# MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T – A Feminine Flight into Haute Horology The MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T (reference 05.WSL.B) arrived in 2019 as the Swiss maison’s first watch expressly created for women. From the moment it lifts its domed sapphire crystal, the piece announces itself as a kinetic sculpture rather than a conventional time‑piece. A central flying 60‑second tourbillon, tipped with a single diamond, hovers above a 50°‑inclined dial that reads hours and minutes from a bold “7 o’clock” position. Beneath the tourbillon, a sun‑shaped rotor powers an automatic, in‑house caliber that promises a 100‑hour reserve. The result is a watch that is simultaneously a statement of technical ambition and a celebration of feminine elegance—yet it also raises the usual questions of wearability, price, and the balance between art and practicality. --- ## Heritage — the model's place in the brand's line and its launch context MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) has built its reputation on “horological machines” that reinterpret classic complications through avant‑garde engineering and sculptural design. The Legacy Machine collection, introduced in 2015 with the LM Perpetual, re‑examines the traditional dress‑watch format, stripping it back to its essential architecture while injecting the brand’s signature kinetic flair. The Flying T extends that lineage but does so with a clear gender focus. According to the brand, it is “the first MB&F watch dedicated to women,” a milestone announced in early 2019. Its genesis is linked to founder Maximilian Büsser’s reflections on the “keystone roles that women have played in his life,” positioning the piece as both a technical achievement and a personal tribute. While the Legacy Machine line has always been about re‑imagining the dress watch, the Flying T pushes the concept further by marrying high‑complication movement architecture with a design language that deliberately avoids the “preciousness and affectation” often associated with luxury women’s watches. The model debuted alongside three primary variations—black lacquer, pavé‑diamond, and baguette‑diamond—each set in 18 K white gold and priced from US $115 000 to US $315 000, underscoring MB&F’s intent to occupy the upper echelon of the women’s haute‑horlogerie market. --- ## Design & Case — case dimensions, materials, dial ### Size and construction * **Case diameter:** 38.5 mm * **Thickness:** 20 mm (as specified by the manufacturer) * **Material:** 18 K white gold, with extensive diamond setting in the two premium variants * **Crystal:** Domed sapphire, protecting the central tourbillon and giving the watch a slightly convex profile The case’s 38.5 mm diameter places the Flying T on the larger side of contemporary women’s watches, a deliberate choice that allows the kinetic tourbillon to be seen without obstruction. The 20 mm thickness, while substantial, is a consequence of the watch’s complex architecture and the protective domed crystal; the brand does not explicitly attribute the depth to any single component, but the figure is confirmed in the technical sheet. ### Dial composition The dial is a study in angular drama. Hours and minutes are displayed on a dial plate that is tilted 50° toward the wearer, anchored at the 7 o’clock position. This inclination not only makes the numerals instantly legible but also reinforces the sense of forward motion that the brand seeks to convey. Three primary dial finishes are offered: | Variant | Dial finish | Diamond treatment | |---------|-------------|-------------------| | Black lacquer | Matte black lacquer on the dial plate | No diamonds (baseline model) | | Pavé‑diamond | Lacquered dial with a full pavé of brilliant‑cut diamonds | Surface fully encrusted | | Baguette‑diamond | Lacquered dial with baguette‑cut diamonds set in a geometric pattern | Surface fully encrusted, higher price point | All three share a central sun‑shaped rotor, a visual nod to the watch’s automatic winding system. The rotor is visible through the domed crystal, rotating slowly as the wearer moves and feeding energy to the mainspring. The tourbillon itself is perched on a single diamond, adding a pinpoint of sparkle that draws the eye upward. ### Aesthetic balance The design manages to be “feminine without being ‘affected’,” a phrase that appears repeatedly in the brand’s press material. The use of white gold and diamonds aligns the piece with traditional luxury cues, while the stark black lacquer version offers a more understated, almost avant‑garde aesthetic. The angular dial, the inclined layout, and the exposed rotor all contribute to a sense of kinetic sculpture rather than a purely decorative time‑piece. --- ## Movement & Performance — caliber, power reserve, accuracy At the heart of the Flying T lies an in‑house automatic caliber that marries classic tourbillon technology with MB&F’s own kinetic philosophy. | Specification | Detail | |---------------|--------| | **Movement type** | Automatic, in‑house | | **Complication** | Central flying 60‑second tourbillon (60 seconds per rotation) | | **Frequency** | 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph) | | **Power reserve** | 100 hours (≈ 4 days) | | **Water resistance** | 30 m (suitable for everyday splashes, not diving) | The tourbillon is “flying,” meaning it is mounted without a traditional upper bridge, allowing the cage to hover free of the dial plane. This not only reduces visual clutter but also enhances the perception of the tourbillon as a levitating column of kinetic energy. The rotor, shaped like a sun, is not merely decorative; it supplies the energy that sustains the 100‑hour reserve, a generous figure for a watch of this size and complication level. MB&F does not publish COSC certification or a specific accuracy range for the Flying T, so any statements about chronometric precision must be qualified. Nonetheless, the movement’s relatively low beat rate (2.5 Hz) is intended to promote smoother operation of the tourbillon and reduce wear on the escapement, a design choice that typically yields respectable, if not officially certified, accuracy. The caliber’s architecture is deliberately exposed: the domed sapphire crystal showcases the rotating rotor, the tourbillon, and the inclined dial plate, turning the mechanical operation into a visual performance. While