Capturing Sunlight: A Deep Dive into Issey Miyake's L'Eau d'Issey Summer Edition by Kevin Lucbert
A Mediterranean Daydream in a Bottle, Illustrated by Art
There are fragrances, and then there are moments captured in glass. Some scents are merely pleasant accessories, but a select few are transportive, acting as a key to a memory you haven't even made yet. This is the magic I chase, the feeling I live for. And every so often, a bottle lands on my desk that feels less like a product and more like a poem. Today, my darlings, we're talking about one such creation: the 2022 L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Summer Edition, a vibrant collaboration with the artist Kevin Lucbert.
The original L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme, launched in 1994, was a seismic event in men's fragrance. It was a pillar of crystalline water and yuzu, a clean, minimalist statement that cut through the noise of the era's heavier scents. It became a legend. Since then, Issey Miyake has cultivated a beautiful tradition: the annual summer flanker. These aren't just cash-grabs; they are yearly reinterpretations, olfactory postcards from an idealized summer. Each year, the brand collaborates with an artist to dress the iconic bottle, making each edition a fleeting, collectible piece of art. The 2022 edition, with its dreamlike, blue-ink illustrations by Kevin Lucbert, feels particularly special. It promised a journey, and I was more than ready to take it.
In a market saturated with 'blue' and 'fresh' fragrances that often feel like copies of copies, this limited edition positions itself as something more thoughtful. It's not just about smelling clean; it's about feeling a specific type of clean. It's the feeling of emerging from the cool Mediterranean sea, your skin salty and warm, as you walk under a canopy of pine trees. The concept, brought to life by Lucbert's art, is a narrative of water's journey, from arctic ice to the sun-drenched coast. It's a scent that asks you to slow down, to breathe in, to feel the sun on your face. It's an aspirational scent, not of wealth, but of experience.
Within the fragrance community, these summer editions are met with a unique blend of excitement and gentle resignation. We know they won't last forever, and that's part of their charm. They are the fireflies of the perfume world—brilliant, beautiful, and gone too soon. The 2022 edition, in particular, has been praised for its stunning visual design and its successful marriage of the classic L'Eau d'Issey aquatic DNA with a distinctly green, aromatic, and woody character. It’s seen as one of the more unique and evocative summer flankers in recent memory, a true artist's interpretation of a timeless classic.
The Nose Behind the Scent
A collaboration by a trio of celebrated perfumers: Dora Baghriche, Marie Salamagne, and Daphné Bugey. Their combined expertise from houses like Yves Saint Laurent, Jo Malone, and Kenzo resulted in this nuanced and artistic composition.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
An exhilarating, photorealistic blast of zesty lemon peel and bright bergamot, fused with the signature Issey Miyake watery Calone note. It feels like diving into a cool sea on a hot day – instantly refreshing and mood-lifting.
The initial citrus sparkle softens into a sophisticated, green heart. A cool, breezy eucalyptus note (not at all medicinal) blends with the peppery, herbaceous character of basil. It's the scent of a coastal herb garden kissed by sea spray.
The fragrance settles into a stunningly clean and dry woody base. Sun-warmed cypress, crisp pine, and a hint of resinous fir create the feeling of a coastal forest. It becomes an intimate skin scent, reminiscent of warm skin after a day outdoors.
Performance Dashboard
Lasts a solid 5-6 hours on skin, which is good performance for a fresh, citrus-heavy Eau de Toilette.
Projects moderately for the first 1-2 hours, creating a pleasant, fresh aura before settling closer to the skin.
Leaves a light, airy trail that is noticeable but not overwhelming. It invites people closer rather than announcing your presence.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Stunning, artistic limited edition bottle design
- ✅ Incredibly refreshing and natural-smelling scent profile
- ✅ Unique woody-aromatic drydown sets it apart from typical aquatics
- ✅ Perfectly suited for high heat and summer weather
- ✅ A collectible piece for fans of the L'Eau d'Issey line
- ❌ Moderate longevity requires reapplication for all-day wear
- ❌ As a limited edition, it can be difficult to find after its release year
- ❌ Projection becomes soft after the first couple of hours
Price & Value
“Absolutely worth it for collectors and fans of the line. For the quality of the scent and the artistry of the bottle, it offers good value as a unique summer fragrance.”
📜 Reformulation History
As a single-year limited edition (2022), there are no known reformulations or significant batch variations to be concerned with.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The initial burst is a vivid symphony of zesty Bergamot and tangy Grapefruit, immediately refreshed by a crisp Marine Accord. It’s a brighter, more assertive opening than the EDT, hinting at the depth to come.
As the citrus softens, the heart unfolds with aromatic Basil and a vibrant Geranium, beautifully balanced by the delicate, almost dewy touch of Water Lily. This phase is where the EDP truly distinguishes itself, offering a more nuanced and floral-green complexity compared to the EDT's simpler herbal core.
The fragrance settles into a sophisticated and enduring base. Dry Cypress and earthy Vetiver provide a robust woody foundation, softened and warmed by the subtle richness of Amberwood. This is where the EDP's longevity shines, leaving a refined, elegant trail that feels grounded yet still airy.
Performance Dashboard
Lasts a commendable 8-10 hours on skin, truly impressing for a summer-themed fragrance.
Projects moderately to strongly for the first 3-4 hours, creating a noticeable but not overwhelming aura.
Leaves a lovely, moderate trail that catches attention without being intrusive.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Deeper, richer scent profile with added floral nuances
- ✅ Significantly improved longevity and projection
- ✅ More suitable for evening wear or cooler summer days
- ✅ Elegant and complex evolution
- ❌ Higher price point than the EDT
- ❌ Might be too intense for very high heat and humidity
- ❌ Less purely 'light and airy' than its EDT counterpart
Price & Value
“A worthwhile investment for enhanced depth and staying power, especially for those who found the EDT too fleeting.”
