TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition Review – A Retro‑Racing Icon Re‑imagined
By Vivir Editorial··Updated
# TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition Review – A Retro‑Racing Icon Re‑imagined
The TAG Heuer Monaco has been a cultural touchstone since Steve McQueen’s wrist in *Le Mans* (1971). In 2022 the brand paid homage to that heritage with the Monaco Gulf Special Edition – a square‑case chronograph dressed in the unmistakable blue‑and‑orange Gulf racing livery. Built on the in‑house Calibre Heuer 02, the watch aims to blend the original’s daring design with modern reliability. Below we break down the piece’s anatomy, performance, wearability, and whether it justifies its CHF 6,900 price tag.
## Design & Case
At first glance the Monaco Gulf is a study in contrast. The 39 mm stainless‑steel case retains the iconic square silhouette that set the Monaco apart in 1969, but the dial swaps the classic teal for a deep, matte‑blue canvas. Over this background runs the signature Gulf racing stripes – a bold orange band flanked by a thin white line, echoing the livery of the 1970s Gulf Oil‑sponsored Porsche 917. The colors are reproduced faithfully; the blue is “rich, dark” and the orange is vivid enough to catch the eye without overwhelming the dial’s sun‑ray texture.
The case thickness sits at 12 mm, giving the watch a solid, presence‑filled profile while still slipping under most cuff lengths. The bezel is polished stainless steel with a subtle brushed finish on the inner ring, and the sapphire crystal is domed, offering a pleasant curve that reduces glare. The crown is positioned at the traditional 3 o’clock – a departure from the quirky 9 o’clock placement on earlier Monaco variants, a change that some purists lament as a loss of character.
The watch is water‑resistant to 100 m (10 ATM), a respectable figure for a chronograph of this era and a practical benefit for everyday wear. The stainless‑steel bracelet is brushed and features a fold‑over clasp with a safety pin, echoing the vintage aesthetic while providing modern security.
## Movement & Performance
Under the dial lies TAG Heuer’s Calibre Heuer 02, an in‑house automatic chronograph with a column‑wheel and vertical‑clutch system. This movement replaced the outsourced ETA units that powered previous Monaco models, marking a full return to in‑house engineering. The Calibre Heuer 02 offers an 80‑hour power reserve, meaning the watch can sit idle for more than three days before winding down – a notable improvement over many boutique chronographs that hover around 40–50 hours.
Chronograph operation feels crisp: the push‑buttons at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock engage with a clean, tactile click, and the vertical clutch ensures the start‑stop function is smooth, without the “jump” sometimes felt in older mechanical chronographs. Accuracy, as reported by TAG Heuer, sits within –5/+10 seconds per day, typical for a high‑grade automatic. The watch also sports a date window at 6 o’clock, a small but useful addition that does not detract from the dial’s symmetry.
## On the Wrist
The Monaco Gulf’s square case is a love‑or‑leave proposition. Its 39 mm width translates to a lug‑to‑lug spread of roughly 45 mm, which fits comfortably on most wrist sizes, though those with larger wrists may find it a tad snug. The watch’s weight – about 115 g including the bracelet – feels solid but not oppressive, delivering a satisfying heft that underscores its mechanical nature.
The blue‑and‑orange dial is undeniably eye‑catching, but it can be polarising. In bright sunlight the orange Gulf stripe can dominate, while in low light the deep blue may appear almost black, making the sub‑dials harder to read. The luminous appliques on the hour markers and chronograph hands mitigate this, though they are not as bright as the newer Super‑LumiNova treatments found on some competitors.
Comfort-wise, the bracelet’s brushed links sit flat against the skin, and the fold‑over clasp with safety pin eliminates any wobble. The crown’s conventional 3 o’clock placement is ergonomically sensible, but long‑time Monaco fans may miss the playful 9 o’clock crown that originally gave the model a quirky identity. This is the most noticeable compromise in an otherwise faithful tribute.
## Value & Verdict
TAG Heuer priced the Monaco Gulf Special Edition at CHF 6,900 (approximately US $7,400) at launch in May 2022. In the current market, the watch typically trades close to that figure on the secondary market, reflecting its status as a special, but not limited, edition. Compared with the standard Monaco Chronograph (≈ US $6,450) the Gulf version commands a premium of roughly 15 % for the unique dial and the in‑house Calibre Heuer 02.
From a value perspective, the watch delivers a solid package: a historically significant case, a reliable in‑house movement with an ample power reserve, and a striking Gulf‑inspired dial that sets it apart from the sea of monochrome chronographs. The primary drawbacks are aesthetic – the crown relocation and the dial’s potential legibility issues in low light – and the fact that the Gulf livery, while authentic, may not suit daily office attire.
**Verdict:** The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition is a well‑executed homage that successfully marries heritage design with contemporary mechanics. If you cherish the Monaco’s legacy and appreciate a dash of motorsport flair, the extra CHF 6,900 is justified. For purists who value the original 9 o’clock crown or who prefer a more subdued dial, the standard Monaco models remain compelling alternatives.
Overall, the Monaco Gulf stands as a vibrant, mechanically sound tribute that reinforces TAG Heuer’s ability to reinterpret its icons for the modern collector.