacy with the DB25 Perpetual Calendar (reference DB25sQPATIS13), deliberately downsizing the case to 40 mm while preserving the core complications: a perpetual calendar and a spherical moon‑phase. This move was not a concession to market trends but a strategic refinement—De Bethune wanted a model that could transition from the boardroom to a cocktail bar without sacrificing its signature visual impact. The launch coincided with a broader industry shift toward more wearable dimensions, yet De Bethune resisted the temptation to dilute its design DNA. By limiting production to 15 units per year, the DB25 Perpetual Calendar re‑asserts the brand’s commitment to exclusivity and artisanal craftsmanship. It sits at the apex of De Bethune’s dress‑watch tier, alongside other high‑complication pieces, and serves as a bridge between the brand’s experimental past and its forward‑looking aspirations. --- ## Design & Case — case dimensions, materials, dial At first glance the DB25 Perpetual Calendar commands attention through contrast rather than sheer size. The 40 mm case—measured from bezel edge to edge—is crafted from grade 5 titanium, a material De Bethune has employed since the original DB25. While the brand’s marketing often highlights titanium’s lightweight nature, the factual record simply confirms the alloy’s use; any discussion of strength‑to‑weight ratios would be speculative. The case features the familiar fixed skeleton lugs and a crown positioned at three o’clock, a layout that reinforces the watch’s architectural symmetry. The transparent sapphire crystal on the front showcases a two‑tone guilloché dial that oscillates between silver and a deep, midnight‑blue. The guilloché pattern is not merely decorative; it creates a subtle play of light that accentuates the underlying complications. A spherical moon‑phase disc sits off‑center, its three‑dimensional curvature echoing the brand’s “spherical” design language and providing a kinetic visual cue as the lunar cycle progresses. The rear of the watch offers a full‑display caseback, allowing the wearer to admire the in‑house calibre DB2324V2 in motion. Water resistance is modest at 30 m, appropriate for a dress‑oriented piece that is not intended for aquatic activities. The overall aesthetic is a marriage of futurism and classicism: the titanium case exudes a muted, industrial sheen, while the dial’s guilloché work invokes traditional watchmaking artistry. --- ## Movement & Performance — caliber, power reserve, accuracy Powering the DB25 Perpetual Calendar is De Bethune’s in‑house calibre DB2324V2. The movement is a mechanical, self‑winding unit—its automatic nature is confirmed by the brand’s technical documentation. It drives a perpetual calendar that automatically adjusts for months of differing lengths, leap years and even the occasional century correction, all without user intervention. Complementing the calendar is a spherical moon‑phase complication that tracks the lunar cycle with a three‑dimensional disc, a visual hallmark of the DB25 family. The calibre boasts a five‑day power reserve, allowing the watch to run for a full weekend without winding—a practical benefit for owners who travel or prefer to leave the watch on a nightstand. While the source data does not provide explicit chronometer certification or beat‑rate figures, De Bethune’s reputation for meticulous finishing suggests a high level of accuracy and reliability. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, where the finishing on bridges, plates and the rotor can be examined in detail, underscoring the brand’s dedication to both engineering and aesthetics. --- ## On the Wrist — wearability, lug‑to‑lug, comfort notes The DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s 40 mm titanium case translates into a surprisingly comfortable wrist presence. Titanium, by virtue of its density, feels lighter than stainless steel or precious‑metal alternatives, reducing fatigue during extended wear. The fixed skeleton lugs provide a stable attachment point for the strap, and the crown’s three‑o’clock placement aligns naturally with the wearer’s hand movements, minimizing accidental adjustments. Because the exact lug‑to‑lug measurement is not disclosed in the source material, we can only comment on the overall ergonomics. The case’s proportions—slightly tapered at the shoulders and a modest thickness—allow the watch to sit comfortably under a shirt cuff while still projecting a confident silhouette. The strap options, typically a high‑grade leather or titanium bracelet, are engineered to complement the case’s curvature, ensuring a snug yet breathable fit. The watch’s 30 m water resistance, while not a selling point for swimmers, offers protection against splashes and rain, adding a layer of everyday practicality. One noted criticism from owners concerns the painted numerals on the dial. Some reviewers feel that painted hour markers lack the gravitas of applied or precious‑metal indices, especially on a piece where the rest of the finishing is of the highest caliber. While this is a subjective aesthetic judgment, it is worth mentioning for potential buyers who value every visual detail. --- ## When to Wear — occasion, setting and dress-code fit The DB25 Perpetual Calendar is unmistakably a dress watch, yet its bold dial treatment and avant‑garde case shape give it a versatility that transcends traditional formalwear. In a boardroom setting, the watch’s understated titanium case and refined guilloché dial convey confidence without shouting for attention. The perpetual calendar and moon‑phase complications add a layer of intellectual intrigue, making it an excellent conversation starter among fellow horology enthusiasts. Evening events—black‑tie galas, opera nights, or upscale cocktail parties—are where the DB25 truly shines. The two‑tone silver‑and‑blue dial catches ambient light, creating a subtle shimmer that complements tuxedo lapels or a well‑tailored suit. The watch’s limited production run adds an aura of exclusivity, aligning well with the dress codes of high‑society gatherings where rarity is prized. For more casual environments, the DB25 can be paired with a smart‑casual ensemble—a crisp shirt, blazer, and dark denim—without feeling out of place. However, its price point and delicate finishing (especially the painted numerals) suggest it should be protected from rough activities. In short, the DB25 is best suited to occasions where the wearer wishes to make a refined yet distinctive statement. --- ## Value & Verdict — price‑positioning + final take At an approximate retail price of $145 000 (CHF 125 000, excl. tax) and a production limit of 15 pieces per year, the DB25 Perpetual Calendar occupies the upper echelons of the independent watch market. Its value proposition rests on three pillars: 1. **Rarity** – With only a handful of units emerging each year, ownership confers a level of exclusivity that few other watches can match. 2. **Technical Merit** – The in‑house calibre DB2324V2 delivers a perpetual calendar and spherical moon‑phase in a compact 40 mm case, a feat that balances complication density with wearability. 3. **Design Integrity** – De Bethune’s signature aesthetic—clean titanium lines, guilloché dial work, and the iconic spherical moon—remains intact, offering a watch that feels both futuristic and timeless. The drawbacks are equally clear. The painted hour markers have drawn criticism for appearing less premium than applied indices, and the modest 30 m water resistance limits the watch to dry‑zone use. Moreover, the price sits at a level where many collectors might opt for a more established perpetual calendar from a larger maison, especially given the lack of chronometer certification data. **Verdict:** For collectors who prioritize limited‑edition status, appreciate De Bethune’s daring design language, and desire a perpetual calendar that can be comfortably worn daily, the DB25 Perpetual Calendar delivers a compelling package. It is not a watch for the faint‑hearted or the budget‑conscious, but within its niche it stands as a benchmark of modern independent watchmaking—an elegant synthesis of art, engineering, and exclusivity. If the painted numerals do not detract from your aesthetic sensibility, the DB25 offers a rare opportunity to own a piece of horological futurism that still respects the traditions of its craft.