Introduction
The Laco Augsburg is a direct descendant of the legendary B-Uhr observation watches that equipped Luftwaffe navigators during World War II. While many brands have reinterpreted the flieger aesthetic, Laco remains one of the few with an unbroken lineage to the original five manufacturers. The Augsburg, named after the Bavarian city where Laco was founded in 1925, distills that heritage into a contemporary package that appeals to both history buffs and those seeking a rugged daily wearer.
At first glance, the Augsburg presents the classic Type B dial—a black face with a minute track occupying the outer ring and a smaller hour circle at the center. This layout, originally designed for quick readability during navigation, remains as functional today as it was eight decades ago. The 42mm stainless steel case is brushed to a matte finish, avoiding any glare that might compromise legibility. It's a watch that whispers 'purpose' rather than shouts 'luxury.'
For the young collector, the Augsburg offers an entry point into serious horology without the pretension of a dress watch or the bulk of a dive watch. It's a tool watch with a soul, and its price point makes it an accessible first step into the world of mechanical timepieces. But does it deliver on the promise of its heritage? Let's examine the details.
Manufacture History
Laco was founded in 1925 in Pforzheim, Germany, by two entrepreneurs who later moved production to Augsburg. The brand gained prominence during WWII when it was one of five companies (along with A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Stowa, and Wempe) contracted to produce the B-Uhr navigational watches for the Luftwaffe. These watches were designed for maximum legibility and precision, with a large 55mm case and a distinctive dial layout. After the war, Laco continued producing timepieces, eventually focusing on pilot watches that honored its military heritage. Today, Laco is known for its faithful recreations of the B-Uhr, as well as modern interpretations like the Augsburg.
Movement
Powering the Augsburg is the Laco 21, a self-winding movement based on the Miyota 821A. This Japanese calibre is a workhorse, known for its reliability and ease of service. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The movement features 21 jewels and includes hacking seconds, allowing for precise time-setting. While it lacks the decorative finishing of higher-end Swiss movements, the rotor is adorned with a perlage pattern and the Laco logo. It's not a movement that will impress a connoisseur, but it's robust and accurate enough for daily use. The Laco 21 is not COSC-certified, and Laco does not claim chronometer status. For the price, this is acceptable.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 42mm
- Case Thickness: 12.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 50mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel, brushed finish
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Water Resistance: 50 meters (5 ATM)
- Lume: Super-LumiNova BGW9 (blue glow)
- Strap: Brown leather with pin buckle
The case is solidly constructed with a screw-down caseback, though the water resistance is modest—suitable for rain and splashes, but not for swimming. The sapphire crystal is a welcome upgrade over the acrylic found on vintage models, and the anti-reflective coating ensures legibility in bright sunlight.
Wrist Feel
The 42mm case wears larger than its diameter suggests due to the long, straight lugs that extend to 50mm. On a 7-inch wrist, it sits flat and secure, though those with smaller wrists may find the lug overhang noticeable. The weight is moderate—not featherlight but not heavy—and the leather strap is supple from the first wear. The caseback is solid, which keeps the profile slim and prevents any hot spots. Overall, it's a comfortable companion for all-day wear, though the lack of quick-release spring bars means strap changes require a tool.
Accuracy
The Miyota 821A is known for its reliability rather than chronometer-grade precision. In my testing, the Augsburg ran at +12 seconds per day, which is within the -20 to +40 specification for the movement. It's not a watch you'd set by the atomic clock, but for a tool watch, it's perfectly acceptable. The hacking function allows you to sync it to a reference time if you're particular, but expect to adjust it every few days if you demand strict accuracy.
Occasions
The Augsburg is versatile enough for daily wear, casual outings, and even business settings if your office is relaxed. Its military heritage makes it a natural fit for sporty activities, though the 50m water resistance limits it to dry land. It's not a dress watch, but it can pass in a pinch if paired with a suit. For travel, the 42mm case is a good size, and the legible dial makes it easy to read in different time zones—though there's no GMT function.
Wrist Presence
4/5 - The Augsburg commands attention without being ostentatious. The black dial and matte case blend into most environments, but the distinctive Type B layout and the luminous markers ensure it's noticed by those in the know. It's a conversation starter for watch enthusiasts, yet subtle enough for a business casual setting.
Reference Variants
The reference 861988 is the standard Augsburg with a Type B dial and brown leather strap. Laco also offers the Augsburg with a Type A dial (reference 861989), which features hour markers on the outer track and a minute track inside. Both are available with either a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet, though the bracelet version is slightly more expensive. The dial options are limited to black, which is true to the original flieger design.
Family References
The Augsburg is part of Laco's 'Flieger' collection, which includes other city-named models like the Münster, Aachen, and Paderborn. These share the same case and movement but differ in dial design and size. The Münster, for example, is a 40mm version with a Type A dial, while the Aachen is a 42mm with a more modern interpretation. The Augsburg sits in the middle, offering a classic Type B dial at a popular size.
Other Notable Models by Laco
Beyond the Augsburg, Laco produces the Flieger Original series, which are faithful recreations of the WWII B-Uhr in 55mm and 42mm sizes. These feature the original onion crown and riveted leather straps. The Stuttgart is a more contemporary pilot watch with a date function and a cleaner dial. For those seeking a dressier option, the Leipzig offers a slim case and a minimalist design.
Similar Watches
If you're considering the Augsburg, you might also look at the Stowa Flieger Klassik 40, which offers a similar Type B dial and a higher-grade ETA movement. The IWC Mark XVIII is a more premium alternative with a cleaner dial and superior finishing, but it costs three times as much. Archimede, another German brand, offers a Pilot 42 with a similar aesthetic at a slightly lower price.
Homages
For those on a tight budget, the Parnis Flieger Type B is a quartz homage that captures the look for under $100. It lacks the mechanical movement and build quality, but it's a fun beater. Other microbrands like Steinhart and Laco's own 'Basic' line offer more affordable mechanical options.
Investment Value
The Laco Augsburg is not an investment piece. Its MSRP is $850, and the pre-owned market typically sees prices between $600 and $750. The value is stable—it won't appreciate significantly, but it also won't plummet. If you're looking for a watch to wear and enjoy, the Augsburg is a solid choice. If you're hoping to flip it for a profit, look elsewhere. Auction history is non-existent for this model, as it's a production watch with no scarcity.
Service Interval
Laco recommends a service every 5 years. The cost for a full service is approximately $300, which is reasonable for a movement of this type. You can have it serviced by Laco directly or by any competent watchmaker familiar with Miyota movements. The movement is not exclusive, so parts are readily available.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Authentic B-Uhr heritage
- Excellent legibility with Super-LumiNova
- Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Comfortable 42mm size
- Reasonable price for a mechanical pilot watch
Cons
- Movement is not in-house and lacks finesse
- Water resistance only 50m—not suitable for swimming
- Leather strap is basic and may need replacement
- No quick-release spring bars
- Lug-to-lug may be too long for small wrists
Final Verdict
The Laco Augsburg is a faithful tribute to the classic flieger, offering a genuine piece of horological history at an accessible price. It's not a showpiece of haute horlogerie, but it excels as a rugged, legible daily companion. If you value heritage and function over prestige, the Augsburg is a worthy addition to any collection.
