Le Labo Neroli 36: A Vivir Reporter's Unfiltered Review
Le Labo, founded in 2006 by Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi, carved a distinctive niche in the luxury perfumery world by emphasizing craftsmanship, raw ingredients, and a ''slow perfumery'' approach. Their fragrances are famously blended fresh at the point of sale, a unique retail experience that underscores their commitment to quality and artisanal creation. Neroli 36, launched as part of their initial collection, embodies this foundational philosophy, focusing on a single, high-quality ingredient elevated to its purest form.
In a market often saturated with overly complex, and sometimes overtly synthetic, compositions, Le Labo positioned itself as an artisanal alternative. Each fragrance is named after its most prominent note, followed by a number that often hints at the ingredient count or the complexity of its formula. Neroli 36 stands as a testament to their ability to elevate a seemingly simple floral note into a sophisticated, wearable art form. It offers a more universally appealing, bright, and clean profile compared to some of their more polarizing creations like Santal 33 or Another 13, making it a strong contender for those seeking elegant simplicity.
The inspiration for Neroli 36 is, unequivocally, the neroli flower itself – the essential oil derived from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree. Le Labo''s core concept was to create a neroli that wasn''t merely a fleeting top note, used to provide an initial burst of freshness, but rather the very heart and soul of the perfume. It is supported by a carefully curated selection of other elements, all designed to give the central neroli note depth, longevity, and a multi-faceted character. The ''36'' in its name suggests the intricate balance and thoughtful combination of components that allow the neroli to truly shine, moving beyond a simple soliflore to a profoundly nuanced interpretation.
Neroli 36 has garnered a reputation for being one of the most natural, authentic, and uplifting neroli fragrances available on the market today. While it may not command the same widespread pop-cultural recognition as some of its woody or musky counterparts from the brand, it holds a strong and revered position among connoisseurs of clean, crisp, and elegantly crafted white florals. It is often lauded for its pure, uplifting quality and its remarkable ability to evoke a sense of sun-drenched Mediterranean warmth and undeniable freshness, making it a quiet but firm favorite in the luxury fragrance community. It is widely regarded as a sophisticated choice for those who appreciate understated elegance and natural beauty over loud, attention-grabbing statements.
The Nose Behind the Scent
Nathalie Lorson. A prolific and respected perfumer, Nathalie Lorson has created fragrances for numerous prestigious houses. Her work is often characterized by elegance, precision, and an ability to craft scents that feel both modern and timeless. Notable creations include Bentley for Men Absolute, Encre Noire by Lalique, and fragrances for Chopard and Dolce & Gabbana.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The initial spray of Neroli 36 is an immediate burst of bright, sparkling neroli. It’s fresh, slightly green, and has a distinct bitter orange zestiness that makes it feel incredibly vibrant and natural. The lemon and mandarin add a sunny, uplifting quality without being overly sweet or sharp. This opening is invigorating and sets a clear expectation for the scent''s direction.
As the fragrance settles, typically within 30 minutes to an hour, the sharp edges of the citrus mellow. The neroli remains prominent, but it''s now beautifully supported by a soft, elegant bouquet of white florals. Jasmine and orange blossom emerge, adding a creamy, slightly indolic sweetness that complements the neroli rather than overpowering it. A subtle hint of rose provides depth, preventing the floral heart from becoming too singular.
The drydown, which becomes noticeable after 3-4 hours, sees the floral notes gracefully recede, leaving behind a warm, clean, and comforting base. A refined musk provides a soft, skin-like embrace, while amber adds a gentle, resinous warmth. There''s a whisper of vanilla and tonka bean, lending a delicate sweetness that rounds out the composition. The neroli, though softer, still subtly lingers, maintaining the fragrance''s core identity until the very end.
Performance Dashboard
Neroli 36 offers solid longevity for a fresh, floral EDP. Expect it to last a consistent 6-8 hours on skin, and often longer on clothing. It transitions from a vibrant opening to a pleasant skin scent without disappearing abruptly.
For the first 2-3 hours, Neroli 36 projects moderately, reaching about an arm''s length. It''s noticeable without being intrusive, making it suitable for professional or intimate settings. After this, it settles closer to the skin.
The sillage of Neroli 36 is soft to moderate. It leaves a subtle, clean, and elegant trail that is pleasant and inviting without overwhelming a room. It’s a scent that draws people in rather than announcing itself from afar.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Neroli 36 consistently receives positive feedback. Its clean, fresh, and sophisticated profile is widely appealing, often described as ''beautiful'' or ''smells amazing.'' It’s generally a safe compliment-getter, particularly in warmer weather, due to its uplifting and non-offensive nature.
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Authentic, natural-smelling neroli note that feels incredibly high-quality.
