Paco Rabanne Black Xs Review: The Cult Classic That Still Breaks Rules
Before 1 Million, there was a rebel. An insider's look at the iconic gourmand that changed men's fragrance forever.
Listen closely, because what I’m about to tell you isn’t something you’ll read in a press release. Long before the gold bars of 1 Million dominated every duty-free shop and Invictus trophies lined bathroom shelves, Paco Rabanne dropped a grenade into the men''s fragrance world. The year was 2005. The scent was Black Xs. And trust me, nothing was ever the same. At the time, men’s perfumery was just shaking off the salty, aquatic hangover of the 90s. We were in a transitional phase, and Black Xs arrived not as a polite guest, but as the leather-clad rockstar kicking down the door to the afterparty. It was audacious, it was sweet, and it was unapologetically loud.
From my sources inside the Puig group, which owns Paco Rabanne, the brief was simple yet revolutionary: create a scent for the modern rebel. This wasn''t about a boardroom executive or a weekend sailor. This was for the guy in the front row of a concert, the artist in a dimly lit studio, the man with a tough exterior and a surprisingly tender, sweet core. Black Xs was designed to be a paradox. It positioned itself as the antithesis of the clean, safe fragrances that were popular, carving out a new niche that would later explode into the gourmand-heavy market we see today. It was the original bad boy with a heart of gold, bottled.
The inspiration was pure rock ''n'' roll fantasy. Think black leather jackets, smudged eyeliner, and the raw energy of a live show. The fragrance aimed to capture that duality—the sharp, almost aggressive opening notes giving way to an addictive, edible sweetness at its heart. It was a gamble. A mainstream designer brand releasing a men''s fragrance with a prominent praline note? Unheard of. Yet, it was this very audacity that cemented its legendary status. It became the signature scent for a generation of men who were tired of smelling like everyone else and wanted something with personality and presence.
Its cultural impact cannot be overstated. Black Xs walked so that scents like 1 Million could run. It normalized sweetness in masculine perfumery and proved that there was a massive audience for bold, statement-making fragrances. Within the community, it’s a ''love it or hate it'' icon. You’ll never hear someone say Black Xs is just ''nice''. It evokes passion. To this day, when I mention it at industry events, people''s eyes light up with nostalgic recognition. It’s the scent of first dates, late nights, and unforgettable memories. And as I’ll explain, despite a significant reformulation, that rebellious spirit is still very much alive.
The Nose Behind the Scent
The legendary Olivier Cresp is the nose behind Black Xs. A true master perfumer, Cresp is also responsible for iconic creations like Mugler''s Angel, Dolce & Gabbana''s Light Blue, and Dior''s Midnight Poison, showcasing his incredible versatility and pioneering role in the gourmand movement.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
An electric, almost synthetic burst of sharp lemon and kalamanzi. It''s attention-grabbing and intentionally jarring, quickly hinting at the sweetness to come beneath its green, herbal edge from sage.
The true identity reveals itself. The citrus fades to unveil a rich, decadent praline heart, often described as a ''chocolate strawberry'' accord. This is warmed by spicy cinnamon and cardamom, creating a seductive, magnetic, and edible core.
The sweetness mellows into a sophisticated, dark base. The praline note lingers but is now supported by rich rosewood, earthy patchouli, and a warm black amber accord. It becomes a sensual, woody skin scent that lasts for hours.
Performance Dashboard
Excellent. Easily lasts 7-9 hours on skin, and even longer on clothes. A true all-nighter.
Projects strongly for the first 2-3 hours, creating a noticeable scent bubble before settling closer to the skin.
Leaves a moderate to strong trail that is highly distinctive. People will notice and remember this scent as you pass by.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Iconic and unique praline/strawberry scent profile
- ✅ Excellent longevity and strong projection
- ✅ Perfect for nightlife and making a statement
- ✅ A modern classic that stands out from current trends
- ✅ Great value for its strong performance
- ❌ Sweetness can be cloying if over-applied or worn in heat
- ❌ The 2018 reformulation is considered weaker than the vintage original
- ❌ Definitely a polarizing scent; not a safe blind buy
Price & Value
“Absolutely worth the price. For a designer fragrance, it offers near-niche uniqueness and fantastic performance, making it a great value.”
