# De Bethune DB28XP – The Ultra‑Thin Celebration of a Decade‑Old Icon The DB28XP arrives as the most stripped‑down, feather‑light incarnation of De Bethune’s celebrated DB28 family. Launched in 2020 to mark the ten‑year anniversary of the original DB28, the watch pares the concept back to its essentials: a 43 mm titanium case that sits a mere 7.2 mm from crystal to crystal, a hand‑wound DB2115 calibre delivering a six‑day reserve, and a futuristic silhouette defined by floating lugs and a crown perched at 12 o’clock. At a retail price of US $79,000 it sits squarely in the brand’s Tier 1, haute‑horlogerie tier, promising both a statement of design daring and a showcase of De Bethune’s technical ambition. Below we break down how the DB28XP fits into the brand’s lineage, what it looks and feels like, how it performs, and whether it justifies its lofty price tag. --- ## Heritage — the model's place in the brand's line and its launch context De Bethune, founded in 2002 by the eponymous Swiss watchmaker, has built its reputation on a blend of “space‑age” aesthetics and avant‑garde engineering. The original DB28, introduced in 2010, was the brand’s first foray into a dress‑watch format that still carried the unmistakable De Bethune DNA: a rounded case, a crown at the 12 o’clock position, and the signature “floating” lugs that appear to hover above the crystal. Ten years later, the DB28XP was unveiled as an “extra‑flat” tribute to that milestone. The “XP” suffix (extra‑thin, pure) signals the model’s core proposition—removing everything that is not strictly necessary while preserving the DB28’s architectural language. As the brand’s own press release noted, the DB28XP is “the DB28 stripped to its essentials,” a claim echoed by independent reviewers who described it as “quietly beautiful and utterly compelling.” Within De Bethune’s catalogue, the DB28XP occupies the top‑tier (Tier 1) dress‑watch segment, alongside other flagship pieces such as the DB28 Starry Sky and the DB28 Steel Wheels. All three share the 43 mm titanium case but differ in finishing, complication set, and dial treatment. The XP version, however, is the purest expression of the line’s minimalist ethos, making it a reference point for collectors who want the brand’s signature silhouette without the added visual clutter of a tourbillon, a date window, or an elaborate dial pattern. --- ## Design & Case — case dimensions, materials, dial ### Case - **Diameter:** 43 mm - **Thickness:** 7.2 mm (officially listed as the case height) - **Material:** Mirror‑polished titanium (no grade‑2 specification in the source material) - **Water resistance:** 30 m (suitable for everyday wear, not for swimming) The DB28XP’s case is a masterclass in material efficiency. Titanium, prized for its lightness and strength, allows the watch to maintain a substantial 43 mm presence while staying comfortably thin. At 7.2 mm, the watch is among the slimmest three‑quarter‑size dress watches on the market, a fact that the brand highlights with the tagline “It is now ultra‑thin and it has never looked so good!” The case’s curvature is described as “more pronounced and ergonomic,” a subtle nod to the brand’s commitment to wearer comfort despite the large diameter. The lugs appear to float because they are not attached to the case in the traditional sense; instead, they are integrated into the case’s outer shell, creating a visual gap that adds to the futuristic aesthetic. The crown, positioned at 12 o’clock rather than the conventional 3 o’clock, reinforces the watch’s space‑age lineage and makes winding a more intuitive, vertical motion. ### Dial The DB28XP’s dial is a study in restraint. It forgoes hour markers, a date window, and even a minute track in many variations, leaving the surface largely blank save for the central hour‑hand and the subtle, hand‑finished guilloché texture that catches the light at different angles. One reviewer complained, “I don’t normally like to see a balance through the dial and it has no minutes shown or day or date,” underscoring that the watch’s minimalism is not universally appealing. Nevertheless, the dial’s simplicity accentuates the case’s engineering. The lack of a minute track makes the watch feel like a pure time‑telling device, where the hour hand becomes the primary visual anchor. The “catalogue of variations in metal finishing” mentioned in source quotes points to the fact that De Bethune offers several finishes—mirror‑polished, brushed, or even a “Starry Sky” treatment—allowing buyers to tailor the visual impact without altering the underlying architecture. --- ## Movement & Performance — caliber, power reserve, accuracy At the heart of the DB28XP sits De Bethune’s in‑house hand‑wound calibre **DB2115v6** (some sources reference a DB2115v7, but both denote a hand‑wound mechanical movement). Key specifications: - **Beat rate:** 28,800 vph (4 Hz) – a relatively high frequency that contributes to a smooth sweep of the hour hand. - **Power reserve:** 6 days (144 hours) – generous for a manual winding, meaning the wearer can comfortably go a full workweek without needing to wind. - **Jewels:** 29 – typical for a movement of this complexity, providing reduced friction at critical pivot points. - **Complications:** None beyond the hour indication; the watch deliberately omits a minute track, date, or any additional functions. The movement is a testament to De Bethune’s engineering prowess. Hand‑wound calibers of this size are rare in the ultra‑thin segment, where many brands resort to automatic or quartz modules to achieve thinness. By retaining a manual winding mechanism, De Bethune preserves a tactile connection between the wearer and the watch—a core tenet of haute horlogerie. Accuracy, however, remains an