By Kilian Love And Tears: A Fragrant Elegy of Jasmine and Sorrow
An olfactory exploration of love's most poignant duality, captured in a masterpiece of modern perfumery.
In the pantheon of modern luxury perfumery, few houses possess the narrative depth and technical audacity of By Kilian. Founded in 2007 by Kilian Hennessy, scion of the famed cognac dynasty, the brand has consistently positioned itself at the intersection of hedonism, art, and olfactory storytelling. The release of Love And Tears in 2010 marked a pivotal moment for the house, a deliberate departure from the opulent, often gourmand-infused fantasies of its earlier collections. It signified a maturation, a willingness to explore the more complex, melancholic facets of human emotion through scent. This fragrance was not merely a perfume; it was an entry into Kilian''s ''L''Œuvre Noire'' collection, a series dedicated to exploring the darker, more philosophical aspects of desire and existence.
Positioned as a unisex offering, Love And Tears occupies a unique space within the brand''s portfolio. It eschews the immediate sweetness of Love, Don''t Be Shy or the smoky intensity of Straight to Heaven. Instead, it presents itself as an intellectual, almost somber composition, aimed at the connoisseur who seeks beauty in melancholy. Its market positioning is unequivocally niche, speaking to an audience that values nuance over bombast and narrative over mere pleasantry. It is a fragrance for contemplation, for moments of quiet intensity rather than exuberant celebration.
The inspiration behind Love And Tears is as poetic as its name suggests. Kilian Hennessy conceived it as an olfactory representation of the bittersweet tears shed in the name of love—not those of despair, but of overwhelming emotion, of a beauty so profound it moves one to tears. The concept draws from the Japanese aesthetic of ''mono no aware,'' the poignant awareness of the transience of things, a gentle sadness at their passing. This is not a fragrance about the beginning of a romance, but rather its deepest, most vulnerable core, where joy and sorrow are inextricably linked. The perfumer was tasked with bottling this delicate, contradictory state.
Within the fragrance community, Love And Tears has cultivated a reputation as a ''perfumer''s perfume''—a composition revered for its technical brilliance and emotional resonance. It is often cited in discussions of masterful jasmine soliflores and complex white floral accords. While it may not boast the mass appeal or viral compliment-factor of some contemporaries, its cultural impact lies in its steadfast dedication to an artistic vision. It has influenced a generation of niche releases to pursue more challenging, emotionally-charged narratives, cementing its status as a modern classic for those who appreciate perfumery as a form of high art.
The Nose Behind the Scent
Calice Becker. A legendary perfumer and Vice President of Givaudan''s Perfumery School, Becker is renowned for her mastery of white florals and complex, luminous compositions. Her illustrious portfolio includes iconic creations such as J''adore by Dior, Tommy Girl by Tommy Hilfiger, and Kilian''s own Good Girl Gone Bad. Her ability to render abstract emotions into precise, beautiful accords is perfectly showcased in Love And Tears.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The fragrance opens with a startling, almost medicinal burst of neroli and bergamot, sharp and green. This is not a soft, diffusive citrus; it is crisp, slightly bitter, and intensely clean, evoking the first, shocking intake of breath before a sob. Within minutes, the green facets of galbanum begin to weave through, adding a sappy, stem-like texture that grounds the initial brightness.
As the heart phase unfolds over the first hour, the true soul of the fragrance emerges: a breathtakingly realistic jasmine duo. Jasmine Sambac brings its indolic, animalic warmth—a scent deeply associated with the human body and intimacy—while Jasmine Grandiflorum contributes a cleaner, more tea-like floralcy. They are supported by the soapy-pure aura of lily of the valley and the honeyed bitterness of orange blossom. This phase is profoundly emotional, a lush, living bouquet that feels both beautiful and mournful, capturing the ''tears'' of the concept with its damp, dewy quality.
After four hours or more, the storm of florals gradually recedes, leaving a serene, skin-like trail. The white musks come to the fore, clean and soft, but with a subtle, persistent warmth that feels intimately human. The ghost of jasmine lingers, now fused with the earthy, mossy whisper of oakmoss and the faintly resinous green of galbanum. The drydown is elegant, comforting, and remarkably tenacious, like the memory of a powerful emotion that has settled into a gentle ache.
Performance Dashboard
Exceptional longevity, consistently lasting 10-12 hours on skin and days on fabric. The musk and floral heart notes possess remarkable tenacity.
