Paco Rabanne Black XS For Her Review: The Original Rebel Gourmand
An in-depth look at the cult classic that blended tart cranberry with dark cacao.
Launched in 2007, Paco Rabanne Black XS For Her arrived as the rebellious counterpart to its successful masculine predecessor from 2005. It entered a market saturated with polite fruity-florals and offered something distinctly different: a scent with a dark, gothic edge. This was not a fragrance for the timid. It was designed for the modern “rock''n''roll princess,” a concept that resonated deeply with a younger generation seeking to express individuality.
Within the Paco Rabanne portfolio, known for its audacious and often polarizing creations like 1 Million and Olympéa, Black XS For Her carved out its own unique territory. It wasn''t about overt wealth or divine power; it was about a moody, mysterious, and confident femininity. The brand positioned it as a modern love potion, blending contrasting elements to create an unforgettable signature. Its blend of tart fruit, bitter chocolate, and creamy woods was unlike anything else in the mainstream designer market at the time.
The inspiration was a modern gothic fairytale. The fragrance aimed to capture the duality of a woman who is both sweet and dangerous, innocent and knowing. The original bottle design, a deep plum glass orb entwined with a black rose, perfectly encapsulated this theme. The notes themselves tell this story: the sharp, almost sour cranberry opening gives way to a heart of dark cacao and black violet before settling into a seductive base of vanilla and wood. It was a narrative in a bottle, and consumers responded to its unique story.
Its cultural impact was significant. Black XS For Her quickly became a cult classic, the signature scent for a generation of women in the late 2000s and early 2010s. It was the smell of indie concerts, late-night conversations, and leather jackets. Its distinctiveness made it instantly recognizable, creating a loyal following. However, the fragrance landscape is ever-changing. In 2018, the scent was reformulated and rebottled, a move that remains a point of contention for original fans. This review focuses on the original 2007 Eau de Toilette that started it all.
The Nose Behind the Scent
Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann and Mark Buxton. Coppermann is a master perfumer known for many successful designer fragrances, while Buxton is a legendary figure in niche perfumery, famous for his avant-garde work with Comme des Garçons.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
A sharp, aggressive burst of tart, acidic cranberry and spicy pink pepper. It''s vibrant, unconventional, and designed to grab attention immediately.
The tartness softens, revealing a heart of dark, dusty cacao powder—bitter, not sweet. This is layered with powdery, gothic florals like black violet and hellebore rose.
A smooth and creamy finish. The base is dominated by a rich black vanilla, creamy Massoia wood, and a clean patchouli, creating a warm, seductive skin scent.
Performance Dashboard
Lasts a solid 7-9 hours on skin. Excellent longevity for an EDT concentration.
Projects strongly for the first 2-3 hours, creating a noticeable scent bubble before settling closer.
Leaves a moderate to strong trail that is easily detectable by others as you move.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Highly unique cranberry-cacao scent profile
- ✅ Excellent longevity and projection for an EDT
- ✅ Memorable and distinctive; stands out from the crowd
- ✅ Strong, rebellious identity and branding
- ❌ The sharp, tart opening can be off-putting for some
- ❌ The 2018 reformulation is widely considered inferior to the 2007 original
- ❌ Not versatile; best suited for evenings and cold weather
Price & Value
“Good value for a distinctive designer fragrance with strong performance. Worth the price if you love the scent profile.”
📜 Reformulation History
Significant reformulation in 2018. The original 2007 EDT (in a rounder, plum-colored bottle with a rose) was replaced by a 2018 EDP (in a taller, blockier bottle). The 2018 version is widely reported to be sweeter, less tart, and with reduced performance.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
Begins with a richer, slightly less tart cranberry and tamarind, softened by a warm pink peppercorn. Less bright than the EDT.
The heart intensifies with a prominent, almost gourmand dark cacao, blending seamlessly with the deep black violet and hellebore rose. This phase is fuller and more enveloping than the EDT.
Settles into a deep, creamy black vanilla and robust massoia wood, grounded by a noticeable patchouli. The drydown is long-lasting, warm, and significantly denser than the EDT.
Performance Dashboard
Lasts 8-10 hours reliably, often longer on clothes.
Strong projection for the first 3-4 hours, then a noticeable scent bubble.
Leaves a heavy, distinct scent trail.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Richer, deeper scent profile
- ✅ Significantly better longevity
- ✅ Stronger projection
- ✅ More intense gourmand notes
- ❌ Higher price point
- ❌ Can be too heavy for warm weather
- ❌ Less versatile for daily wear
Price & Value
“Higher price than EDT, but justified by superior depth and longevity.”
📜 Reformulation History
The Eau de Parfum launched in 2018 is often considered a reinterpretation or reformulation of the original Black XS for Her EDT. It offers a more concentrated and refined experience rather than minor batch variations.
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Women aged 20-35
- Individuals with an edgy or alternative style
- Those who want a unique, non-generic scent
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Fans of light, fresh, or classic white floral fragrances
- Conservative office environments
- Those sensitive to sharp or sweet scents
The Family
An intense version with added neroli and night-blooming cereus.
A limited edition with an emphasis on the hellebore rose note.
A sweeter, more tropical version with coconut and orchid.
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares a dark, sweet, fruity-gourmand structure with a patchouli base.
Offers a similar bold, sweet, and spicy profile with a prominent licorice note.
Features a dark, tart fruit (cherry) combined with almond and licorice, creating a similarly edgy vibe.
💡 Clone Alternatives
Widely cited by users as a very close and affordable clone of the original Black XS For Her EDT.
Shares a similar powdery vanilla and patchouli vibe in the drydown, though not a direct clone.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
Fans of dark, almond-vanilla scents will appreciate its mysterious depth.
Appeals to those who love a bold, sweet gourmand with a dark edge (coffee).
For those who want to explore an even darker, more complex, and earthier scent profile.
More from Paco Rabanne
🧪 Layering Ideas
- A simple vanilla fragrance to sweeten and enhance the creamy base.
- A dark chocolate or coffee-based scent to amplify the gourmand heart.
- A single-note patchouli oil to add earthiness and depth.
🏆 Final Verdict
Paco Rabanne Black XS For Her (in its original 2007 formulation) is a modern classic for a reason. It is a masterclass in contrast, balancing sour fruit with bitter gourmand notes and creamy woods. This is not a fragrance you buy to please others; you buy it as a statement of personal style. It is for the confident, the bold, and the individual who walks their own path.
In a world of repetitive fragrance releases, Black XS remains a benchmark for daring designer perfumery. It''s a scent with a soul and a story. If you are tired of smelling like everyone else and crave a fragrance that is both memorable and addictive, Black XS For Her is a necessary addition to your collection. Seek out the original formula if you can—it is an experience worth the hunt.