Guerlain Plus Que Jamais Review: The Discontinued Masterpiece You Need to Know
A Look Back at a Legendary Guerlain Floral Aldehyde
In the world of luxury fragrances, some scents achieve a mythical status not just through their aroma, but through their absence. Guerlain’s Plus Que Jamais is one such legend. Launched in 2005, this fragrance was part of a special, limited collection titled "Il était une fois... Guerlain" (Once upon a time... Guerlain), a project designed to reissue and reimagine historical formulas from the house's vast archives. Plus Que Jamais, however, was a new creation by the legendary Jean-Paul Guerlain, intended to sit alongside these revived classics as a modern homage to the brand's grand tradition.
Positioned at the highest end of Guerlain's offerings, this was never a mainstream release. It was an exclusive, limited-edition Eau de Parfum available only at Guerlain boutiques. Its name, translating to "More Than Ever," was a declaration of the enduring relevance and artistry of classic French perfumery in a market increasingly saturated with fleeting trends. It was a statement piece, a fragrance for the connoisseur who understood and appreciated the opulent, complex structures that defined Guerlain's golden age.
The inspiration behind Plus Que Jamais is pure, unapologetic glamour. It is a modern interpretation of the grand aldehydic floral chypre, a genre famously represented by icons like Chanel No. 5. However, Jean-Paul Guerlain infused it with a distinct identity, centering the composition around a rich, powdery orris root heart and warming it with the signature "Guerlinade" base of vanilla, tonka, and amber. The concept was to create a scent that felt both timeless and contemporary—a silken, powdered veil of olfactory luxury.
Since its discontinuation shortly after its release, Plus Que Jamais has become a "unicorn" in the fragrance community. It is a holy grail for collectors, commanding exorbitant prices on the secondary market. Its reputation is that of a masterpiece—a perfectly balanced, impeccably crafted floral that showcases the quality of raw materials and the genius of its creator. For those lucky enough to own a bottle, it represents a piece of fragrance history, a benchmark against which modern luxury perfumes are often measured.
The Nose Behind the Scent
Jean-Paul Guerlain. The last master perfumer from the Guerlain family, he is renowned for creating iconic fragrances such as Samsara, Vetiver, Habit Rouge, and Chamade.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
A bright, sparkling, champagne-like burst of aldehydes, softened by creamy ylang-ylang and a hint of bergamot. It's effervescent and grand, setting a glamorous tone.
The heart is dominated by a luxurious, buttery orris root, creating a high-end cosmetic powder and lipstick accord. This is supported by classic rose and jasmine, forming a timeless floral bouquet.
A classic 'Guerlinade' base of warm amber, creamy vanilla, and sweet tonka bean emerges, grounded by smooth sandalwood and earthy vetiver. The powdery orris lingers, creating a warm, sensual skin scent.
Performance Dashboard
Excellent. Lasts 10-12 hours on skin, and for days on clothing.
Projects strongly for the first 2-3 hours, creating an noticeable aura before settling closer to the skin.
Leaves a distinct and elegant trail that is memorable without being overpowering.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
More of a personal indulgence or a connoisseur's scent. It will draw high praise from those who recognize its artistry, but may be perceived as 'old-fashioned' by others.
Pros & Cons
- ✅ A masterful, seamless composition by Jean-Paul Guerlain.
- ✅ Features one of the most beautiful orris notes in modern perfumery.
- ✅ Exceptional performance in both longevity and sillage.
- ✅ The classic Guerlinade drydown is warm and luxurious.
- ✅ Represents a piece of fragrance history; highly coveted by collectors.
- ❌ Discontinued and extremely difficult to find.
- ❌ Prohibitively expensive on the secondary market.
- ❌ The prominent aldehydic-powdery profile can be challenging for modern tastes.
Price & Value
“Worth the price only for dedicated collectors and enthusiasts who consider it a 'holy grail' scent. For most consumers, the cost is not justifiable.”
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Fragrance collectors
- Lovers of classic, vintage-style perfumes
- Admirers of powdery and aldehydic scents
- Individuals aged 30+ with an elegant, polished style
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Those who dislike powdery or 'makeup' scents
- Fans of minimalist, aquatic, or gourmand fragrances
- Anyone seeking a casual, everyday scent due to its rarity and price
The Family
Plus Que Jamais was a standalone, limited edition release with no subsequent flankers.
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares the classic aldehydic floral structure, though No. 5 is soapier and less powdery.
A modern take on a powdery iris/aldehyde combination with a cleaner aesthetic.
Another grand, opulent aldehydic floral with immense complexity and a rich, resinous base.
Guerlain's other famous aldehydic floral, which is brighter and more crystalline in character.
💡 Clone Alternatives
Due to its unique composition, quality of materials, and discontinued status, no well-known clone alternatives exist in the market.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
For those who love a powerful, incense-tinged aldehydic floral.
Appeals to lovers of classic, powdery Guerlain compositions with a vintage feel.
Shares a similar classic, mossy, and romantic 'perfumey' quality.
More from Guerlain
🧪 Layering Ideas
- A single-note sandalwood oil to amplify the creamy woody base.
- A light, non-sweet vanilla fragrance to enhance the Guerlinade accord.
- It is strongly recommended to wear this complex masterpiece on its own to appreciate its full evolution.
🏆 Final Verdict
Guerlain's Plus Que Jamais is a legend for a reason. It is a breathtakingly beautiful aldehydic floral that showcases the genius of Jean-Paul Guerlain and the unparalleled quality of the house's materials. Its beauty lies in its perfect balance: the sparkling opening, the impossibly luxurious powdery heart, and the signature warm embrace of the Guerlinade drydown.
This is not a fragrance you buy on a whim. This is a fragrance you seek out. You should buy it if you are a serious collector of olfactory art, if you mourn the decline of classic perfumery, or if the scent of powdery orris and warm vanilla is your personal definition of luxury. It is an investment in a piece of history—a rare and beautiful artifact from a bygone era of perfumery that remains, more than ever, a benchmark for timeless elegance.