Moderate projection, creating an intimate aura of about an arm''s length for the first 3-4 hours. It is a scent meant to be discovered, not announced.
Leaves a delicate, close-to-the-skin trail. The sillage is subtle but persistent, more of a whispered suggestion than a bold statement.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
A low-to-moderate compliment getter. Compliments, when received, are typically thoughtful and specific (''You smell interesting/beautiful''), rather than frequent and generic. It attracts those with a refined nose.
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Masterful, hyper-realistic jasmine rendering
- ✅ Exceptional longevity and evolution
- ✅ Unique, emotionally resonant concept and scent profile
- ✅ High-quality, luxurious ingredients with no synthetic harshness
- ✅ Elegant, versatile unisex appeal
- ❌ Premium price point places it in the ultra-luxury segment
- ❌ The indolic opening can be challenging for some
- ❌ Subtle sillage may disappoint those seeking loud projection
- ❌ Not a safe blind-buy due to its complex character
Price & Value
“While prohibitively expensive for many, it represents value for the serious fragrance collector or jasmine aficionado due to its unparalleled raw material quality, artistic vision, and exceptional performance. It is an investment in olfactory art.”
📜 Reformulation History
No significant, widely documented batch variations or reformulations have been reported for Love And Tears. By Kilian maintains stringent quality control, and the composition has remained remarkably consistent since its 2010 launch, a testament to the house''s commitment to its artistic statements.
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Individuals aged 30+ seeking intellectual, non-sweet fragrances
- White floral enthusiasts who appreciate indolic complexity
- Those with a contemplative or artistic personality
- Both men and women who favor gender-fluid, elegant scents
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Those seeking a simple, crowd-pleasing scent
- People averse to pronounced indolic or green notes
- Beginners to niche perfumery who may find its emotional weight challenging
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
A profound, soliflore jasmine that is greener and more linear, sharing the same intense, nocturnal floral heart.
Explores jasmine with a contrasting, ashy tobacco note, offering a different take on a complex, bittersweet emotion.
While amber-based, it shares a similar sense of elegant, evening-appropriate melancholy and exceptional quality.
Another monumental white floral (tuberose) known for its realism, complexity, and emotional depth, appealing to the same connoisseur audience.
💡 Clone Alternatives
A well-regarded indie homage that captures the jasmine heart and green facets at a fraction of the cost, though with less nuance.
A powerful, indolic jasmine and ylang-ylang solid perfume that offers a bold, budget-friendly take on a narcotic white floral profile.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
A melancholic, dewy lilac and cucumber scent that shares a similar feeling of poignant, transient beauty.
A contrasting but complementary choice; a soft, powdery iris with a leather base, offering another intellectual take on luxury materials.
For those who enjoy the crisp, clean neroli opening of Love And Tears but prefer a brighter, more solar and linear development.
More from By Kilian
Another Calice Becker masterpiece, exploring osmanthus and narcotic white florals with a fruity opening.
A rich, boozy, and woody fragrance centered around rum and cedar, representing hedonistic warmth.
A gourmand-oriental inspired by cognac aging, with notes of oak, cinnamon, and tonka bean.
A dark, gourmand fragrance with rum, coffee, and caramel, exploring more fantastical, narrative-driven territory.
🧪 Layering Ideas
- A light, clean skin musk (e.g., Escentric Molecules Molecule 01) to amplify the drydown''s intimacy
- A minimalist woody scent (e.g., Le Labo Santal 33) to add structure and warmth to the floral heart
- A sheer amber or vanilla balm applied lightly underneath to sweeten the base very subtly for cooler weather
🏆 Final Verdict
By Kilian Love And Tears is not merely a fragrance to be worn; it is an experience to be felt. It stands as one of the most articulate and moving white floral compositions of the 21st century, a testament to Calice Becker''s genius and Kilian Hennessy''s visionary storytelling. One should purchase this fragrance not for compliments or trendiness, but for the profound personal dialogue it initiates. It is for the wearer who finds beauty in complexity, who appreciates the artistry of a perfectly captured emotion, and who seeks a scent that is both a companion and a catalyst for introspection.
Its value lies in its unwavering commitment to quality and concept. In an era of fleeting trends, Love And Tears remains a pillar of thoughtful, enduring perfumery. It is a worthy acquisition for the discerning collector, the jasmine devotee, or anyone seeking a fragrance that possesses a soul. To own it is to possess a bottle of poignant beauty, a fragrant elegy that reminds us that the deepest love is often intertwined with the most tender tears.