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The opening is a vibrant burst of juicy mandarin, immediately softened by a deep marine accord and a subtle, peppery lift from elemi. It’s brighter than expected for a Parfum, yet with an undeniable richness from the start.
As it settles, the heart blooms with an intensified green freshness. The eucalyptus is richer, less sharp, beautifully complemented by the herbaceous basil and a distinct, slightly salty depth from seaweed absolute. It feels like a lush, aromatic garden by the sea.
The true magic unfolds in the drydown, where the scent becomes a warm, embracing presence. Alaskan cypress and fir balsam resinoid provide a grounding, forest-like woodiness, while ambrette seed introduces a soft, sophisticated muskiness that lingers beautifully, giving it incredible depth and staying power.
Performance Dashboard
Lasts a remarkable 9-12 hours on skin, truly a marathon runner.
Projects strongly for the first 3-4 hours, creating a noticeable aura.
Leaves a beautiful, lingering trail that subtly announces your presence.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Significantly richer and deeper scent profile than the EDT
- ✅ Outstanding longevity for a fresh-leaning fragrance
- ✅ Stronger projection creates a commanding presence
- ✅ Sophisticated and complex evolution
- ❌ Higher price tag
- ❌ Can be too intense for extremely hot, humid weather
- ❌ Less 'airy' and casual than its EDT counterpart
Price & Value
“A higher price point is thoroughly justified by its superior concentration, richer scent profile, and exceptional longevity.”
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
A concentrated burst of zesty lemon and bright bergamot, immediately lifted by a playful spark of pink pepper, setting a vibrant, yet profound tone that hints at the depth to come.
The green heart emerges, a richer, deeper embrace of herbaceous basil and cool eucalyptus, now intertwined with the elegant, slightly rosy-green facet of geranium. The woody undertones begin to surface, hinting at the forest floor with sophisticated complexity.
A profound, grounding finish. The rich, resinous warmth of balsam fir absolute unfurls, supported by the noble dryness of Atlas cedarwood and the sophisticated, long-lasting embrace of amberwood. It's a deep, aromatic forest, warm, inviting, and utterly captivating.
Performance Dashboard
Lasts 10-12 hours, clinging beautifully to skin and fabric, a true all-day companion.
Strong, noticeable presence for the first 3-4 hours, then settles to a comfortable, enveloping aura.
Leaves a captivating trail, a whisper of a deep, aromatic forest that intrigues those in your wake.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Profound depth and richness in scent
- ✅ Exceptional longevity and sillage
- ✅ More sophisticated and mature take on the original
- ✅ Perfectly suited for cooler weather and evening wear
- ❌ Higher price point compared to the EDT
- ❌ Less versatile for warm weather, can be heavy
- ❌ Might be too intense for those who prefer lighter fragrances
Price & Value
“A higher investment, but the enhanced depth, complexity, and exceptional longevity make it worthwhile for those who crave intensity and presence.”
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Men and women (unisex)
- Ages 20+
- Lovers of fresh, aquatic, and natural-smelling citrus scents
- Individuals with a relaxed, chic, and artistic style
- Collectors of limited edition fragrances and bottle designs
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Those seeking a heavy, long-lasting 'beast mode' fragrance
- Fans of sweet, gourmand, or intensely spicy scents
- Formal evening occasions in colder weather
The Family
The subsequent year's annual artistic summer flanker with a different scent profile and bottle design.
A travel-friendly version of the original EDT with a cap that doubles as a 20ml atomizer.
A flanker focusing on a powerful, woody vetiver note, launched in 2023.
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares the iconic aquatic-citrus DNA but is less woody and more floral/fruity in the heart.
Features a similar simple, elegant, and high-quality citrus profile, but focuses on bergamot and grapefruit blossom over aquatic and pine notes.
A similar Mediterranean vibe with citrus and light woods, but with a distinct starfruit note and a spicier character.
💡 Clone Alternatives
Offers a similar fresh, aquatic, and breezy vibe at a fraction of the cost, though it's simpler and more focused on a green apple note.
Often compared to Acqua di Gio, it captures the aquatic-citrus feel that fans of the Issey Miyake Summer edition would appreciate, with added spice.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
For those who love the Mediterranean woody-aromatic theme and are looking for a more luxurious, complex, and year-round option.
Shares a powerful, realistic citrus opening (grapefruit) with a woody, earthy base, appealing to the same audience.
Another iconic aquatic that focuses on a more marine, salty, and seaweed-like accord, for those who love the 'scent of the sea'.
More from Issey Miyake
🧪 Layering Ideas
- Molecule 01 (Iso E Super) to enhance the woody base and improve longevity.
- A light neroli fragrance (like Tom Ford Neroli Portofino) to amplify the bright citrus opening.
- A simple, clean musk scent to add a soft, comforting layer to the drydown.
🏆 Final Verdict
In a world of fleeting trends, the Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Summer Edition by Kevin Lucbert feels like a timeless memory. It's more than just a flanker; it's a complete sensory experience. The art on the bottle, the story behind the scent, and the beautiful evolution on the skin all work in perfect harmony.
You should buy this fragrance if you are a collector of beautiful things. You should buy it if you are a lover of the original L'Eau d'Issey and want to experience its soul through a new lens. But most importantly, you should buy it if you want to own a piece of summer. It’s an olfactory passport to a perfect, sun-drenched day on the Mediterranean coast, a day where worries drift away on the sea breeze. It's a reminder that sometimes, the greatest luxury is a simple, beautiful moment. And this bottle is full of them.