Issey Miyake Pleats Please Eau de Parfum 2013: A Review of the Sculptural Scent
An olfactory homage to the iconic textile, Pleats Please Eau de Parfum translates architectural fashion into an ethereal, enduring fragrance.
In the annals of fashion and fragrance, 2013 marked a significant moment for the House of Issey Miyake. The brand, already renowned for its minimalist aesthetic and technological innovation in textiles, sought to translate one of its most iconic creations into an olfactory form. Pleats Please, the revolutionary garment line conceived in 1993 by designer Issey Miyake, was not merely clothing; it was a philosophy of freedom, movement, and sculptural beauty. The launch of Pleats Please Eau de Parfum was thus an ambitious endeavor to capture the very essence of that philosophy—the whisper of fine pleats, the lightness of movement, and the intellectual elegance that defines the brand.
Positioned within the brand's fragrance portfolio, Pleats Please Eau de Parfum occupies a distinct space. It diverges from the legendary aquatic freshness of L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme and the floral-aquatic signature of L'Eau d'Issey for women. Instead, it carves a niche as an abstract, almost architectural fragrance. It is less about a specific landscape or flower and more about an idea—a sensation. This conceptual approach aligns perfectly with the brand's avant-garde spirit, offering a scent for the individual who appreciates design as much as they do perfume.
The inspiration is unequivocally the Pleats Please garment itself. The concept was to bottle the sensation of wearing these unique pieces: the soft rustle, the weightless texture, the interplay of light and shadow on the folded fabric. The perfumer was tasked with creating a scent that felt like a second skin, an invisible layer of sophistication that moved with the wearer. It aimed to be an extension of the clothing line's ethos—practical yet poetic, simple yet complex, modern yet timeless.
Within the fragrance community, Pleats Please Eau de Parfum has cultivated a reputation as a sophisticated sleeper hit. It is not a loud, trend-chasing composition but a refined, intellectual scent appreciated by connoisseurs of minimalist and abstract perfumery. Its cultural impact lies in its successful translation of a tactile, visual design concept into a purely olfactory experience. It stands as a testament to the potential of fashion fragrances when they are conceived as genuine artistic extensions of a brand's core identity, rather than mere commercial licences. For those in the know, it represents a quiet, enduring elegance in a market often dominated by transient sweetness and overpowering sillage.
The Nose Behind the Scent
The fragrance was composed by perfumer Daphné Bugey. A graduate of the prestigious ISIPCA in Versailles, Bugey has built a formidable career at Firmenich, crafting scents for brands like Gucci, Armani, and Narciso Rodriguez. Her signature often involves a delicate balance of fresh, floral, and musky accords, showcasing a talent for creating fragrances that are both complex and effortlessly wearable. Other notable creations from her oeuvre include the luminous Gucci Bloom, the sensual Narciso Rodriguez for Her Eau de Parfum, and the vibrant Armani Si Fiori, demonstrating her versatility and keen understanding of modern femininity.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The fragrance opens with a burst of crystalline freshness, not sharp or citrus-dominant, but a dewy, airy accord. The bergamot and mandarin provide a sun-dappled sparkle, while the lily of the valley introduces a green, watery facet that immediately evokes the crisp, clean texture of finely pleated fabric. This initial phase is remarkably transparent and weightless, setting the stage for the scent's ethereal character.
As the top notes dissipate, the heart of the fragrance unfolds like a bouquet of petals caught in a gentle breeze. The peony is central—soft, rosy, and slightly powdery, but rendered with an aquatic freshness that prevents it from becoming cloying. It is supported by the clean, green sweetness of freesia and the subtle, creamy nuance of magnolia. The rose is not a grand, damascena rose but a modern, dewy tea rose, adding a layer of delicate sophistication. This floral chorus is remarkably diaphanous, creating an impression of flowers seen through a veil of fine gauze.
The final act is where Pleats Please reveals its subtle strength and intellect. The florals recede into a soft, skin-hugging blend of clean white musk and warm, dry cedarwood. A whisper of amber provides a gentle, radiant warmth, while the signature synthetic molecule Iso E Super works its magic, imparting a velvety, slightly peppery woodiness that feels both intimate and expansive. This drydown is exceptionally refined—a soft, musky-woody veil that lingers for hours, perfectly mimicking the idea of a scent that has become one with the wearer's skin and clothing.
