Introduction
In the rarefied world of independent watchmaking, few names command as much respect as Rexhep Rexhepi. The Kosovar-born master watchmaker founded Akrivia in 2012, and by 2018, he released a piece that would shake the foundations of the industry: the Chronomètre Contemporain, reference RR01. This is not just a watch; it is a statement—a proof that traditional craftsmanship can coexist with modern aesthetics and rigorous precision.
For the sophisticated young collector, the Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain represents the ultimate 'insider's watch.' It doesn't scream for attention; it earns it through subtle details, impeccable finishing, and a movement that has been described as a modern marvel. With only 50 pieces in the initial steel series, it has become a grail for those who know where to look. This review dives deep into the watch's history, its mechanics, and its place in the current market, offering a critical look at why this piece is not just a timepiece but an investment in horological art.
Manufacture History
Akrivia was founded in 2012 by Rexhep Rexhepi, who had previously trained at Patek Philippe and worked for other prestigious houses. His vision was to create a brand that honored traditional watchmaking while pushing boundaries in design and mechanics. The Chronomètre Contemporain, released in 2018, was his first major collection, and it immediately put Akrivia on the map. The watch won the 'Men's Watch' prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) that year, a testament to its exceptional quality. Since then, Akrivia has expanded its catalog with tourbillons and regulators, but the RR01 remains the cornerstone of the brand's identity.
Movement
The heart of the Chronomètre Contemporain is the Calibre RR-01, a manual-winding movement that showcases Rexhepi's genius. It features a constant-force remontoir, a device that delivers a uniform amount of energy to the escapement, ensuring consistent amplitude and thus superior precision. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vph (3 Hz) and boasts a power reserve of 72 hours, thanks to a single mainspring barrel. The finishing is nothing short of spectacular: hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, black-polished steel parts, and a Geneva sunburst pattern on the mainplate. The balance wheel is large and free-sprung, with a hairspring that is manufactured in-house. Every detail is executed to the highest standard, making the RR-01 a visual feast when viewed through the sapphire caseback.
Specifications
- Case: 38mm stainless steel, 8.6mm thick, 46mm lug-to-lug
- Crystal: Sapphire front and back
- Water resistance: 30 meters
- Lume: None
- Strap: Leather with pin buckle
- Movement: Manual-wind Caliber RR-01, 30 jewels, 21,600 vph, 72-hour power reserve
The dimensions are classic and wearable. The 38mm case is a nod to vintage dress watches, but the execution is thoroughly modern. The lugs are gracefully curved, and the polishing is mirror-like. The dial is made of enamel, giving it a brilliant white hue that contrasts beautifully with the blue hands. The small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock is slightly recessed, adding depth to the dial.
Wrist Feel
On the wrist, the Chronomètre Contemporain is a delight. The 38mm case sits perfectly, and the short lugs ensure it doesn't overhang even on smaller wrists. The thin profile (8.6mm) allows it to slip under a shirt cuff with ease, making it an ideal dress watch. The leather strap is comfortable from the first wear, and the pin buckle is secure without being bulky. The watch feels light but not insubstantial—it has a reassuring heft that speaks to its quality. Balance is excellent; the watch never tips to one side, and the weight distribution is even. Whether you're at a formal event or a casual dinner, it adapts seamlessly.
Accuracy
Thanks to the constant-force remontoir, the Chronomètre Contemporain delivers outstanding timekeeping. In daily use, you can expect an accuracy of +2 to +4 seconds per day, which is exceptional for a mechanical watch. The 72-hour power reserve is honest; the watch runs for a full three days, though the last 10 hours show a slight drop in amplitude. For best accuracy, winding it every morning is recommended. The remontoir also ensures that the amplitude remains stable, which contributes to consistent rate performance. This is a watch you can trust to keep time without constant adjustment.
Occasions
The Chronomètre Contemporain is a versatile watch that shines in formal settings. Its clean dial and elegant proportions make it perfect for black-tie events, weddings, and business meetings. However, it's also subtle enough for everyday wear with casual attire—the steel case and leather strap pair well with jeans and a blazer. It's not a sports watch, so leave it for the pool or the gym. But for any occasion where you want to make a quiet statement of good taste, this is the watch.
