Issey Miyake Shade of Lagoon Review: The Facts on This Tropical Flanker
Is this limited edition summer scent worth tracking down? We break down the notes, performance, and value.
In the world of men''s fragrances, few names carry the weight of L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme. Launched in 1994, the original was a game-changer, a pillar of 90s minimalism that defined the aquatic genre with its iconic yuzu and cypress accord. For decades, Issey Miyake has built upon this legacy, primarily through a series of annual limited edition summer flankers. These releases offer a temporary, seasonal twist on the classic DNA, often disappearing from shelves within a year, creating a sense of urgency and collectibility.
L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme Shade of Lagoon, released in 2019, is one such creation. It arrived as part of a duo with a feminine counterpart, positioned as a fleeting olfactory snapshot of a specific, idyllic moment. Unlike core line extensions designed for permanent rotation, Shade of Lagoon was built for a single summer. Its purpose was not to replace the original but to complement it, offering loyalists a fresh, modern interpretation for the warmest months of the year. It competed directly with the seasonal offerings from giants like Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, and Giorgio Armani, all vying for the title of that year''s essential summer scent.
The inspiration for Shade of Lagoon is refreshingly specific. Perfumer Aurélien Guichard drew from his travels to Zamami, a small Japanese island in the Okinawa archipelago. The concept was to capture the feeling of diving into a deep, turquoise lagoon, surrounded by lush, green vegetation under a warm sun. The fragrance aims to bottle this contrast: the bright, zesty energy of citrus sunlight, the cool, watery depths, and the green, aromatic foliage of the shore. The bottle''s design, with its gradient of blue and green, visually reinforces this concept of a tropical oasis.
Among fragrance enthusiasts, Shade of Lagoon is remembered as one of the standout summer editions from the house. While many annual flankers can feel repetitive or uninspired, this one garnered praise for its vibrant, natural-smelling opening and its departure from a simple aquatic formula. Its discontinuation means it now lives on the secondary market, often sought by collectors and those who missed its initial run. Its reputation is that of a high-quality, modern fresh scent that successfully captured its transportive concept, making it a benchmark for what a limited edition flanker can and should be.
The Nose Behind the Scent
Aurélien Guichard. A highly respected French perfumer from Grasse, known for creating blockbusters like Gucci Guilty Pour Homme and Versace Eros before founding his niche house, Matière Première.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
An explosive, photorealistic blast of zesty grapefruit and sharp lime. A subtle warmth from ginger and cardamom adds a spicy complexity. It''s incredibly bright, refreshing, and invigorating.
The initial citrus sparkle fades into a green, aromatic heart. Bitter galbanum and clean cypress take center stage, creating a cool, vegetal feel. Herbal rosemary and minty geranium provide support, evoking lush shoreline foliage.
A clean, modern, and airy finish. Earthy vetiver and cedar provide a soft woody backbone, while ambroxan and musk create a smooth, slightly salty skin scent that lasts for hours.
Performance Dashboard
Excellent for a fresh scent. Reliably lasts 6-7 hours on skin, and even longer on clothes.
Projects moderately for the first 1-2 hours, creating a noticeable arm''s-length scent bubble before settling closer to the skin.
Leaves a light, fresh trail that is pleasant but not overpowering. It''s noticeable in close quarters but won''t fill a room.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Unique and exceptionally realistic grapefruit opening.
- ✅ Sophisticated green, aromatic heart that sets it apart.
- ✅ Great performance for a fresh summer fragrance.
- ✅ High-quality composition that feels natural and well-blended.
- ❌ Limited edition, making it difficult to find and expensive on reseller markets.
- ❌ The bitter galbanum note can be challenging for some palettes.
- ❌ Not versatile enough for year-round or formal wear.
Price & Value
“Worth the original retail price. At current reseller prices, it is only recommended for dedicated collectors or those who absolutely love the scent profile.”
📜 Reformulation History
As a single-year limited edition release from 2019, there are no known reformulations or significant batch variations. All bottles should be consistent.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The opening delivers a concentrated burst of zesty grapefruit and sharp lime, amplified by a richer ginger and cardamom spice. It''s an intensely bright and invigorating start that holds its presence longer than the EDT.
The initial citrus gives way to a deeper, more pronounced green and marine heart. Salty sea notes blend seamlessly with bitter galbanum and robust cypress, underpinned by a fuller geranium. This phase is more substantial and enduring.
