Yves Saint Laurent Nu Eau De Toilette Review: A Bold, Modern Classic for the Discerning Nose
Yves Saint Laurent's Nu Eau de Toilette, launched in 2001, stands as a testament to the house's daring and avant-garde spirit. Created by the renowned perfumer Jacques Cavallier, Nu was designed to be a modern, sensual fragrance that broke away from traditional masculine or feminine categories, aiming instead for a universally appealing, sophisticated aroma. It arrived during a period when the fragrance market was exploring more abstract and less conventional scent profiles, positioning Nu as a distinctive choice for those seeking something beyond the mainstream.
Within the YSL lineup, Nu Eau de Toilette carved out a unique niche. While the brand is known for iconic fragrances like Opium and Kouros, Nu offered a contemporary, refined elegance. It was positioned as a scent for the confident individual, a statement piece rather than a background scent. Its marketing often emphasized duality and sensuality, appealing to a sophisticated clientele who appreciated luxury and individuality. The Eau de Toilette concentration, in particular, was designed to be more accessible and versatile than its Eau de Parfum counterpart, offering a lighter yet still impactful olfactory experience.
The inspiration behind Nu Eau de Toilette was rooted in the concept of the "second skin" – a fragrance that feels intimately connected to the wearer, enhancing their natural allure. Cavallier aimed to capture a sense of understated sensuality and modern chic. The scent profile, built around an unusual combination of spicy, woody, and floral notes, with a prominent orchid accord, was intended to be both comforting and intriguing. It was about a feeling of confidence and self-assuredness, a scent that whispers rather than shouts, yet leaves a memorable impression.
Nu Eau de Toilette quickly garnered a cult following among fragrance enthusiasts. Its unconventional blend of notes, particularly the dry, spicy orchid and the creamy sandalwood base, made it stand out. While not a commercial blockbuster on the scale of some other YSL releases, it earned critical acclaim for its sophistication and unique character. It became a go-to fragrance for many who appreciated its modern take on sensuality and its ability to be both alluring and refined, solidifying its status as a modern classic in the eyes of many perfume connoisseurs.
The Nose Behind the Scent
Jacques Cavallier. A celebrated perfumer with a career spanning decades, Cavallier is known for his ability to create elegant, modern, and often innovative fragrances. He has worked with numerous high-profile houses, developing iconic scents that have defined eras. His background includes training at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and early work under his father, a perfumer at Firmenich. Notable creations by Cavallier include Lancôme's Poême, Dior's Midnight Poison, and Bulgari's Aqva Pour Homme. His work on Nu showcases his talent for blending unexpected notes into a harmonious and captivating composition.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The initial spray is bright and slightly sharp, led by the zesty citrus of bergamot, which is quickly met by the invigorating prickle of pink pepper and the warm, aromatic spice of cardamom. This opening is clean, bracing, and subtly complex, hinting at the depth to come without being overtly sweet or fruity.
As the top notes recede, the heart of the fragrance emerges. The unique orchid note takes center stage, offering a dry, slightly powdery, and subtly spicy floral character. It's supported by the delicate sweetness of jasmine and rose, and the warm, aromatic kick of nutmeg. This phase is where Nu truly defines itself, presenting a sophisticated, non-traditional floral bouquet that is both intriguing and sensual.
The base notes provide a lasting foundation of creamy, smooth sandalwood. The smoky, resinous aroma of incense adds a sophisticated, slightly mysterious depth, while patchouli contributes an earthy, grounded quality. A hint of vanilla and musk rounds out the composition, leaving a warm, sensual, and lingering trail that feels like a luxurious second skin.
Performance Dashboard
Nu Eau de Toilette offers impressive longevity for an EDT. On average, it lasts between 7 to 9 hours on the skin, with clothing holding the scent even longer. It’s a fragrance that can confidently take you through most of the day or a full evening out.
The projection is moderate to strong, especially in the first 2-3 hours. It creates a noticeable scent bubble around the wearer, making it present without being overwhelming. It’s substantial enough to be detected in a room but doesn't typically fill large spaces aggressively.