- ✅ Clean, uplifting, and sophisticated scent profile, perfect for everyday elegance.
- ✅ Excellent versatility across seasons (barring deep winter) and occasions.
- ✅ Good longevity for a fresh floral, lasting well throughout the day.
- ✅ Non-offensive and office-friendly, projects refinement without being loud.
- ✅ Unique signature scent potential for those who appreciate understated luxury.
- ❌ Premium price point, placing it in the luxury category and potentially out of reach for some.
- ❌ Some may find the linear focus on neroli to be less complex or ''exciting'' than other niche offerings.
- ❌ Not ideal for cold weather or occasions requiring a heavy, warm, or powerful scent.
- ❌ While natural, some might perceive it as too ''soapy'' or ''clean'' if they prefer sweeter or richer profiles.
Price & Value
“Neroli 36 is a luxury item, and its price reflects Le Labo''s brand positioning and commitment to high-quality ingredients. For neroli enthusiasts or those seeking a truly refined, natural-smelling floral, it is absolutely worth the investment for its quality, performance, and unique character. However, for casual buyers, it might feel like a significant splurge.”
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Individuals aged 25-55+
- Those who appreciate high-quality, natural-smelling white florals
- People with a refined, sophisticated, and clean aesthetic
- Anyone seeking an uplifting and elegant signature scent for warm weather
- Fragrance enthusiasts who prioritize ingredient quality over bold statements.
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Those who prefer heavy, complex, or overtly sweet gourmand fragrances
- Individuals sensitive to prominent white floral notes
- Anyone looking for a loud, clubbing-style scent
- Those on a strict budget, as Le Labo is a luxury brand.
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares a bright, zesty, and luxurious neroli-dominant profile, though Neroli Portofino leans slightly greener and more aquatic.
A clean and crisp neroli and orange blossom scent, often compared for its naturalistic feel and uplifting citrus-floral blend.
A classic Italian cologne with prominent neroli, citrus, and herbal notes, offering a similar sophisticated and timeless freshness.
A simpler, more direct interpretation of orange blossom and water lily, offering a light and airy take on the white floral theme.
💡 Clone Alternatives
Often cited as a very close inspiration of Tom Ford''s Neroli Portofino, and by extension, shares a similar bright neroli DNA with Neroli 36 at a fraction of the cost.
A direct interpretation designed to capture the essence of high-end neroli fragrances, offering a budget-friendly way to experience the accord.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
For those who appreciate clean, woody, and slightly bohemian scents with a natural feel, similar to Le Labo''s aesthetic.
If you enjoy sophisticated, well-blended woody scents with a luxurious feel, you might appreciate the quality and craftsmanship.
For a similarly elegant, clean, and slightly sweet floral-musk profile that is both unique and versatile.
Another excellent neroli/orange blossom focused fragrance that offers a beautiful, natural, and slightly more complex citrus-floral experience.
More from Le Labo
🧪 Layering Ideas
- A light musk oil or spray to enhance longevity and add a soft, clean base.
- A simple vanilla fragrance for added warmth and a touch of creamy sweetness in the drydown.
- A pure citrus cologne (e.g., bergamot or grapefruit) to amplify the fresh opening for a short burst.
- A subtle woody scent, like sandalwood, to give it more grounding and depth for cooler evenings.
🏆 Final Verdict
Le Labo Neroli 36 is far more than just another neroli scent; it represents Le Labo''s masterclass in elevating a classic, beloved note to its purest, most sophisticated form. It delivers a clean, incredibly elegant, and genuinely uplifting olfactory experience that stands apart in a crowded market. If you find yourself weary of overly sweet, heavy, or synthetic fragrances, Neroli 36 offers a refreshing and refined escape. It''s a scent that subtly communicates understated luxury, effortless elegance, and an appreciation for natural beauty.
For those in pursuit of a signature scent that projects confidence, discernment, and refinement without ever needing to shout, Neroli 36 is an exceptional candidate. Its remarkable versatility across nearly all seasons and a wide array of occasions makes it a particularly smart and practical investment for the discerning fragrance wearer. While its price point firmly places it in the luxury category, the unparalleled quality of its ingredients, the meticulous craftsmanship, and the unique, natural development of the scent on skin more than justify the cost for those who prioritize true value in their fragrance choices.
Ultimately, Neroli 36 is perfectly suited for the individual who appreciates clarity, uncompromising quality, and a distinct touch of sun-drenched sophistication in their daily life. This isn''t a fragrance about chasing fleeting trends; it''s about embracing timeless appeal, enduring elegance, and a beautifully executed, authentic rendition of one of perfumery''s most cherished and versatile notes. Make no mistake, this is a fragrance that not only earns its prominent place on your vanity but also earns the admiration of those around you.