📜 Reformulation History
Major reformulation in 2018. The original 2005-2017 version (in the ''zippo'' style bottle with a gothic font) is considered superior by enthusiasts, with a deeper, richer praline note and more potent performance. The current version (in a blockier bottle) is brighter, more citrus-heavy, and slightly less powerful, but still retains the core DNA.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The initial burst is a refined, slightly subdued citrus, quickly giving way to a rich, warm, and inviting spicy-gourmand heart that demands attention.
The heart of praline, cinnamon, and balsamic notes truly blossoms, becoming more enveloping and lasting, with a subtle dark fruitiness that sets it apart. This phase is where the scent’s luxurious depth truly shines.
The drydown settles into a profoundly potent and warm woody-ambery embrace. Expect pronounced patchouli, deep black amber, and the intense character of ebony wood, lingering for an impressive duration.
Performance Dashboard
Expect this EDP to cling to your skin for 10-12 hours, often pushing beyond, making it a true endurance champion.
It projects strongly for the first 3-4 hours, creating a captivating aura, then maintains a noticeable, moderate presence for many more.
This leaves a heavy, memorable trail that hints at your presence long after you''ve left the room. It''s a statement, not a whisper.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Exceptional longevity and sillage that lasts and lasts.
- ✅ A richer, deeper, and more intense scent profile than the EDT, truly amplified.
- ✅ Exudes a more luxurious and sophisticated feel.
- ✅ Absolutely perfect for colder weather and evening events, making a grand statement.
- ❌ The higher price point might be a consideration for some.
- ❌ Its intensity can be too heavy for warmer climates or casual daytime wear, limiting versatility.
Price & Value
“While a higher investment than its EDT counterpart, the intensified aroma and superior performance make the premium price entirely justified for discerning enthusiasts.”
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Men aged 20-40
- Confident and outgoing personalities
- Those with a rebellious or alternative style
- Fans of sweet, gourmand fragrances
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Conservative office environments
- Formal daytime events
- Those who prefer subtle, clean, or classic aquatic scents
The Family
An intensified version with added pineapple and cypriol oil for a darker, earthier feel.
A limited edition that introduced a wormwood note for a bitter, edgier twist on the original.
Launched alongside the reformulated EDT, the EDP is a richer, smoother, and more leather-focused interpretation.
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares a similar sweet, fruity, and ambery DNA, but with an apple note instead of lemon/praline.
Captures the same modern, sweet, nightlife vibe with notes of absinthe, vanilla, and lavender.
Offers a different kind of sweetness with a focus on tonka bean and amber, but appeals to the same audience looking for a powerful, warm, evening scent.
💡 Clone Alternatives
A well-known and very affordable alternative that captures the core praline and citrus accord.
Often compared for its similar sweet, spicy, and balsamic character, offering a similar vibe at a lower price point.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
Fans of Black XS''s bold sweetness will love Ultra Male''s potent pear, vanilla, and cinnamon combination.
Shares the same DNA of being a warm, spicy, and sweet powerhouse for cold weather and evenings.
Another modern, sweet-spicy nightlife champion with a prominent cinnamon note and seductive character.
More from Paco Rabanne
🧪 Layering Ideas
- A single spray of a simple woody scent like Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 (Iso E Super) to amplify the base notes.
- A light vanilla fragrance to enhance the gourmand praline heart and add even more warmth.
- A dark rum or leather-based scent to add a rugged, mature edge to the sweetness.
🏆 Final Verdict
In a world of endless blue fragrances and safe citrus scents, Black Xs remains an icon of rebellion. It’s a piece of modern fragrance history that dared to be different and, in doing so, changed the game. Buying Black Xs isn''t just buying a cologne; it''s buying a statement. It’s for the nights you want to remember, for the moments you want to feel bold and unapologetically yourself.
It’s more than just a sweet scent—it’s a carefully constructed balance of sharp, sweet, spicy, and dark elements. Its performance is still well above average, and its price point offers excellent value for such a distinctive and impactful fragrance. If you’re looking to break away from the mundane and add a legendary nightlife scent to your rotation, you simply have to experience Black Xs. Test it on your skin, let it evolve, and prepare for the compliments. You''re not just wearing a fragrance; you''re wearing an attitude.