Oak & Oscar Burnham: A Field Watch Built for the City and the Trail
In the crowded world of microbrand watches, Oak & Oscar has carved out a distinct identity by blending Midwestern pragmatism with a collector’s eye for detail. The Burnham, named after Chicago’s Burnham Park and the city’s legendary urban planner Daniel Burnham, is the brand’s take on the classic field watch. It’s not trying to reinvent the wheel—instead, it refines the archetype with thoughtful design cues, a robust build, and a story that resonates with anyone who’s ever looked at a city skyline and felt a pull toward adventure.
Launched in 2017, the Burnham quickly became a cult favorite among enthusiasts who appreciate clean dials, excellent lume, and a case that wears smaller than its dimensions suggest. It’s a watch that feels equally at home on a leather strap at a coffee shop in Wicker Park or on a NATO during a weekend hike in the Rockies. For the young collector who values authenticity over hype, the Burnham is a compelling entry point into the world of independent watchmaking.
This review dives deep into the Burnham’s design, movement, real-world wearability, and investment potential. Whether you’re a first-time buyer or a seasoned collector looking for a daily beater with soul, here’s everything you need to know about Oak & Oscar’s flagship field watch.
Brand History: From Chicago with Love
Oak & Oscar was founded in 2015 by Chase Fancher, a former tech executive who wanted to create watches that told stories. The brand’s name is a nod to the oak tree (a symbol of strength) and the Oscar statuette (a nod to storytelling). Based in Chicago, Oak & Oscar draws heavily from the city’s architecture, parks, and history. The Burnham is named after Daniel Burnham, the architect and urban planner who designed Chicago’s lakefront parks and the famous Plan of Chicago. It’s a fitting tribute—a watch that’s both practical and aspirational, much like the city itself.
Movement: The Reliable Sellita SW200-1
At the heart of the Burnham beats the Sellita SW200-1, a Swiss automatic movement that’s become the go-to for many microbrands. It’s a clone of the ETA 2824-2, offering 26 jewels, a 28,800 vph beat rate, and a 38-hour power reserve. While not in-house, the SW200-1 is known for its robustness and ease of service. Oak & Oscar takes the extra step of regulating each movement in-house to -5/+10 seconds per day, which is better than many COSC-certified watches. The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback, with a custom rotor engraved with the brand’s logo.
For the price, the SW200-1 is a solid choice. It’s not the most decorated movement, but it’s reliable and easy to maintain. If you’re looking for a watch that will last decades with proper care, the Burnham delivers.
Design and Dial: Legibility First
The Burnham’s dial is a masterclass in clarity. Large Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 are filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9, which glows a cool blue in the dark. The hour and minute hands are sword-shaped and also lumed, with a syringe-style seconds hand that adds a touch of vintage flair. The dial is available in black, blue, or white, each with a subtle sunburst finish that catches the light without being distracting.
One of the Burnham’s standout features is the date window at 3 o’clock, which is framed with a polished border. Some purists prefer no date, but for a daily wearer, it’s a practical addition. The sapphire crystal is double-domed with anti-reflective coating, ensuring readability in all lighting conditions.
Case and Build: Compact and Rugged
The 40mm stainless steel case is brushed on top with polished bevels on the lugs, giving it a refined look that still feels toolish. The 48mm lug-to-lug and 12.5mm thickness make it one of the most wearable field watches on the market. The screw-down crown is signed with the Oak & Oscar logo, and the 100m water resistance means you can swim, shower, or get caught in a downpour without worry.
The caseback is solid steel with a sapphire display window, allowing you to see the movement. The engraving on the caseback includes the Burnham name and a subtle reference to Chicago’s park system. It’s a nice touch that adds to the story without being overbearing.
Strap and Clasp: Horween Leather Excellence
The Burnham comes on a Horween leather strap, sourced from the famous Chicago tannery. The leather is thick but supple, with a natural finish that develops a patina over time. The strap is 20mm at the lugs and tapers to 18mm at the pin buckle, which is signed with the brand’s logo. The buckle is brushed stainless steel and feels secure.
For those who prefer a more rugged look, the Burnham is also compatible with NATO straps, and Oak & Oscar offers a range of options on their website. The quick-release spring bars make strap changes a breeze.
Wrist Feel and Wearability
On the wrist, the Burnham is a dream. The short lugs and compact case make it suitable for wrists as small as 6 inches, while the 40mm diameter ensures it doesn’t look lost on larger wrists. The weight is balanced—about 80 grams on the leather strap—so it’s comfortable for all-day wear. The crown doesn’t dig into the hand, and the domed crystal adds a vintage charm without distorting the dial.
I wore the Burnham for a week straight, from office meetings to a weekend camping trip. It never felt out of place. The lume is bright enough to read in the middle of the night, and the date window is a welcome convenience. The only minor gripe is the lack of a quick-set date on the SW200-1 (you have to cycle through the hours), but that’s a small price to pay for reliability.
Accuracy and Real-World Performance
Over a week of mixed wear, the Burnham averaged +4 seconds per day. That’s excellent for a non-COSC movement. The regulation holds steady, and the movement is resistant to magnetism thanks to the lack of a soft iron inner case (though it’s not a major issue for most wearers). The power reserve of 38 hours is adequate for a daily wearer, but if you leave it off for a weekend, you’ll need to reset it on Monday.
Investment Value and Market Position
At $1,150 MSRP, the Burnham is priced competitively against other microbrand field watches like the Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic ($745) and the Seiko Alpinist ($725). The Burnham’s advantage is the premium Horween strap, the regulated movement, and the unique design story. On the pre-owned market, prices range from $800 to $1,000, making it a stable investment. It’s not a watch that will skyrocket in value, but it holds its own against depreciation.
For the trust-fund-baby buyer, the Burnham is a smart choice if you want something that’s not a Rolex or Omega but still carries cachet among enthusiasts. It’s a conversation starter without being flashy.
Pros and Cons
Pros: Excellent lume, comfortable 40mm case, high-quality Horween leather strap, reliable Sellita movement regulated in-house, unique Chicago heritage story.
Cons: No date on some variants, not a true in-house movement, limited water resistance compared to dive watches, resale market can be slow.
Final Verdict
The Oak & Oscar Burnham is a field watch that gets the fundamentals right. It’s comfortable, legible, and built to last, with a design that nods to Chicago’s architectural heritage without being gimmicky. For the young collector who values craftsmanship over hype, it’s a smart buy that will age gracefully. Whether you’re exploring the city or the backcountry, the Burnham is a reliable companion.
