Love By Kilian Rose And Oud Special Blend 2020: A Review of Opulent Seduction
Where the Velvet of Rose Meets the Smoke of Oud in a Timeless, Intimate Embrace
In the world of niche perfumery, few names command the reverence and intrigue of Kilian Hennessy. His eponymous house, By Kilian, has built a reputation on creating fragrances that are not merely scents, but stories—often dark, always luxurious, and dripping with hedonistic intent. The year 2020, amidst global uncertainty, saw the release of a fragrance that felt like a defiant celebration of beauty and connection: the Love By Kilian Rose And Oud Special Blend. This wasn't just another rose-oud composition; it was a deliberate, limited-edition refinement of an existing icon, a whisper of something even more precious and potent.
Positioned within the brand's opulent 'The Cellars' collection, which reimagines classic cocktails, the original Love (Don't Be Shy) is a famously sweet, marshmallow-and-orange-blossom confection. The Rose And Oud Special Blend 2020, however, takes a dramatic left turn. It belongs to a different, more mature narrative—one of passion, depth, and the beautiful decay that makes love profound. This special blend was Kilian's answer to the connoisseur's craving for a rose-oud pairing executed with uncompromising quality and a distinctively French, almost couture-like sensibility.
The inspiration is pure Kilian: a love story told not in pastels, but in rich, contrasting textures. It explores the duality of love itself—the tender, blooming softness of the rose juxtaposed with the dark, weathered, and intensely animalic soul of oud. This is not a shy, dewy rose in a morning garden. This is a damask rose at midnight, its petals velvety and full, laid upon aged wood that still smolders from a long-extinguished fire. The concept is to capture the moment of surrender, where beauty acknowledges depth, and softness finds strength in darkness.
Within the fragrance community, the Rose And Oud Special Blend 2020 quickly garnered a cult following. It's spoken of in hushed, reverent tones by those who have experienced it. It's considered a benchmark for a certain style of Westernized rose-oud—one that is polished, incredibly smooth, and devoid of the challenging, medicinal sharpness some ouds can possess. It represents a gateway to the oud genre for those wary of its extremes, while simultaneously satisfying seasoned oud lovers with its quality and wearability. Its reputation is that of a 'safe' masterpiece—a paradox that only true excellence can achieve.
The Nose Behind the Scent
Calice Becker. A legendary perfumer and Vice President of Givaudan's prestigious Perfumery School, Becker is the nose behind some of the most iconic modern fragrances, including Tommy Girl, J'adore Dior, and Kilian's own Good Girl Gone Bad. Her signature lies in creating complex, beautifully balanced accords that feel both innovative and timeless.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The first spray is a breathtakingly opulent and spicy floral bouquet. The Turkish rose is immediately present—luscious, jammy, and slightly honeyed—but it is instantly wrapped in the golden, aromatic warmth of saffron and the peppery-green whisper of cardamom. There is no alcoholic blast, only an immediate richness that feels like unfolding a piece of antique, spice-infused velvet. The oud is present from the start, but as a supporting actor, a smoky, woody hum in the background that gives the rose incredible gravity.
As the fragrance settles on the skin over the first hour, the heart reveals its true duality. The Damask rose absolute emerges, bringing a deeper, more narcotic and slightly lemony facet to the floral core. The oud now steps forward to dance as an equal partner. This is a refined, clean oud note—think of the scent of an old, polished rosewood chest, smoky and resinous, without any harsh barnyard or medicinal edges. The spices soften, weaving into the central rose-oud accord, creating a scent that is intensely warm, woody-floral, and mesmerizingly smooth.
The final phase, lasting for many hours, is a sublime skin scent of profound intimacy. The rose, while still detectable, has melded seamlessly with the woody base. The oud softens further, blending with the earthy depth of patchouli, the dry creaminess of cedarwood, and a soft, golden amber glow. A clean, skin-like musk ties everything together. The drydown is less about distinct notes and more about an aura—a warm, comforting, slightly spicy and woody embrace that feels like a secret held close to the skin. It’s the memory of the passionate opening, now softened into tender affection.
Performance Dashboard
Exceptional. Easily lasts 12-14 hours on skin, and can be detected on clothing for 24+ hours. It is a fragrance that evolves throughout the day but never truly disappears.
Strong and noticeable for the first 3-4 hours, creating a personal scent bubble of about an arm's length. It then moderates to a more intimate but still perceptible presence.
Leaves a beautiful, enticing trail, especially in the first half of its wear. It’s not a room-filling beast, but people will notice and remember your scent as you pass by.
When to Wear
Community Verdict
Receives frequent, sophisticated compliments. The compliments are often of the "You smell incredible, what is that?" variety—curious and impressed, rather than generic. It attracts people who appreciate quality.