The sillage, or the scent trail left behind, is moderate. It’s noticeable and leaves a pleasant, intriguing aroma as you move, but it’s not a scent that announces your arrival from across the room. It’s more of a subtle, sophisticated signature.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Nu Eau de Toilette is a significant compliment getter. Its unique blend of spicy orchid, incense, and woody notes is intriguing and often draws positive attention. Compliments tend to focus on its sophisticated, alluring, and distinctive aroma, often described as "different" and "sexy.",
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Unique and sophisticated scent profile, stands out from the crowd.
- ✅ Excellent longevity for an Eau de Toilette.
- ✅ Versatile enough for various occasions, especially evenings and cooler weather.
- ✅ Leaves a memorable and alluring trail.
- ✅ High compliment factor due to its distinctive aroma.
- ❌ Can be overpowering if oversprayed, especially in warmer conditions.
- ❌ The orchid and incense notes can be polarizing for some noses.
- ❌ Availability can be an issue as it's been discontinued in some markets.
- ❌ The price point is premium, reflecting its designer status.
Price & Value
“For those who appreciate its unique character and performance, Nu Eau de Toilette represents good value within the premium designer fragrance segment. The quality of ingredients, distinctive scent profile, and solid performance justify the investment for fans. However, if it's not to your taste, the price might feel steep.”
📜 Reformulation History
While YSL fragrances are generally well-regarded for consistency, some users have noted subtle differences in performance or scent intensity across different production batches over the years. However, there are no widely documented or significant reformulations that drastically alter the core DNA of Nu Eau de Toilette. The primary concern for collectors is often sourcing older batches that may have slightly richer performance, but the modern formulations are still considered very close to the original.
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Men and women aged 25-50 who appreciate sophisticated, modern, and slightly unconventional scents.
- Individuals with confident personalities, a penchant for understated luxury, and those who enjoy fragrances that are both sensual and refined.
- The wearer who wants to make a statement without being loud.
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Individuals who prefer very fresh, aquatic, or overtly sweet fragrances.
- Those sensitive to spices or incense might find it too intense.
- Not the best choice for very formal daytime events in warm weather or environments where a subtle, inoffensive scent is paramount (e.g., some offices).
The Family
A richer, more concentrated version with slightly different nuances, often perceived as deeper and more intense.
The focus of this review, offering a brighter and more accessible take on the original concept.
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares a similar dark, opulent, and slightly mysterious floral-woody profile, particularly the orchid note.
Offers a comparable warm, spicy, and slightly smoky oriental character with a focus on tobacco and incense.
While more classic and powdery, it shares an oriental sensuality with vanilla and incense that can appeal to Nu fans.
For those drawn to the smoky incense accord in Nu.
💡 Clone Alternatives
Often cited for its strong performance and woody-spicy character, though it leans more masculine and citrus-heavy.
While more overtly sweet and minty, it shares a bold, attention-grabbing profile that some users associate with Nu's impact.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
For its bold oriental spice.
For its unique and somewhat polarizing aromatic-woody character.
For a sophisticated, modern woody citrus, though much brighter.
For its modern, musky, and woody sensuality.
More from Yves Saint Laurent
🧪 Layering Ideas
- Vanilla Bean-based fragrance
- Light Musk fragrance
- Sandalwood-centric cologne
🏆 Final Verdict
Yves Saint Laurent Nu Eau de Toilette is a fragrance for those who dare to be different. It masterfully blends spicy, woody, and floral notes into a sophisticated and undeniably sensual composition. Its strength lies in its unique character – the dry, intriguing orchid paired with smoky incense and creamy sandalwood creates an olfactory experience that is both modern and timeless. If you're tired of generic scents and are seeking a fragrance that speaks of confidence, individuality, and understated luxury, Nu EDT is an excellent choice. Its impressive longevity and moderate projection make it a reliable companion for evenings out, date nights, or any occasion where you want to leave a memorable impression. While it might not be for everyone, for its fans, it is an indispensable part of their collection, a true modern classic that continues to captivate.