Formex Field Automatic

Introduction

In a segment crowded with homages and heritage reissues, the Formex Field Automatic (ref. 0660.1.6543.744) stands out as a genuinely considered tool watch. Formex, a Swiss brand founded in 1999, has built a reputation for engineering-first design, most notably their patented Case Suspension System that integrates the case and bracelet into a flexible, shock-absorbing unit. The Field Automatic distills this philosophy into a compact, legible package that feels equally at home on a mountain trail or in a city boardroom.

This review examines the Field Automatic through the lens of a collector who values both technical substance and everyday wearability. We’ll dissect the movement, case architecture, finishing, and real-world performance to see if this reference earns its place in a curated rotation.

Manufacture History

Formex was established in 1999 in the Swiss Jura region, an area steeped in watchmaking tradition. The brand quickly differentiated itself by focusing on case engineering, culminating in the patented Case Suspension System (CSS) that debuted in the early 2000s. This system uses a spring-loaded mechanism to allow the case to float slightly within the bezel, absorbing shocks and improving comfort. The Field Automatic is a direct descendant of that philosophy, offering a robust field watch with modern ergonomics and a clean, utilitarian aesthetic.

Movement

Powering the Field Automatic is the Sellita SW200-1, a Swiss automatic movement that has become a staple in the industry for its reliability and ease of service. It beats at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and offers a 38-hour power reserve. While not COSC-certified, the movement in our test sample performed admirably, averaging +8 seconds per day. The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback, where you’ll find perlage on the bridges and a signed rotor. It’s not haute horlogerie, but it’s clean and honest. The date complication is a simple quick-set at 3 o’clock, framed by a polished window that matches the dial color on most variants.

Case and Finishing

The 40mm stainless steel case is brushed on top and polished on the chamfers, giving it a subtle contrast. The bezel is fixed and features a 60-minute scale with luminous pip at 12. The crown is signed with the Formex ‘F’ and is push-pull, which is appropriate for 100m water resistance. The sapphire crystal is domed and has an anti-reflective coating on the underside, reducing glare without a blue hue. The caseback is screw-down and features a large sapphire window. The patented Case Suspension System is integrated into the lugs; you can see the spring mechanism through the caseback. It adds a slight flexibility to the watch when worn, which is noticeable but not disconcerting.

Dial and Lume

The dial is the star of the show. Matte black with white printed Arabic numerals and a minute track, it’s a masterclass in legibility. The hands are sword-shaped and filled with Super-LumiNova X1, which glows bright green after charging. The lume lasts several hours and is evenly applied. The date window at 3 is unobtrusive, though on the black dial it has a white background that some may find distracting. The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal that adds a vintage touch without distorting the numerals.

Strap and Clasp

Our review sample came on a brown leather strap with a pin buckle. The leather is thick and padded, with a subtle grain. It’s comfortable from day one, though it lacks quick-release spring bars. The pin buckle is signed and brushed, matching the case. For those who prefer a bracelet, Formex offers a three-link stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and micro-adjustment. The rubber strap option is also excellent for active use.

Wrist Feel and Wearability

On the wrist, the Field Automatic wears smaller than its 40mm diameter suggests, thanks to a compact lug-to-lug of 48mm and a gently curved caseback. The patented Case Suspension System is not just a gimmick; it provides a subtle, compliant feel that absorbs micro-shocks without compromising the secure fit. The leather strap is supple out of the box, and the pin buckle is low-profile. At 12.5mm thick, it slides easily under a cuff, though the domed sapphire crystal adds a bit of visual height. Weight is moderate – around 80g on leather – making it comfortable for all-day wear. The crown is easy to grip, and the 100m water resistance gives confidence for swimming or hiking in rain. The overall balance is excellent; the watch never feels top-heavy or unbalanced.

Accuracy

The Sellita SW200-1 in this example ran consistently within +6 to +10 seconds per day in real-world wear, which is well within spec for a non-COSC movement. After a full wind, positional variance was minimal. For daily use, you can expect to lose or gain a few seconds, but it’s reliable enough to set and forget for a week or more.

Occasions

The Field Automatic is a versatile tool watch. It’s perfect for outdoor activities like hiking, camping, and casual sports thanks to its 100m water resistance and shock-absorbing case. It also works as a daily wearer for office or weekend use, pairing well with jeans or chinos. It’s not a dress watch, but it can handle smart-casual settings. For formal occasions, you’d want something thinner and more refined.

Wrist Presence

3.5/5 – The Field Automatic is understated but purposeful. The matte dial and brushed case keep it from shouting, but the unique suspension system and crisp indices give it a quiet confidence. It won’t steal the show at a black-tie event, but it commands respect among watch enthusiasts.

Reference Variants

The reference 0660.1.6543.744 is the black dial on leather. Other variants include blue dial (0660.1.6543.745), green dial on rubber (0660.1.6543.746), and black dial on steel bracelet (0660.1.6543.747). All share the same case and movement.

Family and Competitors

The Field Automatic is part of Formex’s core collection, alongside the Essence and Reef models. Competitors include the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (manual wind, 38mm), Seiko Alpinist SPB121 (automatic, 200m WR, compass bezel), and Marathon GSAR (tritium tubes, 300m WR). The Formex stands out for its suspension system and Swiss movement at a competitive price.

Investment Value

With an MSRP of $1,190, the Field Automatic offers strong value for a Swiss-made watch with a patented innovation. Pre-owned prices range from $800 to $1,000, indicating stable depreciation. It’s not a collector’s item, but it will hold its value reasonably well if kept in good condition. No major auction history exists.

Service and Maintenance

Formex recommends a service every 5 years. The Sellita SW200-1 is easy to service by any competent watchmaker; factory service costs around $500. The case suspension system may require specialized attention, but Formex provides support.

Pros and Cons

• Pros: Patented Case Suspension System, excellent legibility, compact 40mm case, sapphire crystal, 100m water resistance.
• Cons: Common movement with 38h power reserve, leather strap lacks quick-release, push-pull crown, date window not color-matched on all dials.

Final Verdict

The Formex Field Automatic is a thoughtfully engineered tool watch that delivers on its promise of rugged reliability and everyday comfort. The patented suspension system is a genuine innovation, and the finishing punches above its price point. While the movement is a standard workhorse, the overall package is cohesive and well-executed. For the discerning collector seeking a modern field watch with a twist, this reference is a compelling choice.