Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Summer 2018 Review: A Breeze in a Bottle
Capturing the ephemeral joy of a perfect summer day, this limited edition flanker is a masterclass in aquatic freshness.
Every year, as the days grow longer and the sun climbs higher, the fragrance world holds its breath for the seasonal offerings from the great houses. Among these, the Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Summer editions have become a cherished ritual, a fleeting whisper of a season that promises endless blue skies and salt-kissed skin. The 2018 iteration arrived not as a revolution, but as a perfect evolution—a love letter to the Mediterranean coast, bottled for those who chase the horizon.
Launched as a limited edition flanker to the iconic, pillar L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme, this fragrance exists in a unique space. It's not trying to replace the original's groundbreaking, yuzu-and-woods DNA. Instead, it offers a sun-drenched, more relaxed interpretation. In the brand's lineup, it sits as a collector's piece and a seasonal escape, a scent designed to be worn until the last bottle is gone, its memory lingering like the last warm day of autumn.
The inspiration is pure, unadulterated summer. Imagine the specific moment when you dive into a cool, azure sea after baking on hot white rocks. It's the contrast of solar warmth and aquatic chill, the scent of wet skin drying in a coastal breeze, and the faint, clean aroma of sun-bleached linen. Perfumer Aurélien Guichard was tasked with translating this sensory snapshot into a fragrance, and the result is an olfactory postcard from a perfect holiday.
Within the fragrance community, L'Eau d'Issey Summer 2018 has garnered a reputation as one of the more successful and well-loved entries in the annual series. It's often cited as a benchmark for a 'blue,' aquatic summer scent done with designer polish and a touch of artistic flair. It didn't just smell like generic 'ocean' or 'shower gel'; it had a distinctive, almost metallic-clean character that set it apart. For many, it represents a specific, joyful moment in time—a scent that, when rediscovered in a collection, instantly transports the wearer back to long, lazy days of 2018.
The Nose Behind the Scent
Aurélien Guichard, a master perfumer and the nose behind countless modern classics. As the son of renowned perfumer Jean Guichard (creator of Thierry Mugler's Angel), fragrance is in his blood. His portfolio is a testament to versatility, ranging from the sheer elegance of Narciso Rodriguez for Him to the bold, spicy leather of Gucci Guilty Absolute. His work on the L'Eau d'Issey Summer series showcases his ability to capture abstract, atmospheric concepts with clarity and wearability.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The first spray is an exhilarating, cold splash. The bergamot and yuzu burst forth with a juicy, tart brightness, but they are instantly enveloped by a powerful, ozonic marine accord. It's not a sweet, tropical coconut-water sea; this is the crisp, clean, almost metallic scent of deep, cold ocean water. A whisper of mint adds a chilling, tingling sensation, making the opening feel incredibly refreshing and alive.
As the initial citrus chill subsides, the fragrance settles into its true heart. The 'water notes' become more nuanced, less aggressive, and blend seamlessly with aromatic hints of sage and a clean, green geranium. This phase is remarkably stable and linear, evoking the feeling of sun-warmed skin after a swim. The saltiness becomes more apparent here, not like sweat, but like the fine, drying salt on your skin after a day at the beach.
Hours in, the aquatic storm calms to reveal a serene, clean shoreline. The dominant character becomes a blend of sheer, synthetic amberwood and clean, skin-like musk, resting on a faint, dry cedar plank. It's a minimalist, modern drydown—inoffensive, close to the skin, and incredibly clean. It smells like the ghost of the sea on a well-washed cotton t-shirt, a memory of the day's adventures.
Performance Dashboard
Lasts a respectable 6-7 hours on skin, which is excellent for a fresh, aquatic EDT. It becomes a skin scent after the 4-hour mark.
Projects moderately for the first 1-2 hours, creating a pleasant, fresh bubble around the wearer of about an arm's length. It's not a room-filler, which suits its casual, daytime intent.
Leaves a light, clean trail for the first hour or so. It's more of an intimate scent that announces itself when you move, rather than preceding you into a room.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Receives consistent, polite compliments for being 'clean,' 'fresh,' and 'nice.' It's not a head-turning, seductive scent, but one that people notice and appreciate for its inoffensive, uplifting quality, especially in the heat.
