perfume

The Resurgence of a Legend: A Critical Review of Hermès Amazone (2017 Re-Launch)

Christine Nagel's Contemporary Interpretation of a Verdant Classic

By Dr. Laurent Beaumont · · Updated

The venerable House of Hermès, a bastion of French luxury renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship in leather goods, equestrian equipment, and silk, possesses an equally distinguished legacy in the realm of perfumery. For decades, its fragrances have embodied an understated elegance, a refined sophistication that transcends fleeting trends. Among its most iconic olfactory creations is Amazone, originally conceived in 1974. This groundbreaking fragrance, a verdant chypre floral, captured the spirit of the independent woman, drawing inspiration from the mythical Amazonian horsewomen—emblems of strength, freedom, and untamed grace. Its initial release was a bold statement, a complex tapestry of green, fruity, and animalic notes that resonated deeply within the perfume connoisseurship of its era, marking its territory as a scent for the audacious and discerning.

In 2017, Hermès embarked upon a delicate yet pivotal endeavor: the re-orchestration of Amazone. Under the masterful guidance of Christine Nagel, the esteemed in-house perfumer for Hermès, this re-launch was not merely a reformulation but a contemporary homage, a thoughtful reinterpretation designed to resonate with a new generation while respecting the profound heritage of its predecessor. This iteration sought to lighten the intensity, enhance luminosity, and refine the narrative, positioning it as a radiant, modern floral-fruity composition within Hermès' prestigious line-up, alongside modern classics such as Twilly d’Hermès and the various manifestations of Eau des Merveilles.

The inspiration behind Amazone remains as compelling as ever: the fierce, independent spirit of the Amazonian women. This narrative is intrinsically woven into the fabric of Hermès itself, a brand deeply rooted in equestrian traditions, symbolizing movement, power, and elegance. The 2017 re-launch aimed to distill this essence into a more luminous and approachable form, a fragrance that speaks of freedom and vitality, yet retains an unmistakable air of Hermès' signature sophistication. It is a scent designed for the woman who navigates the modern world with an enduring sense of inner strength and refined charm, a woman who is both grounded and effortlessly dynamic.

Within the fragrance community, the 2017 re-launch was met with a mixture of anticipation and scrutiny. Purists of the original 1974 rendition, often nostalgic for its pronounced chypre character and robust sillage, approached the new version with critical reverence. However, the re-orchestrated Amazone quickly carved out its own niche, earning accolades for its bright clarity, its elegant balance of fruit and floral notes, and its contemporary wearability. It has solidified its reputation as a sophisticated daytime fragrance, a testament to Christine Nagel's ability to evolve a classic without diminishing its inherent artistry, thus securing its place as a significant contribution to modern luxury perfumery.

The Nose Behind the Scent

Christine Nagel, a Swiss-born perfumer renowned for her scientific rigor and artistic sensibility. She joined Hermès as in-house perfumer in 2016, succeeding Jean-Claude Ellena. Her other notable creations for Hermès include Galop d'Hermès, Twilly d'Hermès, and Eau des Merveilles Bleue, among a vast portfolio for various luxury brands prior to Hermès.

4.2 Overall
Longevity
3.8
Projection
3.5
Sillage
3.2
$100-150 for 50ml, $130-200 for 100ml (approximate)
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Fruity 35%
Floral 30%
Green 15%
Woody 10%
Ambery/Soft 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
BlackcurrantRed CurrantMandarin OrangeGalbanum
Heart
NarcissusRoseRaspberryIris
Base
VetiverCedarwoodAmberSandalwood

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The initial impression is a vibrant, sparkling burst of blackcurrant and red currant, brightened by mandarin orange. A subtle, crisp green inflection from galbanum provides a refreshing and sophisticated tang, establishing a luminous and invigorating start.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a sophisticated floral tapestry. Narcissus takes prominence with its unique green-floral character, elegantly interwoven with classic rose. A delicate hint of raspberry adds refined sweetness, while iris introduces a powdery, sophisticated depth.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The drydown settles into a refined and comforting skin scent. Vetiver provides a clean, earthy anchor, while cedarwood and sandalwood contribute a smooth, dry woodiness. A whisper of amber imparts a delicate, comforting sweetness, ensuring a lingering trail of quiet sophistication.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 3.8/5

Exhibits commendable longevity for an EDT, lasting approximately 6 to 8 hours on skin, ensuring sustained presence throughout the day.