Performance Dashboard
It demonstrates very good longevity for an Eau de Parfum of its delicate nature, typically lasting 7 to 9 hours on skin. On clothing, it can persist well into the following day.
Projection is moderate and intimate. It creates a personal scent bubble of about an arm's length for the first 2-3 hours before settling closer to the skin. It is not a room-filling fragrance, which aligns with its elegant, discreet character.
The sillage is soft and subtle. It leaves a faint, elegant trail rather than an imposing one. This makes it ideal for situations where one wishes to be discovered, not announced.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Exceptionally unique and intellectual scent profile inspired by fashion
- ✅ Perfect for office and daytime wear due to its discreet, non-offensive nature
- ✅ High-quality ingredients that create a seamless, elegant blend
- ✅ Excellent longevity for a fresh floral fragrance
- ✅ Beautiful bottle design that reflects the Pleats Please aesthetic
- ❌ Sillage and projection may be too subtle for those who enjoy bold fragrances
- ❌ The abstract, non-sweet profile may not appeal to mainstream tastes
- ❌ Can sometimes be perceived as slightly aloof or detached due to its coolness
Price & Value
“It represents strong value for money within the designer segment. The price is justified by its unique concept, quality of composition, and elegant presentation. It is an investment in a distinctive, versatile scent rather than a fleeting trend.”
📜 Reformulation History
No significant, widely documented batch variations or reformulations have been reported for the 2013 Eau de Parfum. The fragrance has maintained a consistent profile since its launch, which is typical for a niche-inspired designer release with a stable production.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
A bright and effervescent burst of citrus and delicate floral aldehydes, immediately establishing an airy and luminous character.
The heart blossoms with a sophisticated bouquet of peony, freesia, and rose, softened by the creamy whisper of magnolia, creating a more transparent and graceful floral presence than its EDP counterpart.
A subtle and clean finish, where the musk and cedarwood provide a gentle, woody foundation without the pronounced amber richness found in the Eau de Parfum, allowing the floral notes to linger with an understated elegance.
Performance Dashboard
Moderately long-lasting, typically 6-8 hours.
Moderate projection, creating a pleasant aura.
Moderate trail, noticeable but not overwhelming.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Lighter and more ethereal scent profile
- ✅ Excellent for warmer weather
- ✅ Refreshing and uplifting
- ✅ More versatile for daily wear
- ❌ Shorter longevity
- ❌ Less pronounced sillage
- ❌ May require reapplication
- ❌ Less depth than EDP
Price & Value
“Accessible luxury, offering a refined experience at a more approachable price point.”
📜 Reformulation History
The original 1998 formulation of the Eau de Toilette for Pleats Please is known for its consistent clarity and floral radiance. While minor shifts in ingredient sourcing can occur over time, the core olfactory experience remains remarkably stable, preserving the intended airy and optimistic spirit of the fragrance.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The initial impression is a vibrant effervescence, dominated by the citrus zest of bergamot and mandarin, uplifted by the dewy freshness of lily of the valley. This bright, invigorating overture sets a buoyant and optimistic tone.
As the fragrance matures on the skin, the floral heart unfolds with remarkable grace. The dewy sweetness of peony and freesia intermingles with the classic elegance of rose and the creamy, slightly lemony facets of magnolia, creating a lush and radiant bouquet.
The base notes provide a sophisticated and enduring foundation. Sensual musk lends a creamy warmth, while cedarwood offers a clean, woody structure. The subtle, enveloping embrace of amber and the modern, diffusive character of Iso E Super create a lingering, refined aura that speaks of quiet confidence.
Performance Dashboard
Exhibits exceptional longevity, typically enduring 10-12 hours on the skin, with potential for even longer wear.
Offers a substantial projection, creating a noticeable scent bubble for the first 4-6 hours before settling into a more intimate, yet still discernible, presence.
