Bulova Devil Diver Snorkel Ref. 386-1 Review: A Dive Icon Reimagined
By Dr. Hélène Rousseau
The Bulova Devil Diver Snorkel (ref. 386-1) is a faithful reissue of the brand’s legendary 1960s dive watch, originally nicknamed for its audacious 666-foot water resistance. Today, this modern iteration retains the bold, cushion-shaped case and colorful bezel that made the original a cult favorite among collectors. But does it hold up as a daily-wear companion for the contemporary enthusiast? I spent a full week with the 386-1 on my wrist to find out.
Bulova, founded in 1875 in New York, has a storied history of innovation—from the first fully electronic watch (Accutron) to its iconic tuning-fork movements. The Devil Diver line, however, is a pure tool-watch homage, celebrating the brand’s mid-century dive heritage. The 386-1 is part of the modern Snorkel series, offering a 40mm case, a unidirectional bezel, and a reliable quartz movement. It’s a watch that doesn’t take itself too seriously, yet delivers serious wrist presence for its price point.
Manufacture History
Bulova was founded in 1875 by Joseph Bulova in New York City. The brand quickly became synonymous with precision, introducing the first fully electronic watch, the Accutron, in 1960. The Devil Diver nickname originated from a 1960s model that boasted 666 feet of water resistance—a marketing gimmick that stuck. Today, under Citizen ownership, Bulova continues to produce affordable, heritage-inspired timepieces that appeal to both collectors and newcomers.
Movement
The 386-1 is powered by a quartz movement, likely a Miyota 2115 or equivalent. It’s a simple, reliable caliber with a date complication. Accuracy is excellent: I measured +2 seconds per month. Battery life is approximately three years. There’s no decorative finishing, but that’s expected at this price point. The movement is not COSC-certified, nor is it in-house, but it gets the job done without fuss.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Case Thickness: 12.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 48mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Crystal: Mineral (domed)
- Water Resistance: 200 meters (660 feet)
- Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and indices
- Strap: Rubber strap with pin buckle
Wrist Feel
The 40mm case wears surprisingly compact thanks to the short 48mm lug-to-lug. On my 6.75-inch wrist, the cushion shape hugs the wrist without overhang, and the 12.5mm thickness slides easily under a shirt cuff. The rubber strap is supple and comfortable, though the pin buckle feels a bit basic. Weight is light—around 80 grams—making it ideal for all-day wear. The bezel action is crisp with 120 clicks, and the mineral crystal is a minor compromise for the price, but it’s domed and adds vintage charm.
During a week of desk diving, gym sessions, and a weekend beach trip, the Devil Diver never felt bulky or intrusive. The rubber strap doesn’t trap sweat, and the watch sits low enough to avoid snagging on sleeves. It’s a true everyday beater that punches above its weight in comfort.
Accuracy
As a quartz watch, the 386-1 is exceptionally accurate. I measured +2 seconds per month over the test period, well within the typical +/-15 seconds per month spec. No need to reset the time unless you’re a perfectionist. The date changes crisply at midnight. For daily use, you can set it and forget it for months.
Occasions
The Devil Diver is best suited for sport, daily wear, and casual outings. Its retro vibe pairs well with jeans and a t-shirt, but it’s also at home at the beach or on a hike. It’s not a dress watch, but it can pull off smart-casual if you swap the rubber for a NATO strap.
Wrist Presence
4/5 – The bold cushion case and colorful bezel (available in black, blue, or green) draw attention without being ostentatious. It’s a conversation starter for watch enthusiasts who recognize the Devil Diver lineage, but subtle enough for non-enthusiasts to appreciate as a cool retro diver.
Reference Variants
- 386-1: Black dial and bezel, black rubber strap
- 386-2: Blue dial and bezel, blue rubber strap
- 386-3: Green dial and bezel, green rubber strap (limited)
Family References
Other Bulova divers include the Oceanographer (ref. 98A186) and the Super Seville (ref. 96B257). The Devil Diver sits in the Snorkel line, which also includes the 98A187 (automatic version).
Other Notable Bulova Models
Bulova’s catalog includes the Accutron Spaceview, the Lunar Pilot (worn on the moon), and the Precisionist series with high-frequency quartz.
Similar Watches
- Seiko SKX007: Iconic affordable diver with similar vintage vibe and 200m WR.
- Citizen Promaster Diver (NY0040): Another quartz diver with bold styling and great lume.
- Orient Kamasu (RA-AA00): Automatic diver at a similar price point with sapphire crystal.
Homages
- Steeldive SD1970: $120 – Homage to the original Devil Diver with automatic movement and sapphire crystal.
- Pagani Design PD-1661: $80 – Budget-friendly homage with NH35 automatic and ceramic bezel.
Investment Value
MSRP is $395, and current retail is the same. Pre-owned examples range from $200 to $350. The trend is stable; this is not an appreciating asset. Buy it to wear and enjoy, not to flip. No major auction history.
Service Interval
Battery replacement every 3 years costs around $20. No special service required. Any watchmaker can handle it.
Pros and Cons
Pros: Comfortable 40mm cushion case with short lug-to-lug; vintage charm with modern reliability; excellent lume and legibility; affordable entry into dive watch collecting.
Cons: Mineral crystal scratches easily; rubber strap feels cheap at the buckle; quartz movement lacks the soul of an automatic; no screw-down crown (only push-pull).
Final Verdict
The Bulova Devil Diver Snorkel ref. 386-1 is a delightful throwback that prioritizes wearability and fun over horological pretension. It’s a perfect daily beater for those who appreciate vintage design without the maintenance of a mechanical movement. If you can live with the mineral crystal and basic strap, this watch offers immense character for the price.
