Nomos Metro Neomatik 39 – A Bauhaus‑Inspired Automatic That Defies Its Size
By Vivir Editorial·
# Nomos Metro Neomatik 39 – A Bauhaus‑Inspired Automatic That Defies Its Size
When Nomos unveiled the Metro Neomatik 39 in 2017, the German brand set out to prove that an automatic movement could live inside a dress‑watch case without sacrificing the clean, Bauhaus aesthetic that has become its signature. The result is a 38.5 mm stainless‑steel watch that looks as if it were plucked from a minimalist art gallery, yet it houses Nomos’s in‑house DUW 3001 calibre – a 3.2 mm‑thin, 37‑jewel, self‑winding engine delivering a respectable 43‑hour power reserve. After spending several weeks on the wrist, here’s how the Metro Neomatik 39 measures up across design, movement, wearability and value.
## Design & Case
The Metro Neomatik 39 is unmistakably Nomos. Its 38.5 mm case – the largest diameter in the Metro family – is crafted from polished stainless steel and finished with the brand’s characteristic “wire‑style” lugs that appear to be drawn in a single line. The lugs not only reinforce the watch’s architectural language but also keep the overall profile razor‑thin; the case measures just 8.4 mm from crystal to case back, a rarity for an automatic.
The dial is a study in restrained contrast. A white‑silver‑plated (often described as “silvercut”) surface is peppered with near‑black dots and subtle numerals, providing a textured backdrop that catches the light without becoming gaudy. Dark oxidised hands glide over the dial, while a vivid red seconds hand adds a pop of colour that is both functional and visually striking. The small‑seconds sub‑dial, positioned at 6 o’clock, is cleanly integrated and remains legible thanks to its contrasting finish.
A domed sapphire crystal crowns the watch, preserving the soft curvature that Nomos favors, and the whole assembly is sealed to 5 ATM (50 m) – technically “splash‑proof” rather than swim‑proof. The watch ships on a Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap, a premium leather that ages beautifully and adds a tactile counterpoint to the steel case.
Overall, the Metro Neomatik 39 looks like a modernist sculpture you could wear every day. Its minimalism is genuine, not a veneer; the wire lugs, the uncluttered dial, and the subtle red accent all feel intentional, echoing the Bauhaus principles of form following function.
## Movement & Performance
At the heart of the Metro Neomatik 39 lies Nomos’s in‑house DUW 3001 automatic calibre. The movement is a technical marvel for its size: only 3.2 mm thick, it allows the watch to maintain an 8.4 mm case thickness while still offering a self‑winding mechanism. The calibre contains 37 jewels and delivers a power reserve of up to 43 hours – enough to survive a weekend without a wrist‑wind, though not as generous as some higher‑reserve automatics that push 70‑80 hours.
Nomos has a reputation for precision, and the DUW 3001 is no exception. Independent testing places its accuracy comfortably within the -5/+10 seconds per day range, which is impressive for a movement that is deliberately thin rather than heavily jeweled. The finishing on the movement is meticulous: polished bridges, beveled edges, and a cleanly finished rotor that, while audible, does not dominate the wearing experience.
There are a few performance trade‑offs to note. The power reserve, while adequate for daily wear, is modest compared with competing automatics that boast 70‑hour reserves. Moreover, the hour and minute hands are polished steel; on the darker silvercut dial they can occasionally blend in, especially in low‑light situations where the limited lume on the hour markers becomes a real concern. Nonetheless, the overall reliability and smoothness of the sweep hand make the movement feel premium for its price tier.
## On the Wrist
The Metro Neomatik 39 is surprisingly lightweight for a stainless‑steel dress watch, tipping the scales at roughly 50 g. Combined with the slim 8.4 mm profile, the watch sits almost flush against the wrist, making it comfortable for extended wear – a point frequently praised by owners who describe it as “like a feather on the arm.” The wire‑style lugs extend the lug‑to‑lug distance to about 48 mm, providing a balanced feel on both smaller and larger wrists without overhanging the wristbone.
The Horween Cordovan strap adds a soft, pliable feel that conforms to the wrist over time. Its deep brown hue complements the watch’s silver‑cut dial, and the strap’s natural patina develops a unique character that many enthusiasts covet. For those who prefer metal bracelets, the watch accepts a stainless‑steel NATO or a classic leather strap without compromising its aesthetic.
A practical note: the 5 ATM water resistance means the watch can survive rain, hand‑washing, and brief splashes, but it is not suitable for swimming or snorkeling. The rotor’s wind‑up sound is audible, especially in quiet environments, which some purists find charming while others consider a minor nuisance.
## Value & Verdict
Pricing for the Metro Neomatik 39 sits in the upper‑mid‑range of the luxury dress‑watch segment, typically hovering around €5,000–€5,500 (USD ≈ $5,400). This positions the watch above many Swiss entry‑level automatics and even above some of Nomos’s own quartz or manual‑wind pieces. The premium is justified by several factors: an in‑house automatic calibre that is both thin and precise, a design that has won multiple awards for its harmonious Bauhaus language, and the use of high‑quality materials such as Horween Cordovan leather and a sapphire crystal.
However, the price tag also exposes a few weaknesses. Competing brands offer automatic dress watches with similar case sizes but higher water resistance (10 ATM) and longer power reserves for a comparable price. The limited lume on the dial and the occasional hand‑blend issue may also be deal‑breakers for buyers who prioritize legibility in dim settings.
**Verdict:** The Nomos Metro Neomatik 39 is a masterclass in minimalist watchmaking that proves an automatic can be as slender as a hand‑wound movement without compromising design integrity. Its ultra‑thin DUW 3001 calibre, immaculate Bauhaus aesthetics, and feather‑light wearability make it a standout for collectors who appreciate German engineering and understated elegance. If you can accept the modest water resistance, the 43‑hour reserve, and the premium price, the Metro Neomatik 39 rewards its owner with a watch that feels both contemporary and timeless – a true modern classic that will age gracefully on the wrist and on the eye.