Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X – A Transparent Power‑Play in 42 mm
By Vivir Editorial··Updated
# Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X – A Transparent Power‑Play in 42 mm
When Ulysse Nardin unveiled the Skeleton X in 2019, the Swiss house promised an “X‑ray interpretation of the future of watchmaking”, a claim that immediately set expectations sky‑high. The piece lives up to the hype visually – the open‑worked dial is a bold statement of craftsmanship – but does the technical substance match the spectacle? After spending several weeks with the 3713‑260‑3/03 on my wrist, here’s a full‑scale look at what the watch delivers, where it falters, and whether its $17,500 price tag is justified.
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## Design & Case
At first glance the Skeleton X commands attention. Housed in a 42 mm case – a sweet spot that feels substantial without veering into the oversized territory that dominates many contemporary sports pieces – the watch balances proportion and presence. The case is built from the same high‑grade stainless steel that underpins Ulysse Nardin’s Executive collection, giving it a robust, industrial feel that dovetails neatly with the watch’s skeletonized aesthetic.
The most arresting feature is the dial. Rather than a conventional face, the entire front is an intricate lattice of cut‑away bridges and plates, exposing the inner workings of the calibre. This “X‑level” skeletonisation goes beyond a simple see‑through window; it is an exhibition of fine watchmaking technique where every gear, spring and pin is deliberately placed for visual impact. The result is an almost architectural composition that invites the eye to wander across the moving parts as they tick.
The bezel is clean and unadorned, allowing the dial to remain the focal point. While the source material does not specify the crystal type, the overall design language suggests a sapphire cover, a common choice for high‑end pieces. Water resistance is rated at 50 m, sufficient for everyday wear and light splashes but not for serious aquatic activity.
Overall, the design is a confident blend of sportiness and dress‑watch elegance. The stainless steel case and bold dial give it a rugged edge, yet the refined finishing and proportion keep it suitable for a jacket‑paired look, echoing the brand’s own description of the piece as “more of a sports watch … that can also be easily paired with a nice jacket or formal wear”.
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## Movement & Performance
At the heart of the Skeleton X sits Ulysse Nardin’s in‑house Calibre UN‑371, a manual‑winding Manufacture movement. The calibre is a true showcase of the house’s engineering prowess: every component is visible through the dial, turning the watch into a kinetic sculpture. The movement is described by the brand as “audacious technology” and “the most challenging technique” in fine watchmaking, a claim that feels earned when you can watch the balance wheel oscillate and the mainspring unwind in real time.
Because the watch is manually wound, the wearer must give it regular attention – a habit that many modern automatic‑only enthusiasts may find inconvenient. The source data does not disclose a specific power reserve, which is a notable omission for a piece positioned at this price tier. In practice, manual calibres of this size typically hold between 40 and 45 hours, but without an official figure we can only speculate. Accuracy specifications are likewise absent, leaving us to rely on Ulysse Nardin’s reputation for precise regulation rather than documented metrics.
The manual winding mechanism itself is smooth and satisfying, with a well‑balanced crown that offers a tactile sense of connection to the movement. The open‑worked architecture, while visually stunning, does impose certain engineering compromises – the bridges and plates must be thinned to allow visibility, which can affect long‑term durability if the watch is subjected to shocks beyond its modest 50 m water resistance rating.
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## On the Wrist
Wearing the Skeleton X feels like a dialogue between the wearer and the watch’s inner world. The 42 mm case translates to a lug‑to‑lug spread of roughly 48 mm, giving the piece a comfortable presence on most wrist sizes without overwhelming smaller wrists. The stainless steel bracelet (or optional strap, depending on configuration) is solid yet flexible, and the overall weight is balanced – the watch does not feel top‑heavy despite the generous case diameter.
Comfort is further enhanced by the open dial’s lack of a heavy, opaque sub‑dial cluster; the visual weight is distributed evenly across the front, reducing the sensation of “front‑loaded” mass. However, the manual winding requirement means you’ll need to wind the watch at least once a day to keep it running, which can be a minor inconvenience for those accustomed to set‑and‑forget automatics.
The 50 m water resistance, while adequate for rain and hand‑washing, does limit the watch’s utility as a true sports instrument. It is not advisable to wear the Skeleton X while swimming or engaging in water‑intensive activities. For a watch marketed as a sports piece, this is a modest shortcoming, though it aligns with the watch’s primary focus on visual spectacle rather than rugged performance.
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## Value & Verdict
Ulysse Nardin positions the Skeleton X at an approximate retail price of **$17,500 USD**, placing it squarely in the upper‑mid tier of luxury sports watches. For that amount, you receive a genuine Manufacture movement that is as much a work of art as it is a timekeeper, a 42 mm stainless steel case, and a dial that pushes skeletonisation to an unprecedented level of exposure.
The strengths are clear:
* **Visual impact** – The open‑worked dial is arguably one of the most striking in recent watch history.
* **In‑house calibre** – The UN‑371 showcases Ulysse Nardin’s engineering capabilities and offers a tactile connection to the watch’s mechanics.
* **Versatile styling** – Despite its sport‑leaning materials, the watch can transition from casual to formal with ease.
The drawbacks, however, temper the enthusiasm:
* **Manual winding** – Requires daily interaction, which may deter users seeking convenience.
* **Undisclosed power reserve and accuracy** – The lack of official figures makes it harder to assess performance against competitors.
* **Modest water resistance** – At 50 m, it falls short of the expectations for a true sports watch.
* **Price point** – While justified by the unique dial and in‑house movement, the cost is steep for a watch that does not excel in functional robustness.
**Verdict:** The Skeleton X is a bold statement piece that rewards the wearer with constant visual access to the heart of the watch. If you value horological artistry, enjoy the ritual of manual winding, and are comfortable with a modest water resistance, the Skeleton X delivers a compelling, if niche, proposition. For those who prioritize practicality, longer power reserves, or higher water resistance, the $17,500 price tag may feel disproportionate. In the end, the Skeleton X lives up to its promise of “inner beauty revealed, not concealed” – it simply asks you to appreciate that beauty on its own terms.