📢 Projection 3.5/5

Projects moderately for the initial 2-3 hours, creating a discernible yet never overwhelming olfactory aura within arm's length. It is designed to be discovered, not announced.

💨 Sillage 3.2/5

Leaves a delicate, whispering trail rather than a bold statement. It is perceptible but non-intrusive, a hallmark of well-mannered perfumery, leaving a pleasant, fleeting memory.

When to Wear

🌸SpringBest
☀️SummerOK
🍂FallAvoid
❄️WinterAvoid

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.2
👃 Scent
4.4
⏱️ Longevity
3.8
💨 Sillage
3.5
💰 Value
3.7

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ Exquisite olfactory profile with a beautiful balance of floral-fruity and green notes.
  • ✅ Impeccable versatility, suitable for numerous occasions and seasons.
  • ✅ Embodies the refined elegance and timeless sophistication of Hermès.
  • ✅ Successfully updates a heritage scent for modern sensibilities.
  • ✅ Unique and distinctive, standing apart from prevalent trends.
  • ✅ High-quality ingredients and smooth blending.
  • ❌ Moderate performance (longevity and sillage) may not satisfy those seeking potent fragrances.
  • ❌ Premium price point reflects its luxury positioning, which may be a consideration.
  • ❌ Not a mass-pleaser, its sophisticated profile might not appeal to all tastes, especially those preferring sweeter scents.

Price & Value

$100-150 for 50ml, $130-200 for 100ml (approximate)
Luxury

“Undoubtedly worth the investment for the discerning consumer who prioritizes sophisticated individuality, impeccable quality, and enduring olfactory artistry.”

📜 Reformulation History

The 2017 re-launch by Christine Nagel is itself a significant reformulation and re-orchestration of the original 1974 Amazone. The primary distinction lies between the vintage 1974 composition and this modern iteration. No significant batch variations have been widely reported within the 2017 re-launch itself, indicating consistent production quality.

4.6 Overall
Longevity
4.8
Projection
4.5
Sillage
4.7
$250-350 for 50ml
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Floral 35%
Woody 25%
Fruity 20%
Green 10%
Ambery 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
BlackcurrantMandarin OrangeGalbanum
Heart
NarcissusRoseRaspberryIris
Base
VetiverCedarwoodAmberSandalwood

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The initial impression of the Amazone Parfum unfurls with a more concentrated and less effervescent burst of rich Blackcurrant and a rounded Mandarin Orange, underpinned by a deeper, verdant Galbanum that signals the profound journey ahead. This opening, while still bright, possesses an immediate gravitas, a prelude to the heart's opulence.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the fragrance evolves, the heart blossoms into an intensely rich and expansive floral symphony. The Narcissus and Rose are amplified, exuding a luxurious, velvety texture, while the Raspberry takes on a darker, jammy quality. The Iris lends a sophisticated, powdery earthiness, weaving through the florals with remarkable depth and presence, a testament to the Parfum's refined composition.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The ultimate expression of Amazone Parfum resides in its magnificent drydown, an exceptionally prolonged and profound embrace. The Vetiver emerges with a more pronounced, rooty earthiness, seamlessly blending with the robust Cedarwood. A warm, resinous Amber envelops the composition, while creamy Sandalwood provides a lingering, luxurious warmth, establishing a distinguished and enduring sillage that is both comforting and commanding.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 4.8/5

Exemplary longevity, enduring for 10-14 hours on the skin.

📢 Projection 4.5/5

A commanding presence for the first 3-5 hours, settling into an elegant, noticeable aura.

💨 Sillage 4.7/5

Leaves a substantial and sophisticated trail, unmistakably luxurious.

