The Pforzheim Paradigm
In the world of luxury horology, the city of Pforzheim stands as a quiet titan of German manufacturing. While Glashütte claims the prestige of movement manufacture, Pforzheim is the historical heart of the German jewelry and watch-case industry. It is here that Archimede, a brand owned by the Ickler family, produces what many consider to be the finest entry-level luxury cases in the world. The Archimede Pilot 39 H . S . LS is the purest expression of this heritage.
To understand the Pilot 39, one must first understand the Ickler case. Unlike many brands at this price point that source components from Far East suppliers, Ickler manufactures their cases in-house using traditional milling and finishing techniques. The result is a tactile experience that is immediately discernible from its peers. The brushing is directional, fine-grained, and consistent across the lugs, mid-case, and bezel.
Case Architecture: The 9.9mm Revelation
The technical standout of the Pilot 39 is its thickness—or lack thereof. At a mere 9.9mm, it is one of the thinnest automatic pilot watches on the market. This is achieved through clever engineering of the case back and the use of the Sellita SW200-1, which allows for a streamlined profile without sacrificing structural rigidity. The lugs are short and taper aggressively, ensuring the 39mm diameter remains centered on the wrist.
The crown is a classic 'diamond' shape, a nod to the original B-Uhr watches which required large crowns for pilots wearing thick leather gloves. On the 39mm case, the crown is scaled perfectly; it provides ample grip for winding the Sellita movement but does not dig into the back of the hand during daily wear. The sapphire crystal is flat and features an anti-reflective coating on the interior, minimizing glare while maintaining the watch's tool-like aesthetic.
The Dial: Historical Purity
The 'H' in the reference number stands for 'Historic.' This is a critical distinction for the sophisticated collector. In the 1940s, the RLM (Reichsluftfahrtministerium) specifications for pilot watches demanded a dial free of branding, as these were military instruments, not consumer goods. Archimede honors this by removing the logo and the date window.
The result is a Type A dial that is a masterclass in legibility. The matte black surface absorbs light, providing a high-contrast backdrop for the luminous Arabic numerals and the iconic triangle at 12 o'clock. The hands are thermally blued—a process that involves heating the steel to a specific temperature to achieve a deep, iridescent blue that changes with the light. This is a high-end detail often omitted by lesser brands who prefer chemically painted hands.
Movement and Performance
Powering the Pilot 39 is the Sellita SW200-1. While some may pine for an in-house caliber, the choice of the SW200-1 is a pragmatic one that aligns with the watch's tool-watch ethos. It is a 26-jewel workhorse with a frequency of 4Hz, providing a smooth sweep of the seconds hand. The movement is visible through an optional display case back, though the standard solid back is more historically accurate.
In our testing, the movement performed admirably, maintaining a steady rate within +5 seconds per day. The reliability of the SW200-1 means that the Pilot 39 can be serviced by any qualified watchmaker in the world, ensuring that this is a timepiece that can be passed down through generations without the burden of proprietary service costs.
The Vivir Verdict
For the young collector who values engineering over artifice, the Archimede Pilot 39 H . S . LS is a compelling proposition. It offers the pedigree of a century-old case maker, the accuracy of a Swiss movement, and the aesthetic purity of a historic military instrument. It does not shout; it performs. In a world of over-designed luxury, the Pilot 39 is a refreshing reminder that sometimes, the most sophisticated choice is the most simple one.
