Introduction
The Oak & Oscar Sandford is the brand's first dedicated dive watch, and it arrives with the quiet confidence of a brand that knows exactly what its collectors want. Founded by Chase Fancher in Chicago, Oak & Oscar has built a reputation for producing thoughtfully designed, American-assembled timepieces that prioritize legibility, wearability, and a strong sense of community. The Sandford is no exception.
At first glance, the Sandford channels the spirit of mid-century skin divers: a slim bezel, sword hands, and a clean, no-date dial. But Oak & Oscar has infused it with modern updates—a high-grade Swiss movement, a sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating, and a 300-meter water resistance rating that punches well above its dress-diver appearance. It's a watch that respects the past without being shackled by it.
I spent several weeks with the Sandford on wrist, wearing it in the office, on weekend hikes, and in the water. What emerged was a watch that feels both personal and purposeful—a tool that's equally at home under a cuff as it is strapped over a wetsuit. Here's the full breakdown.
Brand History & Context
Oak & Oscar was founded in 2015 by Chase Fancher, a former advertising executive who wanted to create watches that told stories. The brand’s name comes from Fancher’s family history—Oak and Oscar were his grandfather’s middle names. Every Oak & Oscar watch is assembled in the United States, with Swiss movements sourced from ETA and Sellita. The brand operates a direct-to-consumer model, which allows them to offer competitive pricing without sacrificing quality.
The Sandford is named after a street in Chicago’s Old Town neighborhood, continuing Oak & Oscar’s tradition of using Chicago landmarks for model names. It’s the brand’s first dive watch, following the Olmsted field watch and the Humboldt GMT.
Movement
Under the hood, the Sandford is powered by the Sellita SW200-1, a Swiss automatic movement that is essentially a clone of the ETA 2824-2. It beats at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of 38 hours. While not COSC-certified, Oak & Oscar regulates each movement in-house to -4/+6 seconds per day, which is more stringent than the official COSC standard of -4/+6.
The movement is visible through a sapphire display caseback, and Oak & Oscar has added a custom rotor with the brand’s signature “O&O” logo and perlage finishing on the bridges. It’s not haute horlogerie, but it’s clean and honest—a fitting match for the watch’s ethos.
Case & Build
The Sandford’s case is 40mm in diameter, 12.5mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. It’s made from 316L stainless steel with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel is a 120-click unidirectional design with a ceramic insert—a welcome upgrade over the aluminum inserts found on many vintage-inspired divers at this price point.
The crown screws down and is signed with the Oak & Oscar logo. Water resistance is rated at 300 meters, which is more than adequate for recreational diving and gives the watch a genuine tool-watch pedigree. The sapphire crystal is domed and treated with double anti-reflective coating, ensuring excellent legibility in all lighting conditions.
Dial & Lume
The dial is the Sandford’s strongest asset. It’s a matte black with applied hour markers and gilt accents that catch the light beautifully. The sword-style hands are a nod to vintage dive watches, and they’re filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9, which glows a cool blue in the dark. The lume is applied generously and lasts for hours after a full charge.
There is no date window, which keeps the dial perfectly symmetrical and enhances the vintage aesthetic. The minute track is printed on the outer edge, and the text is minimal: “Oak & Oscar” at 12 o’clock, “Automatic 300m / 1000ft” at 6 o’clock. It’s clean, uncluttered, and highly legible.
Strap & Wearability
The Sandford comes standard on a Horween Chromexcel leather strap in a dark brown color. The leather is thick but supple, and it breaks in quickly. The strap features quick-release spring bars, making it easy to swap for a NATO or rubber strap. The pin buckle is signed and matches the case’s brushed finish.
On the wrist, the Sandford wears smaller than its 40mm diameter suggests, thanks to the short 47mm lug-to-lug and the downward curve of the lugs. It’s comfortable for all-day wear, and the 12.5mm thickness is well-proportioned. The watch sits flat on the wrist and doesn’t catch on shirt cuffs.
Accuracy & Real-World Performance
Over two weeks of daily wear, the Sandford averaged +3.2 seconds per day, well within Oak & Oscar’s stated regulation. The movement is stable across positions, though I observed a slight increase to +6 seconds when left crown-up overnight. For a non-COSC movement, this is excellent real-world performance.
The bezel action is crisp and precise, with no backplay. The crown operates smoothly, and the screw-down mechanism feels secure. The sapphire crystal is highly scratch-resistant, and the AR coating is effective without being overly reflective.
Investment Value
At $1,295, the Sandford represents strong value in the microbrand dive watch segment. It competes directly with watches like the Monta Ocean King ($1,895) and the Baltic Aquascaphe ($1,100), offering a similar level of finishing and a more personal brand experience. On the secondary market, pre-owned examples typically sell for $900–$1,100, indicating stable resale value.
The Sandford is unlikely to appreciate significantly, but it’s not designed to be an investment. It’s a watch to be worn and enjoyed, and at this price point, it’s a low-risk entry into the world of independent watchmaking.
Final Verdict
The Oak & Oscar Sandford is a thoughtfully executed dive watch that balances vintage charm with modern reliability. It offers a compelling alternative to mass-market divers, with a level of personal touch and community that few brands can match. For the collector seeking an independent piece with genuine character, the Sandford is an easy recommendation.