When to Wear

🌸SpringOK
☀️SummerAvoid
🍂FallBest
❄️WinterBest

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.6
👃 Scent
4.7
⏱️ Longevity
4.8
💨 Sillage
4.6
💰 Value
4.0

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ Unparalleled depth and richness of scent
  • ✅ Exceptional longevity and refined sillage
  • ✅ More complex and opulent olfactive journey
  • ✅ Emits an air of sophisticated luxury
  • ❌ Significantly higher price point
  • ❌ Potentially less versatile for casual daytime wear
  • ❌ Can be perceived as too intense for warmer climates or sensitive individuals

Price & Value

$250-350 for 50ml
Premium

“The elevated price is justified by the superior concentration, profound longevity, and exquisite depth, making it a discerning investment.”

Who It's For

✅ Ideal For

  • Women aged 25 and above
  • Individuals who appreciate understated elegance and timeless sophistication
  • Those with a confident yet gentle demeanor
  • Wearers seeking a versatile, signature daytime scent

⚠️ Not Recommended For

  • Those who prefer overtly sweet, gourmand, heavy oriental, or intensely animalic fragrances
  • Individuals seeking potent, room-filling sillage
  • Those with a strong aversion to green or tart fruity notes

Explore More

🔍 Similar Fragrances

Cristalle Eau Verte Chanel

Shares a luminous, green-citrus freshness and an air of understated elegance.

Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita Guerlain

Captures a comparable bright, juicy fruitiness with a fresh, uplifting quality, though lighter.

L'Ombre dans l'Eau Diptyque

Shares a distinctive blackcurrant leaf note, offering a green, naturalistic fruitiness, though more intensely green and rose-centric.

Eau de Campagne Sisley

For those who appreciate the green, invigorating facets, though far more herbal and overtly chypre.

💡 Clone Alternatives

Quelques Notes d'Amour Yves Rocher

While more rose-centric, shares a certain elegant floral-fruity warmth in a similar vein of sophisticated femininity.

Blackcurrant Vanilla The Body Shop

Offers a simpler, sweeter blackcurrant interpretation for those drawn to that specific note, though lacks complexity.

Vibrant Leather for Her Zara

Some of Zara's clean, slightly fruity-floral offerings can evoke a similar sense of modern, approachable elegance, albeit without the depth.

❤️ You May Also Enjoy

No. 19 Poudré Chanel

For a refined, green-iris composition that exudes classic elegance and understated confidence.

Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic Guerlain

If the bright, juicy mandarin and fresh facets are appealing, offers a delightful, effervescent citrus-herbaceous experience.

Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Bvlgari

For a serene, clean, and subtly green aromatic freshness that shares Amazone's sophisticated lightness.

Un Jardin sur le Nil Hermès

For appreciation of Hermès' masterful blending of green and fruity notes with a transparent, watery quality.

More from Hermès

Terre d'Hermès Hermès
Eau des Merveilles Hermès
Calèche Hermès
Kelly Calèche Hermès
Twilly d'Hermès Hermès

🧪 Layering Ideas

🏆 Final Verdict

Hermès Amazone (2017) is far more than a mere re-release; it is a meticulously crafted homage, a testament to the enduring power of classic perfumery re-imagined through a contemporary lens. Christine Nagel has achieved a remarkable feat: preserving the independent spirit and sophisticated verdancy of the original while infusing it with a luminous, approachable modernity that resonates deeply with today's discerning consumer. This fragrance is an eloquent expression of understated luxury, a scent that speaks volumes through its elegant restraint rather than overt declarations. Its radiant floral-fruity heart, underpinned by subtle green and woody nuances, makes it incredibly versatile, an impeccable companion for professional endeavors, sophisticated daytime engagements, and moments of quiet personal reflection.

For those who seek a signature scent that embodies refinement, intelligence, and an effortless sense of style, Amazone (2017) is an indispensable acquisition. It stands as a beacon of quality in a crowded market, offering a unique olfactory signature that distinguishes its wearer with grace and confidence. It is a fragrance that evolves beautifully on the skin, revealing new facets throughout its journey, always remaining poised and impeccably chic. To own Amazone (2017) is to possess a piece of Hermès' illustrious heritage, re-envisioned for the present, a timeless accessory that elevates every moment with its undeniable charm and sophisticated allure. It is an investment in personal elegance, a fragrance that will continue to captivate and inspire for years to come.

HermèsAmazoneChristine NagelLuxury FragranceFloral FruityGreen PerfumeClassic Re-launchDesigner PerfumeWomen's Fragrance