Issey Miyake Pleats Please in Bloom

Issey Miyake Pleats Please in Bloom Review: A Fruity Rose

The 2015 limited-edition flanker pairs raspberry and litchi with a soft rose heart

By Vivir ·
Issey Miyake Pleats Please in Bloom is a limited-edition flanker to the house's 2012 Pleats Please, released in early 2015 and composed by Aurélien Guichard. Where the original leaned on abstract florals and a clean musk finish, in Bloom turns up the fruit: raspberry and litchi open the composition, rose and peony carry the heart, and white musk, cedar and patchouli close it out. The result is a soft, sweet, faintly tropical floral that reads as friendly rather than formal. Only one format was ever produced: a 50 ml Eau de Toilette. There is no Eau de Parfum, no larger flacon and no travel-size companion. That single-format release says a great deal about how the fragrance was positioned. This was a seasonal, low-commitment addition to the Pleats Please family rather than a flagship launch, and it behaves accordingly. If you are looking for a loud, statement rose, this is not it. If you want something you can wear to the office in June without a second thought, in Bloom is worth understanding in detail — particularly because its performance sits on the modest side, and that shapes almost every recommendation you can make about it.
Longevity
2.0
Projection
2.0
Sillage
2.0
$40-$70
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Rose Fruity Floral Fresh Sweet Tropical Musky

Notes Pyramid

Top
RaspberryLitchi
Heart
RosePeony
Base
White MuskCedarPatchouli

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The first spray is the fruitiest moment in the fragrance's life. Raspberry arrives with a soft, jammy sweetness, and litchi adds a watery, almost lychee-jelly texture that gives the opening its tropical tilt. It is bright but never sharp — there is no citrus bite here, and no alcohol blast to speak of. Within a few minutes the fruit begins to lose its edge and the florals start moving forward.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

Roughly one to two hours in, the fragrance settles into its heart. Rose is the dominant accord on the Fragrantica profile, and it earns that position: this is a soft, rounded, slightly sweet rose rather than a green or spicy one. Peony sits underneath and adds a powdery, airy quality that keeps the composition from turning heavy. The fruity accord is still audible but has become a supporting note rather than the headline.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

From around the four-hour mark the fragrance is mostly base. White musk provides the bulk of it — clean, slightly creamy, and very close to the skin — while cedar adds a dry, faintly woody structure and patchouli contributes a whisper of earthiness that keeps the sweetness in check. The drydown is quiet and comfortable rather than dramatic, and on most skin it fades out somewhere between three and five hours.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 2.0/5

Poor to moderate — user reviews suggest roughly 3-5 hours, with at least one reviewer explicitly citing poor longevity. Treat this as approximate.

📢 Projection 2.0/5

Intimate to moderate. Expect it to sit within roughly an arm's length for the first hour or two, then pull closer to the skin.

💨 Sillage 2.0/5

Soft. It does not fill a room and is unlikely to be noticed from across a desk.

When to Wear

🌸SpringBest
☀️SummerBest
🍂FallOK
❄️WinterAvoid
📌 Everyday wear💼 Office📌 Casual daytime📌 Weekend errands

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ Approachable, well-balanced fruity-floral that is hard to dislike
  • ✅ Excellent office and daytime choice thanks to its soft, non-intrusive character
  • ✅ Rose and peony heart feels rounded rather than sharp or soapy
  • ✅ Reasonable price for a designer Eau de Toilette at 50 ml
  • ✅ Distinctive enough within the Pleats Please line to justify its existence as a flanker
  • ❌ Longevity is short — roughly three to five hours on most skin
  • ❌ Sillage and projection are soft, which limits its presence
  • ❌ Limited-edition status means availability can be inconsistent
  • ❌ Only ever released as a 50 ml EDT, so there is no larger or more concentrated option
  • ❌ Not a cold-weather fragrance, which narrows its usable window

Price & Value

$40-$70
For a 50 ml designer Eau de Toilette, this sits in the affordable end of the market. The catch is that you will likely use it faster than a heavier scent, because the wear time is short and reapplication is often necessary.

“Fair value at the lower end of the range, less compelling at the top end. If you find it discounted, it is an easy buy for spring and summer daytime wear. At full retail, the short longevity is harder to justify.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations have been reported by the fragrance community. Because Pleats Please in Bloom was a limited edition, the more practical concern is availability and freshness of stock rather than reformulation between batches.

Who It's For

Ideal For

  • Wearers who prefer soft, skin-close fragrances over loud ones
  • Anyone wanting an easy spring and summer daytime scent for the office
  • Fans of fruity florals who find most rose fragrances too heavy or too mature
  • Collectors of Issey Miyake's Pleats Please line and limited-edition flankers

Not Recommended For

  • Anyone who needs a fragrance to last a full working day without reapplying
  • Wearers who want strong projection or a room-filling signature
  • People who dislike sweet or fruity notes in their florals
  • Anyone looking for a cold-weather or evening fragrance

The Family

Explore More

Similar Fragrances

You May Also Enjoy

Layering Ideas

Final Verdict

Issey Miyake Pleats Please in Bloom is a genuinely pleasant fruity-floral that does exactly what a limited-edition spring flanker should do: it is easy, cheerful and completely unthreatening. Its weakness is staying power — three to five hours of soft, skin-close wear is not much for the money. Buy it for the office, the warm months and the pleasure of a well-made raspberry rose, not for performance.

More fragrances we love

Sponsored picks

Also worth your attention: watches

Sponsored picks
Issey Miyakefloral fruityroseraspberrylimited editionEau de Toilettespring summer