Rolex Submariner No Date 124060 Review: The Purest Dive Watch
The Rolex Submariner needs no introduction. Since 1953, it has defined the dive watch category, worn by everyone from James Bond to deep-sea explorers. The reference 124060, introduced in 2020, represents the latest evolution of the no-date Submariner – a purist’s choice that strips away the cyclops and date window in favor of perfect symmetry and a cleaner dial. For the trust-fund-baby collector, this is the entry-level grail that bridges heritage and modern horology.
In a market where hype cycles dictate prices, the 124060 has proven remarkably resilient. Retail is nearly impossible to find, and secondary prices hover 20-40% above MSRP. But unlike the GMT-Master II ‘Pepsi’ or the Daytona, the no-date Sub doesn’t rely on limited-edition scarcity – it’s a core catalog piece that Rolex simply cannot produce fast enough. This review breaks down the specs, wrist feel, and investment potential of the 124060, so you can decide whether to hunt for one at retail or pay the premium.
We’ll examine the movement, case dimensions, and real-world accuracy, then dive into the resale data and auction history. Whether you’re adding to a collection or looking for a daily beater that holds value, the 124060 demands attention. Let’s see if it lives up to the hype.
Manufacture History
Rolex was founded in 1905 in London by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis, later moving to Geneva, Switzerland. The brand pioneered the waterproof Oyster case in 1926 and the first automatic Perpetual movement in 1931. The Submariner debuted in 1953 as the first dive watch water-resistant to 100 meters, later upgraded to 300 meters. The no-date variant has been a staple since the ref. 5513, beloved for its clean dial and tool-watch ethos. The 124060 continues that legacy with a larger 41mm case, ceramic bezel, and the in-house Caliber 3230.
Movement
The Caliber 3230 is an automatic movement with 70 hours of power reserve, beating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz). It features 31 jewels, a Chronergy escapement for improved efficiency, and a Parachrom hairspring that is highly resistant to magnetic fields and temperature changes. The movement is COSC-certified as a chronometer, and Rolex further tests it to -2/+2 seconds per day after casing. It is entirely in-house, with industrial-grade finishing – perlage on the bridges and Geneva stripes on the rotor. While not a display case back, the movement is robust and reliable.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 41mm
- Case Thickness: 12.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 48mm
- Case Material: 904L Oystersteel (stainless steel)
- Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire with Cyclops lens (no date, so no Cyclops)
- Water Resistance: 300 meters (1,000 feet)
- Lume: Chromalight – blue glow, long-lasting
- Bracelet/Strap: Oyster bracelet with three-piece solid links
- Clasp: Oysterlock folding clasp with Glidelock extension system
Wrist Feel
The 124060 wears surprisingly well for a 41mm case. The lugs are shorter and more tapered than the previous 114060, hugging the wrist better. At 12.5mm thick, it slides under a dress shirt cuff without issue. The Oyster bracelet is solid, with a comfortable Glidelock clasp that allows micro-adjustments on the fly. Weight is balanced – not too heavy, not too light – making it an ideal daily wearer. The ceramic bezel rotates with a crisp, precise action, and the crown screws down smoothly. Overall, it feels like a tool watch that’s been refined to luxury standards.
Accuracy
In real-world use, the Caliber 3230 consistently runs within -1 to +2 seconds per day, exceeding COSC standards. The Parachrom hairspring and high-efficiency escapement ensure stability even with daily wear and minor shocks. Expect to set it only once a week or less.
Occasions
The Submariner No Date is incredibly versatile. It works for sport (diving, swimming, hiking), daily wear (office, errands), dress (with a suit, though a bit thick for formal), and travel (robust and easy to read). It’s not a dedicated dress watch, but it can be dressed up with a leather strap.
Wrist Presence
4/5 – The Submariner is instantly recognizable but not ostentatious. The black dial and bezel fly under the radar, while the ceramic bezel and polished center links catch light subtly. It commands respect without screaming for attention.
Reference Variants
The 124060 is the only current no-date Submariner. There are no dial or bezel color variants. The previous generation was ref. 114060 (40mm case, Caliber 3130).
Family References
Predecessors: 114060 (2012-2020), 14060M (1990-2012), 5513 (1962-1990), 5512 (1959-1978). Current siblings with date: 126610LN (black), 126610LV (green bezel), 126613LB (two-tone blue), etc.
Other Notable Rolex Models
Rolex Daytona 116500LN, Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLRO, Rolex Datejust 126334, Rolex Explorer I 124270.
Similar Watches
- Omega Seamaster Diver 300M – Direct competitor with similar water resistance and a more modern movement at a lower price.
- Tudor Black Bay 58 – Smaller, vintage-inspired alternative from Rolex’s sister brand with excellent build quality.
- Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 5015 – The original dive watch with a richer history and a sapphire bezel, but less liquid on the secondary market.
Homages
- Steinhart Ocean One 39 – $450. Affordable homage with similar aesthetics and a reliable ETA movement.
- San Martin SN017-G – $250. Chinese homage with ceramic bezel and NH35 movement, great value for the look.
Investment Value
MSRP: $9,100
Current Retail: $9,100 (unobtainable at retail)
Pre-Owned Range: $10,500 – $14,000 depending on condition, box, and papers.
Trend: Appreciating – secondary prices have risen steadily since launch, with no sign of cooling.
Hold Recommendation: A solid hold. The no-date Sub is a timeless icon with strong secondary demand. Buy at retail if possible; if paying a premium, expect to recoup most of it over 3-5 years. Not a quick flip, but a long-term keeper.
Auction History: No major auction history for this modern reference. Vintage no-date Subs (e.g., ref. 5513) have sold for $20,000-$50,000 at Phillips and Christie’s.
Service Interval
Rolex recommends service every 10 years. Approximate cost at an authorized service center is $800. Independent watchmakers can also service the 3230 movement, often at lower cost. The movement is robust and parts are readily available.
Price Range & Verdict
Range: $9,100 – $14,000
Verdict: For the trust-fund-baby buyer, this is a no-brainer entry-level grail. Buy at retail if you can, otherwise pay a slight premium for immediate gratification. It will hold value better than most assets in your portfolio.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Iconic design with perfect symmetry
- Robust in-house movement with 70h power reserve
- Excellent resale value and liquidity
- Versatile – works with suits, shorts, or wetsuits
Cons
- High premium over retail on secondary market
- No date window (some prefer the convenience)
- Common – you’ll see others wearing the same watch
- Polished center links scratch easily
Final Verdict
The Rolex Submariner No Date 124060 is the ultimate one-watch collection. It combines heritage, modern engineering, and investment-grade stability. If you can secure one at retail, do it. If not, the premium is justified by its enduring desirability. This is a watch you buy, wear, and never regret.
