# Rolex Submariner No‑Date (Reference 124060) – A Modern Classic Re‑examined The Submariner has been the benchmark dive watch for more than six decades, and in 2020 Rolex gave the line its most significant update since the 1960s: a 41 mm, no‑date version that marries vintage proportions with contemporary technology. The result is the Submariner No‑Date (ref. 124060), a watch that looks instantly familiar yet feels unmistakably modern. Below we break down the new model’s design, movement, wearability, and value to see whether the hype lives up to the reality. --- ## Design & Case **Dimensions & Materials** – The case measures 41 mm in diameter, a modest growth from the iconic 40 mm of earlier Submariners but still slimmer than many of today’s 42‑44 mm sport watches. Constructed entirely from Rolex’s proprietary Oystersteel (a 904L stainless steel alloy), the case is both corrosion‑resistant and exceptionally polished. The watch sits on a 12 mm thick Oyster bracelet, also in Oystersteel, with the classic three‑piece link that blends robustness with a sleek profile. **Bezel & Dial** – The rotating bezel is a black Cerachrom ceramic insert, a material Rolex introduced in the early 2000s that is virtually scratch‑proof and retains its colour indefinitely. The bezel’s 60‑minute graduations are coated with Chromalight luminescence, delivering a long‑lasting blue glow that remains legible at depth. The dial is a deep black with large, chromed hour markers and hands that are also Chromalight‑treated. The absence of a date window restores the perfect symmetry that purists adore, echoing the original Submariner design from the 1950s. The “Super‑Luminova”‑style markers are slightly larger than on the date version, improving readability without compromising the clean aesthetic. **Overall Aesthetic** – As Knightsbridge Watches put it, “An enlarged No‑Date Submariner has to be the centre of the attention.” The watch feels like a refined evolution rather than a radical redesign, making it instantly recognizable on the wrist while offering a fresh, uncluttered look. --- ## Movement & Performance **Caliber 3230** – Under the sapphire crystal sits Rolex’s in‑house Caliber 3230, an automatic, self‑winding movement introduced with the 2020 Submariner update. The caliber features a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, a high‑frequency balance wheel (28,800 vph), and a bidirectional rotor that maximizes winding efficiency. **Power Reserve & Accuracy** – The 70‑hour power reserve is a generous step up from the 48‑hour reserve of the previous generation, meaning the watch can comfortably sit idle for three days without winding. Rolex claims an average daily deviation of –2/+2 seconds, a level of precision that rivals many chronometer‑certified movements. The combination of the Parachrom hairspring and the new escapement design contributes to this improved accuracy. **Water Resistance** – Certified to 300 m (1,000 ft), the Submariner No‑Date retains the dive‑watch credentials that made the line famous. The Oyster case, screw‑down crown, and Triplock winding system work together to keep water out, while the ceramic bezel’s insert resists corrosion from saltwater exposure. **Reliability** – As with all Rolex movements, the Caliber 3230 is built for service intervals of roughly ten years, a testament to its durability. The in‑house nature of the movement also ensures that spare parts and expertise are readily available through the brand’s global service network. --- ## On the Wrist **Wearability** – The 41 mm case sits comfortably on a wide range of wrist sizes. Lug‑to‑lug measurement is approximately 48 mm, giving the watch a balanced silhouette that doesn’t dominate smaller wrists yet still commands presence on larger ones. The bracelet’s solid links and the Oysterclasp with the Glidelock extension system allow fine micro‑adjustments, ensuring a snug fit even over a wetsuit. **Comfort** – Despite the solid steel construction, the watch feels lighter than its weight suggests, thanks to the polished finish and the ergonomic curvature of the case back. The crown is recessed and protects against accidental pulls, while the sapphire crystal’s anti‑reflective coating reduces glare both above and below water. **Everyday Practicality** – The lack of a date window is a double‑edged sword. For purists, the clean dial is a visual triumph; for everyday users, the omission can be inconvenient when a quick reference to the calendar is needed. Nonetheless, the watch’s legible Chromalight markers and robust construction make it equally at home in a boardroom, a weekend sail, or a deep‑sea dive. **Presence** – The Submariner No‑Date commands attention without shouting. Its black bezel and dial create a striking contrast that catches the eye, while the subtle Rolex crown logo on the dial and the polished case give it an understated elegance. It is a piece that transitions seamlessly from a wetsuit to a suit, reinforcing the brand’s claim that the Submariner “can transition from a wetsuit to a boardroom.” --- ## Value & Verdict **Price Positioning** – Rolex does not disclose retail pricing publicly, but the Submariner No‑Date sits at the higher end of the steel sports‑watch market. The watch’s price is typically a few thousand dollars above the date version, reflecting the new movement, the 70‑hour reserve, and the premium of the ceramic bezel. Secondary‑market premiums remain strong, especially given the limited availability and long wait‑lists at authorized dealers. **Strengths** * **Symmetrical Dial** – The pure, date‑free layout is praised by collectors for staying true to the Submariner’s origins. * **Improved Movement** – Caliber 3230’s extended power reserve and Rolex‑grade accuracy give the watch a modern edge. * **Material Excellence** – Oystersteel, Cerachrom bezel, and Chromalight luminescence combine durability with timeless aesthetics. * **Versatility** – A watch that looks equally at home underwater, on a yacht, or in a meeting room. **Weaknesses** * **Availability** – High demand and limited production mean most buyers face long wait‑lists, a common pain point for Rolex enthusiasts. * **No Date Complication** – While aesthetically pleasing, the lack of a date can be a practical drawback for daily wear. * **Price Premium** – The retail and secondary‑market price is steep for a steel sport watch, potentially limiting accessibility for first‑time buyers. **Final Take** – The Rolex Submariner No‑Date (ref. 124060) is a masterclass in subtle evolution. It respects the heritage of the original 1953 Submariner while integrating contemporary technology that enhances performance and wearability. For collectors who value a clean dial and are willing to wait (and pay) for a piece of horological history, the watch delivers on both form and function. For those who prioritize a date window or a lower entry price, the standard Submariner Date (ref. 126610) may still be the more practical choice. In the crowded arena of luxury dive watches, the Submariner No‑Date stands out not because it reinvented the wheel, but because it refined it to near perfection. Its blend of timeless design, robust in‑house movement, and undeniable brand cachet ensures it will remain a benchmark for the next decade—provided you can get your hands on one.