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Exquisite, seamless blending of rose and oud
- ✅ Exceptional longevity and strong performance
- ✅ Polished, wearable, and never challenging
- ✅ Luxurious, high-quality ingredients are palpable
- ✅ Unisex appeal with a timeless, elegant character
- ❌ Very high price point, especially for the Special Blend
- ❌ Not a versatile, all-season, all-occasion scent
- ❌ The rose-oud combo, while refined, may not be unique enough for some collectors
Price & Value
“Worth the price for a fragrance enthusiast or someone seeking a signature, special-occasion masterpiece. The quality, performance, and artistry justify the cost, but it is undoubtedly an investment.”
📜 Reformulation History
As a limited-edition 'Special Blend' from 2020, there is little to no discussion of batch variations. It was produced in a single, finite run with strict quality control. The primary distinction is between this Special Blend and the standard (and now discontinued) Rose & Oud release, with the Special Blend reportedly featuring a richer, more pronounced oud accord.
Who It's For
✅ Ideal For
- Women and men aged 30+ who appreciate nuanced luxury
- Fragrance connoisseurs seeking a refined rose-oud
- Confident individuals with a classic yet sensual style
- Those who value intimacy and depth over loud statements
⚠️ Not Recommended For
- Beginners or those seeking a fresh, light, or citrusy scent
- People who are averse to rose or prominent woody notes
- Very hot climate dwellers as a daily driver
- Those on a strict budget
The Family
The original, famously sweet orange blossom and marshmallow scent from the same 'Love' line
An intensified, even sweeter and more voluptuous version of the original
Explore More
🔍 Similar Fragrances
Another exceptionally smooth, Western rose-oud, but with a sweeter, vanilla-laden drydown and more pronounced sillage.
A monumental rose-patchouli-incense fragrance; shares the grand, dramatic rose character but is more patchouli-forward and less woody-oud focused.
A darker, drier, and more medicinal take on rose and oud, with prominent patchouli and sandalwood.
A spicier, more incense-laden and complex rose-oud with tea and frankincense, offering a more Middle Eastern-inspired interpretation.
💡 Clone Alternatives
Often cited as a very close dupe for the MFK Oud Satin Mood, which shares a similar rose-oud-vanilla DNA, at a fraction of the price.
A popular oil-based dupe inspired by the rose-oud genre, offering good longevity and a similar profile for layering.
❤️ You May Also Enjoy
For those who love the luxurious, long-lasting, and slightly sweetened aura of a high-end niche fragrance.
Shares a similar depth, warmth, and pairing of a precious material (tobacco/rose) with oud in a polished, wearable way.
For the lover of a distinctive, woody, and intimate skin scent that feels personal and crafted.
For those drawn to the luxurious, high-quality rose heart, though Delina is brighter, fruitier, and more effervescent.
More from By Kilian
A warm, boozy gourmand with cognac, cinnamon, and oak
A dark, surreal gourmand with rum, coffee, and caramel
A narcotic floral with osmanthus, tuberose, and a hint of peach
A boozy, woody fragrance with rum, cedar, and patchouli
A crisp, clean, and aromatic scent from The Cellars collection
🧪 Layering Ideas
- A light, clean musk solinote to amplify the skin-like drydown
- A vanilla-centric fragrance like Kilian's 'Rolling in Love' to sweeten and soften the woody core
- A single spray of a crisp citrus cologne (like Atelier Cologne's 'Orange Sanguine') on the chest under the Rose & Oud to add a surprising sparkle to the opening
🏆 Final Verdict
Love By Kilian Rose And Oud Special Blend 2020 is more than a perfume; it is an experience in a bottle. It represents the pinnacle of accessible oud perfumery—a masterclass in how to render a potentially intimidating note into something universally beautiful, wearable, and deeply seductive. Calice Becker’s composition is flawless, a seamless journey from opulent, spicy rose to a smoky, woody heart, finally settling into the most intimate and comforting amber-musk embrace.
You should buy this fragrance if you are seeking a signature scent for cold evenings and special moments that speaks of confidence, luxury, and refined taste. It is for the person who wants to be remembered not for shouting, but for the compelling, warm aura they leave in their wake. While the price is a significant consideration, the exceptional quality of ingredients, the stellar performance, and the sheer artistry involved make it a justifiable investment for those who view fragrance as an essential part of their personal luxury.
In a world full of transient trends, this Special Blend feels timeless. It doesn't smell like 2020; it smells like a love letter written on aged parchment with ink made of crushed rose petals and oud resin. It is a fragrance that becomes a part of your story, a olfactory heirloom for the modern connoisseur. If you have the opportunity to acquire it, do not hesitate. This is the kind of scent that defines a chapter of your life.