open question. A negative review raised the concern: “Something which rarely gets mentioned with very expensive pieces is accuracy, I would expect COSC standard or better, is this the case?” The source material does not confirm whether the DB2115v6 has been officially certified by COSC or any other chronometer body. As such, potential buyers should treat the movement as a high‑end manual calibre that offers impressive power reserve and smoothness, but without a guaranteed chronometer rating. --- ## On the Wrist — wearability, lug‑to‑lug, comfort notes The DB28XP’s 43 mm diameter might suggest a watch that dominates the wrist, but the 7.2 mm thickness and the ergonomic curvature of the caseband mitigate any “bulky” impression. Measured from lug to lug, the watch spans roughly 50 mm, a dimension that sits comfortably on most wrist sizes, especially when the lugs appear to float rather than protrude. Titanium’s low density translates to a feather‑light feel; the watch typically weighs under 100 grams, making it almost unnoticeable on the wrist after a short acclimation period. The crown’s placement at 12 o’clock, while unconventional, does not interfere with the wearer’s natural wrist movement. In fact, the vertical winding action feels natural when the watch is on the left wrist, and the crown’s recessed design reduces the chance of accidental adjustments. On the wrist, the DB28XP “looks good and if feels good,” according to a positive reviewer. The lack of a minute track means the eye is drawn to the sweeping hour hand, which glides across the minimalist dial with a near‑silk fluidity thanks to the 28,800 vph beat rate. The watch’s 30 m water resistance is sufficient for rain, hand‑washing, and daily activities, but it should not be worn for swimming or diving. --- ## When to Wear — occasion, setting and dress‑code fit De Bethune positions the DB28XP squarely in the **dress** category, and its ultra‑thin profile makes it an ideal companion for formal attire. The mirror‑polished titanium case catches ambient light without being ostentatious, allowing it to pair seamlessly with a tuxedo, a tailored suit, or even a crisp white shirt for business‑day elegance. Because the watch lacks a date window and minute markers, it reads more like a design object than a utilitarian timepiece. This makes it best suited for events where the wearer wishes to make a subtle, avant‑garde statement—art gallery openings, high‑end cocktail parties, or private soirées. In a more casual setting—think weekend brunch or a day at the office—the watch can still work, especially if paired with a relaxed blazer or a smart‑casual shirt, but its price and rarity may feel out of place in a purely informal environment. Given its 30 m water resistance, the DB28XP is not a sports watch. It should be avoided in activities involving significant moisture or impact (e.g., sailing, hiking in rain). Its manual winding also means the wearer must remember to wind the watch at least once every six days, a ritual that fits well with a disciplined, perhaps even ceremonial, daily routine. --- ## Value & Verdict — price‑positioning + final take | Specification | Detail | |---------------|--------| | **Case** | 43 mm titanium, 7.2 mm thick | | **Movement** | DB2115v6 hand‑wound, 28,800 vph, 6‑day reserve | | **Water resistance** | 30 m | | **Price (USD)** | $79,000 | | **Category** | Dress (Tier 1) | At US $79,000, the DB28XP sits at the high end of the luxury dress‑watch market. Its price is justified by several factors: an in‑house manual calibre, the use of premium titanium, a design that pushes the limits of thinness for a 43 mm case, and the brand’s reputation for pioneering aesthetics. **Strengths** - **Ultra‑thin execution** – 7.2 mm height is extraordinary for a watch of this diameter. - **Material choice** – Titanium offers a unique blend of lightness, durability, and a subtle, modern sheen. - **Design purity** – The “stripped to essentials” philosophy results in a watch that feels like a sculptural object as much as a timekeeper. - **Power reserve** – Six days of autonomy is generous for a manual winding watch. **Weaknesses** - **Lack of complications** – No minute track, date, or day display may deter buyers who expect at least a minute indication on a dress watch. - **Unconfirmed chronometer rating** – No official COSC certification is mentioned, leaving accuracy expectations ambiguous. - **Niche aesthetic** – The floating lugs and 12 o’clock crown, while striking, are polarising; some traditionalists may find the look too avant‑garde. **Verdict** The De Bethune DB28XP is not a watch for the mass market; it is a statement piece for collectors who value design daring and mechanical purity over everyday practicality. Its ultra‑thin titanium case and hand‑wound movement showcase De Bethune’s ability to marry avant‑garde aesthetics with serious horological engineering. While the absence of a minute track and the lack of a certified chronometer rating are legitimate drawbacks, they are consistent with the model’s philosophy of minimalism. If you appreciate a watch that feels like a piece of kinetic sculpture, are comfortable winding it regularly, and are willing to invest a substantial sum for a uniquely thin titanium dress watch, the DB28XP delivers on its promises. For those who need a more conventional dial layout, a certified chronometer, or a lower entry price, other De Bethune models—or competitors in the ultra‑thin dress segment—may be a better fit. **Bottom line:** The DB28XP is a daring, technically impressive celebration of a ten‑year legacy. It commands a premium price, and for the right collector, that price buys not just a watch, but a conversation‑starter that epitomises De Bethune’s space‑age vision. ---