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Exceptionally refreshing and perfect for hot weather
- ✅ Unique, metallic-clean aquatic character stands out from generic 'blue' scents
- ✅ Very versatile and inoffensive for daily wear
- ✅ Beautiful, collectible bottle design
- ✅ Performs well for a light summer fragrance
- ❌ Can smell somewhat synthetic or 'laundry-detergent-like' to some noses
- ❌ Drydown is very subtle and may disappear on some skin types
- ❌ As a limited edition, it is now harder to find and may be priced at a premium
Price & Value
“At its original retail price, it represented excellent value for a high-quality, unique summer scent. Current prices on auction sites or from resellers require a 'collector's premium,' making it a worthwhile purchase primarily for fans of the line or those specifically seeking this scent.”
📜 Reformulation History
As a limited edition produced for a single season (2018), there are no known major reformulations. However, as with all mass-produced fragrances, minor batch-to-batch variations in ingredient sourcing could occur. The scent profile is generally considered consistent across all bottles from its release year.
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Men and women of all ages seeking a unisex, clean scent
- Minimalists who appreciate modern, abstract fragrances
- Anyone with an active, outdoor lifestyle
- Fans of aquatic, 'blue', and ozonic fragrances
- Collectors of the L'Eau d'Issey Summer series
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Those who dislike synthetic, 'laundry-fresh' or metallic notes
- People seeking deep warmth, spice, or sweetness
- Cold-weather fragrance enthusiasts
- Individuals who prefer classic, natural-smelling citrus colognes
The Family
The original pillar fragrance with iconic yuzu, woods, and tobacco notes.
A darker, woodier, and more ambery interpretation for evening.
A more direct, energetic, and citrus-focused sporty flanker.
A previous edition with a focus on ginger and woody notes.
A later edition featuring a vibrant, solar floralcy with neroli and orange blossom.
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Shares a distinctive salty, marine DNA, though Aqva is more mineralic and seaweed-like.
The classic aromatic aquatic, but Cool Water is more lavender-forward and less metallic-clean.
Similar ultra-clean, soapy, and fresh vibe, though Mugler is more neroli and petitgrain focused.
Another masterful aquatic with a spicy, gingery twist and a comparable sense of freshness.
💡 Clone Alternatives
Often cited as a very close alternative to the L'Eau d'Issey line's fresh, aquatic character at a fraction of the price.
A Middle Eastern fragrance that captures a clean, citrus-aquatic profile reminiscent of many designer summer scents.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
For lovers of supremely clean, sparkling citrus that feels like a crisp white shirt.
A deeper, more oceanic and mineralic take on the aquatic theme with great performance.
For those who appreciate the luxury citrus opening but want a more natural, Italian coast vibe.
The budget-friendly king of fresh, apple-and-aquatic scents for endless summer days.
More from Issey Miyake
🧪 Layering Ideas
- A simple, vanilla-based skin scent (like Molton Brown Milk Musk) to add a touch of creamy warmth to the drydown.
- A woody amber fragrance (like Maison Margiela 'By the Fireplace' used sparingly) to create a 'beach bonfire' contrast.
- A pure citrus cologne (like 4711 Original) to boost the opening's brightness and longevity.
🏆 Final Verdict
Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Summer 2018 is more than just a seasonal fragrance; it's a time capsule of a feeling. It masterfully bottles the exhilarating, clean chill of a plunge into the deep blue sea and the serene, salty warmth that follows. While its performance is modest as befits its airy character, its uniqueness within the crowded aquatic genre is undeniable.
You should buy this fragrance if you are a collector of the series, a devotee of ultra-clean, metallic-aquatic scents, or simply someone in search of the perfect olfactory companion for a sun-drenched season. It represents a specific moment in perfumery—a designer house applying artistry to a popular accord. Now that it's a discontinued gem, finding a bottle is like discovering a forgotten photograph from a perfect holiday: it may fade at the edges, but the joy it evokes is immediate and profound.