Leaves a captivating and moderately dense trail, a signature of refined presence that is both memorable and elegant.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Exceptional longevity
- ✅ Radiant and uplifting scent profile
- ✅ Beautifully balanced floral heart
- ✅ Refined and modern drydown
- ✅ Superior projection
- ❌ Higher price point compared to EDT
- ❌ May be perceived as too potent for very sensitive individuals or formal evening wear in warmer climates
Price & Value
“The enhanced concentration and olfactory richness justify the premium positioning, offering a superior sensory experience.”
📜 Reformulation History
While the core olfactory structure remains consistent, subtle nuances in the intensity and diffusion of certain floral or woody components may be observed across different production batches, a common characteristic of high-quality fragrance formulations.
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Women (and men who enjoy floral musks) aged 25 and above who appreciate minimalist, intellectual design
- Individuals with a refined, understated personal style
- Those who prefer intimate, skin-scent fragrances over loud statements
- Fans of abstract, non-literal perfumery and fashion connoisseurs
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Those seeking a sweet, gourmand, or intensely seductive fragrance
- Individuals who prefer powerhouse projection and massive sillage
- Very young audiences who might find the composition too subtle or mature
The Family
A lighter, more citrus-aquatic interpretation launched in 2016, offering a brighter, more summery take on the original concept.
The original 1998 concentration, which is slightly lighter and more floral-green in character compared to the deeper, more musky 2013 EDP.
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares the intimate, skin-musk and peppery Iso E Super DNA, creating a personalized, your-skin-but-better effect, though You is less floral and more directly musky-woody.
Both feature a prominent, clean musk heart and floral facets (rose in Narciso, peony in Pleats Please), offering a sophisticated, modern feminine musk. The Narciso is denser and more floral-powdery.
Captures a similar ethereal, airy, and aquatic floral feeling with bamboo and musk notes, though Crystalline is more directly aquatic and less woody.
While fruitier, it shares the bright, dewy peony and musk character, presenting a different interpretation of a fresh, youthful floral-musk suitable for daytime.
💡 Clone Alternatives
Often cited for its fresh, clean, and slightly musky floral character that captures a similar 'clean linen' and delicate floral vibe at a fraction of the cost, though less complex.
As a pure, affordable musk blend with Iso E Super, it can mimic the intimate, skin-scent drydown of Pleats Please, though it lacks the sophisticated floral heart.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
Shares the ethos of capturing a feeling—clean linen, soft skin, and serene comfort—in a minimalist, musky-woody floral composition.
A more complex, carroty and powdery take on the skin musk genre, appealing to those who enjoy the intellectual, abstract quality of Pleats Please.
For those who adore the molecular, Iso E Super-driven drydown of Pleats Please and seek a more intense, less floral exploration of that synthetic-woody-musk accord.
While spicier, it appeals to the same audience that appreciates fragrances as artistic, conceptual statements linked to texture and place.
More from Issey Miyake
🧪 Layering Ideas
- A light, vanilla-centric fragrance like Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau de Parfum to add warmth and sweetness
- A crisp, woody cologne such as Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 to amplify the woody-musk backbone
- A simple, clean musk oil to bolster the intimate drydown and longevity
🏆 Final Verdict
Pleats Please Eau de Parfum is not merely a fragrance; it is a wearable piece of design philosophy. It succeeds brilliantly in its core mission: translating the tactile, visual, and conceptual genius of Issey Miyake's Pleats Please into an olfactory form. For the discerning individual, it offers a rare combination of attributes: it is intellectually stimulating yet effortlessly wearable, ethereally light yet surprisingly tenacious, and distinctly modern without being trend-driven.
One should purchase this fragrance if they seek an alternative to the ubiquitous sweet florals and gourmands that dominate the market. It is for the person whose style is defined by precision, thoughtfulness, and understated elegance. It performs admirably as a signature scent for professional environments and daily wear, providing a consistent aura of refined cleanliness and sophistication. While it may not command attention with brute force, it earns respect through its quiet confidence and impeccable composition.
In a landscape often crowded with derivative and loud creations, Pleats Please Eau de Parfum stands apart as a testament to the power of a clear, artistic vision. It is a fragrance that feels both personal and profound, a scent that, like the garments that inspired it, moves gracefully with you through the day, leaving a whisper of elegance in its wake. For those who understand that true luxury often speaks in a hushed tone, this is an essential addition to the olfactory wardrobe.