Formex Essence ThirtyNine Review: The Under-$1,500 Swiss Sports Watch That Punches Way Above Its Weight

In a market where luxury sports watches have become either unattainable (think steel Nautilus) or uninspired (another black-dial diver), the Formex Essence ThirtyNine arrives like a cold brew on a humid afternoon — unexpected, refreshing, and exactly what you didn't know you needed. This is a watch built for the collector who values engineering over hype, and who understands that a microbrand can deliver macro-level finishing.

Formex, founded in 1999 by a Swiss engineer with a passion for motorsport, has always marched to its own beat. The Essence line, launched in 2019, distilled their obsession with lightweight construction and ergonomic innovation into a daily-wearable package. The ThirtyNine (ref. 0333.1.6621.722) is the sweet spot: 39mm of brushed and polished stainless steel, a carbon-fiber case middle, and a patented case suspension system that makes it feel like the watch is floating on your wrist. It's a tool watch that doesn't look like one, and a dress watch that can handle a weekend hike.

This isn't a watch you buy because your favorite influencer wore it. It's a watch you buy because you've done the research, you appreciate the engineering, and you want something that will still make you smile five years from now. Let's dive into the details.

Manufacture History

Formex was founded in 1999 in the Swiss Jura by a former racing engineer. The brand's early focus was on motorsport-inspired timepieces with extreme durability. Their patented case suspension system — which uses spring-loaded screws to isolate the movement from shocks — was first developed for racing chronographs. The Essence line, introduced in 2019, brought this technology to a more refined, everyday package. The ThirtyNine is the latest evolution, offering a 39mm case that appeals to modern tastes for smaller, more versatile watches.

Movement

At the heart of the Essence ThirtyNine beats the Sellita SW200-1, a Swiss workhorse that powers countless watches from brands like Oris, Sinn, and Christopher Ward. It's an automatic movement with 26 jewels, a 28,800 vph beat rate, and a 38-hour power reserve. While not in-house, Formex regulates each movement to -4/+6 seconds per day — essentially chronometer standards without the COSC certification. The custom skeletonized rotor adds a touch of visual flair through the exhibition caseback.

Specifications

  • Case Diameter: 39mm
  • Case Thickness: 10.5mm
  • Lug-to-Lug: 46mm
  • Case Material: Stainless steel with carbon-fiber case middle
  • Crystal: Sapphire with double anti-reflective coating
  • Water Resistance: 100 meters
  • Lume: Super-LumiNova X1 (blue glow)
  • Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel oyster-style bracelet with micro-adjust clasp
  • Clasp Type: Deployant with tool-free micro-adjustment

Wrist Feel

The Essence ThirtyNine wears like a dream — and I don't use that phrase lightly. At 39mm wide and just 10.5mm thick, it slips under a cuff without protest. The 46mm lug-to-lug ensures it doesn't overhang on smaller wrists, while the patented case suspension system (four spring-loaded screws on the caseback) allows the entire movement and case middle to float, absorbing shocks and making the watch feel almost weightless. On the steel bracelet, the weight is perfectly balanced; the micro-adjust clasp (tool-free, with six positions) means you can dial in the fit in seconds. This is a watch you forget you're wearing — until you glance at it and remember why you love it.

Accuracy

Out of the box, my test unit ran at +3 seconds per day, well within Formex's claimed -4/+6 range. After a week of mixed wear (office, gym, sleep), it averaged +4.2 seconds. The SW200-1 is not a high-beat marvel, but it's consistent. If you're a stickler for precision, a quick regulation at your local watchmaker will get you to within a second. For daily use, it's more than adequate — you'll only need to adjust the date every other month.

Occasions

The Essence ThirtyNine is a true GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) watch. It works with a suit, a polo, or a wetsuit. The 100m water resistance means you can swim with it, and the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal handles desk diving. It's equally at home at a gallery opening or a trail run.

Wrist Presence

4/5 — The Essence ThirtyNine is understated but not invisible. The carbon-fiber case middle adds a subtle texture that catches light differently than a full steel case. The polished bezel and indices give it a touch of elegance, while the brushed lugs keep it sporty. It's a watch that watch people will notice, but civilians will just think looks good.

Reference Variants

The Essence ThirtyNine is available in several dial colors: white (ref. 0333.1.6621.722), black (ref. 0333.1.6621.723), blue (ref. 0333.1.6621.724), and green (ref. 0333.1.6621.725). All share the same case, movement, and bracelet options. The white dial is the most legible, while the blue offers a sunburst effect that dresses up the watch.

Family References

The Essence line also includes a 43mm version (ref. 0333.1.6621.722 is the 39mm) and the Essence Leggera, which uses a titanium case. The Reef is Formex's dedicated dive watch, with a 300m water resistance and a unidirectional bezel.

Other Notable Models by Formex

  • Formex Essence 43
  • Formex Reef
  • Formex Leggera
  • Formex Field

Similar Watches

  • Nomos Club 38 — Similar size and clean design, but with in-house movement and Bauhaus aesthetic.
  • Sinn 556 I — German tool watch with similar durability and understated looks, but no suspension system.
  • Oris Aquis 39.5 — Dive watch with similar price point and Swiss pedigree, but heavier and more dive-focused.
  • Longines HydroConquest 39 — More established brand, similar water resistance, but less innovative case design.

Homages

  • San Martin SN004-G ($250) — Homage to the Rolex Explorer, but with similar dimensions and a Seiko NH35 movement.
  • Steeldive SD1970 ($120) — Affordable diver with similar case shape, but no suspension and lower finishing.

Investment Value

The Essence ThirtyNine retails for $1,290. Pre-owned examples typically sell for $800–$1,100, reflecting a stable market. This is not a watch that will appreciate — it's a tool watch meant to be worn. However, Formex's growing reputation and limited production runs may help hold value. No major auction history.

Service Interval

Formex recommends service every 5 years. A full service costs approximately $350 through Formex or any competent watchmaker. The Sellita SW200-1 is easy to service, and parts are widely available.

Pros and Cons

Pros: Patented case suspension system, excellent finishing, comfortable 39mm size, chronometer-level regulation, micro-adjust clasp.

Cons: Movement is not in-house, modest 38h power reserve, carbon-fiber case middle may not appeal to traditionalists, limited brand recognition.

Final Verdict

The Formex Essence ThirtyNine is a masterclass in what a microbrand can achieve when engineering takes center stage. It's not a hype watch — it's a horological tool that happens to look stunning. If you value innovation, comfort, and Swiss quality without the marketing premium, this is the one. Buy it, wear it, and watch the watch world slowly catch up.