this openness is aesthetically stunning, it also means the movement is more vulnerable to dust and shock—an inherent trade‑off for a watch that prioritises kinetic spectacle over ruggedness. --- ## On the Wrist — wearability, lug‑to‑lug, comfort notes ### Fit and ergonomics The Flying T’s 38.5 mm case sits comfortably on most wrist sizes, though its 20 mm thickness makes it a noticeable presence on the wrist. The domed crystal adds a subtle curvature that can help the watch sit flush against the skin, but the overall profile remains relatively “thick” compared with classic dress watches. Because the brand does not provide a lug‑to‑lug measurement, we cannot quote an exact figure. However, the case’s geometry—particularly the inclined dial and the central tourbillon—creates a visual balance that mitigates the impression of bulk. Wearers report that the watch feels secure thanks to its weight (white gold and diamonds add substantial mass) and the solid construction of the case. ### Strap and bracelet options Official documentation lists the watch in a “white gold” case with diamonds but does not specify a particular strap material. MB&F typically offers bespoke leather or metal bracelets for its machines, but without a confirmed source we cannot assert the exact strap style for the Flying T. Buyers should expect a high‑quality strap or bracelet that complements the luxurious case, likely sourced from the brand’s own accessory line. ### Comfort considerations The 30 m water resistance rating indicates that the watch is designed for everyday wear rather than aquatic activities. The domed crystal and the absence of a protective bezel mean the watch is best suited to environments where it will not be subjected to heavy impact. The generous power reserve ensures that the watch can stay running through a weekend without needing a reset, a practical benefit for a piece that is otherwise more of a statement than a daily driver. --- ## When to Wear — occasion, setting and dress‑code fit The Legacy Machine Flying T straddles the line between haute‑horlogerie art object and functional time‑keeper. Its price point, materials, and visual impact place it squarely in the realm of **high‑end formal occasions**: * **Black‑lacquer version:** The understated dial makes this variant adaptable to black‑tie events, gala dinners, or sophisticated cocktail parties. Its lack of extensive diamond setting keeps it from feeling overly ostentatious, allowing it to pair well with a sleek tuxedo or an elegant evening gown. * **Pavé‑diamond version:** The fully encrusted surface elevates the watch to a true jewelry piece, ideal for red‑carpet appearances, high‑society charity balls, or exclusive private events where sparkle is welcomed. * **Baguette‑diamond version:** With its geometric baguette diamonds and a price tag of US $315 000, this model is best reserved for moments where the wearer wishes to make an unmistakable statement—think award ceremonies, royal engagements, or private collections displays. Because the watch’s design is bold and its size is noticeable, it may feel out of place in more restrained business environments or casual weekend outings. However, for those who enjoy turning heads in a boardroom or at a high‑profile brunch, the Flying T can serve as a conversation starter that showcases both personal taste and an appreciation for mechanical art. --- ## Value & Verdict — price‑positioning + final take ### Pricing landscape * **Base black‑lacquer model:** US $115 000 * **Pavé‑diamond model:** US $145 000 * **Baguette‑diamond model:** US $315 000 These figures place the Flying T among the most expensive women’s watches on the market, competing with limited‑edition pieces from maisons such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. The price reflects not only the precious metals and diamonds but also the in‑house movement, the bespoke tourbillon architecture, and the brand’s reputation for kinetic sculpture. ### Strengths * **Technical ambition:** A 100‑hour power reserve and a flying tourbillon in a women’s watch are rare feats, underscoring MB&F’s engineering prowess. * **Design originality:** The 50° inclined dial and the sun‑shaped rotor give the watch a kinetic presence that feels fresh compared with traditional ladies’ watches. * **Emotional narrative:** Positioning the piece as a tribute to women’s roles in the founder’s life adds a personal dimension that resonates with collectors seeking meaning beyond pure horology. ### Weaknesses * **Wearability trade‑offs:** The 20 mm thickness and the exposed movement make the watch less practical for everyday wear, especially for those with smaller wrists or a preference for low‑profile pieces. * **Aesthetic similarity:** Some critics note that the Flying T “is perhaps too similar to the existing Legacy Machines to claim such success,” suggesting the design language may feel like an iteration rather than a breakthrough. * **Stone‑heavy criticism:** The extensive diamond setting, while visually stunning, invites the question “is it necessary to put stones on a women’s watch?”—a debate that may divide purists and those who favour minimalist elegance. ### Verdict The MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T is a **statement watch**—a kinetic sculpture that boldly declares that women’s haute‑horlogerie can be both technically sophisticated and visually daring. For collectors who value rarity, mechanical artistry, and a narrative that ties the piece to personal tribute, the Flying T delivers an experience that few other watches can match. However, the watch’s **size, thickness, and price** mean it is best approached as a special‑occasion piece rather than an everyday staple. Its value proposition aligns with those who are comfortable investing six‑figures in a watch that doubles as a work of art. If you are looking for a more understated, ultra‑practical women’s watch, the Flying T may feel excessive. But for those who want a horological machine that soars above conventional design, it earns its place in the upper tier of modern women’s complications. In short, the Legacy Machine Flying T is **a triumph of kinetic design** that pushes MB&F’s philosophy into the realm of feminine luxury. It is not without its compromises, but within the context of its ambition and execution, it stands as a compelling—and undeniably beautiful—addition to any serious collection.