The drydown is a sophisticated, long-lasting blend of earthy vetiver and warm cedar. Ambroxan and musk create a prominent, smooth, and slightly salty skin scent with enhanced depth and projection, lingering for many hours.
Performance Dashboard
Lasts 8-10 hours reliably, with a noticeable scent trail.
Strong projection for the first 2-3 hours, then a moderate bubble.
Leaves a consistent, moderate sillage that is noticeable without being overwhelming.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Enhanced longevity and projection compared to EDT
- ✅ Richer, more rounded scent profile
- ✅ Versatile for warmer weather due to robust performance
- ✅ Maintains refreshing aquatic DNA with added depth
- ❌ Higher price tag
- ❌ Could be perceived as too intense in very high heat if oversprayed
- ❌ Limited availability as a flanker
Price & Value
“Offers a significant performance upgrade over the EDT, justifying the higher price point for those seeking longevity.”
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The opening is a sophisticated blend of rich grapefruit, warm ginger, and spicy cardamom, offering a deeper and less fleeting freshness than the Eau de Toilette. It presents an immediate warmth and density.
The heart reveals a pronounced green and aromatic core with galbanum, cypress, and rosemary, providing a robust and enduring herbal character. These notes are intensified, giving a more substantial presence than the lighter EDT.
The drydown is long-lasting and profound, dominated by earthy vetiver, robust cedarwood, creamy ambroxan, and a prominent patchouli note, softened by a lingering musk. This phase is richer and more complex, lasting significantly longer.
Performance Dashboard
Lasts 10-12 hours with significant presence, consistent with higher Parfum oil concentration.
Strong projection for the first 3-4 hours, then settles into a moderate but consistent aura, characteristic of a Parfum''s depth.
Leaves a noticeable and heavy trail initially, diminishing gracefully but remaining detectable for an extended period.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Richer and more complex scent profile due to higher oil concentration.
- ✅ Significantly improved longevity and sillage.
- ✅ Deep and sophisticated aroma ideal for cooler weather.
- ✅ Excellent projection for a Parfum.
- ❌ Higher price tag compared to the EDT.
- ❌ Less versatile for warm weather due to its intensity.
- ❌ May be too heavy for those who prefer lighter fragrances.
Price & Value
“The higher price point is justified by its superior concentration, enhanced longevity, and richer scent profile compared to the EDT.”
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Men aged 20-50 who enjoy modern, fresh, and green-citrus fragrances.
- Fans of the original L''Eau d''Issey looking for a high-quality summer variant.
- Individuals with a relaxed, casual style.
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Those who prefer heavy, sweet, or spicy ''beast mode'' scents.
- Anyone seeking a formal evening or cold-weather fragrance.
The Family
This fragrance is part of the yearly summer flanker collection, each with a different theme.
A darker, spicier, and more formal take on the original DNA.
An even fresher, more aquatic and ozonic version of the original.
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares a prominent, realistic grapefruit note but is woodier.
Similar lime and vetiver combination, but more elegant and less tropical.
A luxury take on sparkling grapefruit with superior performance and a much higher price tag.
💡 Clone Alternatives
Not a direct clone, but offers a similar fresh, casual, aquatic vibe for a very low price.
Provides a citrus-spicy profile that fulfills a similar role as a versatile, budget-friendly summer scent.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
For its simple, elegant, and high-quality citrus focus.
For a deeper, more mineralic take on a modern aquatic.
For another excellent take on a zesty, icy citrus with a mineral backbone.
More from Issey Miyake
🧪 Layering Ideas
- Molecule 01 (Iso E Super) to enhance the woody base and improve projection.
- A simple vetiver fragrance to amplify the earthy, green drydown.
- A light grapefruit or lime cologne to refresh the top notes throughout the day.
🏆 Final Verdict
Issey Miyake L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme Shade of Lagoon is a superb summer fragrance that stands as a high point in the brand''s long line of limited editions. Its blend of photorealistic citrus, unique green notes, and a modern musky base is both creative and exceptionally wearable. It delivers on its promise of a tropical escape in a bottle.
The crucial factor is its discontinued status. For the dedicated collector or someone who has already fallen for its charm, paying the premium on the secondary market is a justifiable expense for a truly special scent. However, for the average consumer, the hunt and inflated cost are impractical. It''s a fantastic fragrance, but one whose time on the primary market has passed. Buy it if you find a good deal and love its profile; otherwise, explore the excellent, readily available alternatives.