The Genesis of a Partnership: Bremont and Martin-Baker
In the world of luxury horology, collaborations are often ephemeral—marketing exercises designed to capitalize on a fleeting trend. However, the relationship between Bremont and Martin-Baker is built on a foundation of shared engineering philosophy. Martin-Baker, a British company, supplies ejection seats to 93 air forces worldwide. Their seats have saved over 7,600 lives. When Bremont approached them to design a watch, the requirement was not just to put a logo on a dial, but to subject the timepiece to the most rigorous testing regime in the industry.
The MB series was born from this necessity. The 'MBI' was reserved exclusively for those who had actually ejected from an aircraft using a Martin-Baker seat—a club no one wishes to join, yet everyone respects. The MBII was developed to bring that same level of over-engineered resilience to the civilian market. The reference MBII-WH-BL, with its crisp white dial and striking blue barrel, represents the evolution of this tool watch into a versatile piece of modern design.
Case Architecture: The Trip-Tick® Innovation
The defining technical feature of the MBII is Bremont’s patented Trip-Tick® case construction. Unlike a traditional monobloc case, the Trip-Tick® consists of three distinct parts: the hardened steel top bezel, the central barrel (often knurled and colored), and the steel case back. This modular approach is not merely for show; it allows Bremont to use different materials and finishes for different sections of the watch, while also facilitating the movement’s isolation from external shocks.
The steel used in the bezel and case back is treated with B-EBE2000 technology. This process involves heat-treating the steel, then diffusing it with carbon and bombarding it with electrons. The result is a surface hardness of approximately 2000 Vickers—seven times that of standard 316L stainless steel. This makes the MBII incredibly resistant to the scratches and dings that typically plague daily-wear watches. The central barrel of the MBII-WH-BL is finished in a vibrant blue, achieved through an anodic oxidation process that ensures the color is deeply integrated into the aluminum.
Shock Protection and Magnetism
Inside the hardened exterior lies a sophisticated protection system for the mechanical movement. The BE-36AE caliber is suspended in a rubberized anti-shock mount. This mount acts as a buffer, absorbing high-frequency vibrations and sudden impacts that would otherwise disrupt the delicate balance of the escapement. This is the same technology tested on Martin-Baker’s vibration rigs, which simulate the extreme conditions of a jet cockpit.
In addition to shock resistance, the MBII features a Faraday cage. This inner soft-iron housing surrounds the movement, directing magnetic fields around it rather than through it. In an age where we are constantly surrounded by magnetic sources—from tablet covers to speakers—this protection is vital for maintaining the chronometric precision of the watch. The combination of these two features makes the MBII one of the most physically robust mechanical watches on the market.
The BE-36AE Caliber: A Reliable Heart
The movement powering the MBII is the BE-36AE, a chronometer-rated automatic caliber. While based on the venerable ETA 2836-2 architecture, Bremont performs significant modifications in their Henley-on-Thames facility. Each movement is regulated to COSC standards, ensuring a high degree of accuracy. The movement features a 38-hour power reserve and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
One of the more subtle technical delights is the skeletonized, decorated rotor, which is visible on some variants but hidden behind the solid, anti-magnetic case back of the MBII. The choice of a solid case back is a nod to the watch's functional roots; a sapphire case back would compromise the Faraday cage's effectiveness. The movement also includes a day-date complication, positioned at 3 o'clock, which provides a practical touch for the daily wearer.
The Roto-Click® Bezel: Haptic Engineering
At the 4 o'clock position, the MBII features a second crown that operates the internal rotating bezel. This is not a standard friction-fit bezel. It utilizes Bremont’s Roto-Click® technology, which incorporates four ball bearings that click into place as the bezel is turned. The tactile sensation is precise and mechanical, reminiscent of the switches found in a cockpit.
The internal bezel is used for tracking elapsed time, a critical function for pilots. By placing it under the sapphire crystal, Bremont ensures that the bezel cannot be accidentally moved or damaged by external forces. The knurling on the crowns matches the knurling on the central barrel, providing a cohesive aesthetic and ensuring that the watch can be operated even while wearing flight gloves.
Aesthetic Nuance: The White Dial and Blue Barrel
The MBII-WH-BL is perhaps the most legible variant in the lineup. The stark white dial provides a perfect canvas for the oversized, black Arabic numerals. The hands are heat-blued or painted black (depending on the specific production run) and filled with Super-LumiNova for low-light visibility. The 'seconds' hand features a yellow and black striped counterbalance, a direct reference to the pull-handle on a Martin-Baker ejection seat.
The blue barrel offers a sophisticated alternative to the more aggressive orange or red barrels found on other models. It softens the watch's appearance, making it easier to pair with a variety of attire, from flight suits to business casual. The contrast between the cold, hardened steel of the lugs and the textured blue of the barrel is a hallmark of Bremont’s design language—a celebration of industrial textures.
The Collector's Perspective: Value and Heritage
For the sophisticated young collector, the Bremont MBII represents an entry into a specific type of horology—one that prioritizes material science over traditional complications. While it may not have the same secondary market appreciation as certain Swiss counterparts, its value is found in its integrity. This is a watch that is built to last a lifetime of hard use.
The partnership with Martin-Baker is one of the few genuine collaborations in the industry. Every MBII is a descendant of a watch that was literally shot out of a cannon to test its limits. In an era of 'desk divers' and 'luxury' tool watches that never see a drop of water, the MBII stands out as a piece of equipment that is over-qualified for almost any situation its owner might find themselves in.
Conclusion
The Bremont MBII-WH-BL is more than the sum of its parts. It is a testament to British persistence and engineering. From the 2000 Vickers hardening of the steel to the Roto-Click® bezel and the anti-shock movement mount, every element of this watch has been designed with a purpose. It is a technical achievement that respects the traditions of horology while embracing the demands of modern aviation. For those who appreciate the 'how' and 'why' of watchmaking, the MBII is a compelling narrative on the wrist.