Wrist Presence
On a scale of 1 to 5, the wrist presence is a solid 4. It doesn't dominate the wrist like a large sports watch, but it commands attention through its sheer refinement. The white enamel dial reflects light beautifully, and the blue hands provide a striking contrast. The small seconds subdial with its fine ticks adds a layer of visual interest. People who know watches will recognize it immediately; those who don't will simply see a beautiful, understated timepiece. It's a watch for the discerning eye, not for the crowd.
Reference Variants
The original RR01 was produced in a limited series of 50 pieces in stainless steel. Later, Akrivia released a gold version with a slightly different dial layout (gold indices instead of painted) and a more exclusive feel. Both variants share the same movement and case dimensions. The gold version is even rarer, with only 20 pieces made. For collectors, the steel version is the most iconic, but the gold commands a premium on the secondary market.
Family References
The Chronomètre Contemporain is part of Akrivia's first generation of watches. The brand has since introduced the Tourbillon (ref. 01), the Tourbillon Regulator, and the Double Balance (ref. 02). These models share the same ethos of exceptional finishing and innovative mechanics, but they are more complex and expensive. The RR01 remains the entry point into the Akrivia universe, though 'entry' is a relative term given its price.
Other Models by Akrivia
Beyond the RR01, Akrivia offers a range of haute horlogerie pieces. The Tourbillon (ref. 01) features a flying tourbillon with a revolutionary design that incorporates a constant-force mechanism. The Tourbillon Regulator adds a regulator dial, and the Double Balance uses two balance wheels to improve rate stability. Each model is produced in tiny quantities and sold to a select clientele. For the collector, Akrivia represents the pinnacle of contemporary independent watchmaking.
Similar Watches
If you're looking for alternatives to the Chronomètre Contemporain, consider the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, which is another modern classic with impeccable finishing. Roger W. Smith's Series 2 is also a worthy contender, offering a hand-made movement with a distinctive style. For a more accessible option, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu is a celebrated timepiece with a unique aluminum dial and a high-precision movement. Each of these watches shares the Akrivia's commitment to craftsmanship and exclusivity.
Homages
For those who admire the aesthetic but can't afford the price, there are more affordable options. The Seiko Presage 'Arita' series features a white porcelain dial reminiscent of the Akrivia, though the finishing is far simpler. The Tissot Heritage 1938 offers a similar layout with a small seconds subdial, but it lacks the technical sophistication. These homages capture the visual spirit but not the essence.
Investment Value
The Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain is a stellar investment. Originally priced at around $30,000, it now trades for over $120,000 on the secondary market, and prices continue to climb. The limited production of 50 pieces, combined with the brand's growing reputation, ensures sustained demand. Auction results have been impressive: a steel example sold for CHF 115,000 at Phillips in 2021, and a gold version fetched over CHF 200,000 at Christie's in 2023. For the patient collector, this watch is likely to appreciate further as Akrivia's legacy solidifies.
Service Interval
Like all fine mechanical watches, the Chronomètre Contemporain requires regular maintenance. Akrivia recommends a service every 5 years, which includes a full disassembly, cleaning, and re-oiling of the movement. The cost is approximately $1,000, and the service must be performed by the brand or an authorized specialist. Due to the complexity of the constant-force mechanism, it's essential to have it serviced by experts who understand the intricacies. Turnaround time is typically 3-4 months.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Exceptional movement finishing with a constant-force remontoir
- Limited production of 50 pieces ensures rarity
- GPHG 2018 Men's Watch Prize winner
- Comfortable 38mm case with perfect proportions
Cons
- Very high price point, even for a luxury watch
- Only 30 meters water resistance, not suitable for swimming
- No date or other complications—pure time-only
- Extremely difficult to obtain, with a long waiting list
Final Verdict
The Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain is a landmark achievement in independent watchmaking. It offers a level of finishing and technical innovation that rivals pieces from much older maisons, and its limited production has made it a collector's dream. While the price is steep, the value has proven to appreciate, making it both a wearable masterpiece and a sound investment. For the discerning young collector, this is the watch that defines a generation.
