Introduction
The Cartier Cloche de Cartier (ref. WHCC0008) is not a watch for the faint of wrist. It’s a reissue of a 1920s design that was originally conceived as a desk clock on a strap — a bell-shaped case that, when placed on its side, reads like a miniature timepiece. For the trust-fund-baby collector who already owns a Tank and a Santos, the Cloche offers something genuinely different: a conversation piece that doubles as a horological artifact.
Released in 2021 as part of Cartier’s Privé collection, the Cloche de Cartier is a limited-production model that has already begun to appreciate on the secondary market. With a manual-wind movement, a case that defies conventional geometry, and a dial that screams ‘I know my Cartier history,’ this watch is a bet on the brand’s ability to turn nostalgia into profit. But is it a hold or a flip? Let’s break down the numbers.
In this review, we’ll dissect the movement, the wrist feel, the investment trajectory, and whether this bell-shaped beauty deserves a spot in your safe — or on your wrist. Spoiler: it’s a hold, but only if you have the patience for a niche market.
Manufacture History
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier and quickly became the jeweler of kings. The Cloche de Cartier first appeared in the 1920s as a novelty piece, designed to be worn on the wrist or used as a miniature clock. The modern reissue in 2021 revived this asymmetrical shape, cementing Cartier’s reputation for avant-garde design within the luxury watch world.
Movement
The hand-wound Caliber 1917 MC is a Cartier manufacture movement with Côtes de Genève decoration, blued screws, and beveled bridges. It’s a no-nonsense, time-only caliber that prioritizes reliability and aesthetic finishing over complexity. With a 38-hour power reserve and 21,600 vph frequency, it’s a classic manual-wind movement that requires daily winding. The finishing is excellent for the price point, with visible perlage on the mainplate and a polished winding rotor (though it’s a manual wind, so no rotor — the movement is hand-wound). The bridges are beveled and the screws are blued, giving it a traditional look that matches the vintage-inspired case.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 37mm (height) x 28.75mm (width)
- Case Thickness: 8.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 28.75mm (effectively the width)
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Lume: None
- Bracelet/Strap: Black alligator leather with deployant clasp
Wrist Feel
The Cloche de Cartier is an exercise in asymmetry. The case measures 37mm tall and 28.75mm wide, but because it’s shaped like a bell (or a cloche, French for bell), it wears smaller than the numbers suggest. On a 6.5-inch wrist, the watch sits off-center, with the crown at the 12 o’clock position — a deliberate quirk that forces you to tilt your wrist to read the time. It’s not a daily beater; it’s a statement piece that demands attention.
The leather strap is supple and the deployant clasp is smooth, but the real story is the weight. At just 45 grams on the wrist, the Cloche feels almost ethereal. It’s a dress watch through and through, and while the 30m water resistance means you can’t take it swimming, you won’t want to. This is a watch for dinners, gallery openings, and boardrooms where the goal is to be noticed without trying.
Accuracy
In real-world use, the Caliber 1917 MC runs within +5 to +10 seconds per day when fully wound. Manual-wind movements require daily winding, and accuracy can drift if the watch is left unwound for extended periods. Expect consistent performance as long as you maintain a routine — this is not a set-and-forget quartz piece.
Occasions
The Cloche de Cartier is best suited for formal events, dressy occasions, and daily wear if you’re comfortable with its unique shape. It’s not a sports watch, so leave it at home for the gym or the beach.
Wrist Presence
4/5 — The Cloche’s bell shape is instantly recognizable and draws stares. It’s not loud, but it’s undeniably unique. On the wrist, it commands attention without being ostentatious, making it a perfect conversation starter for those who know their Cartier lore.
Reference Variants
- WHCC0008 — Stainless steel, silvered opaline dial with black Roman numerals, black alligator strap. Standard production.
- WHCC0009 — 18k yellow gold, champagne dial with blued hands, brown alligator strap. Limited edition.
- WHCC0010 — Stainless steel with diamond-set bezel, grained silver dial with diamond indices, black alligator strap. Boutique exclusive.
Family References
The Cloche de Cartier is part of Cartier’s Privé collection, which also includes the Tank Asymétrique and the Crash. Vintage Cloche models from the 1920s-1930s are highly collectible and can fetch five figures at auction.
Other Notable Cartier Models
If the Cloche isn’t your style, consider the Cartier Tank Louis Cartier (classic rectangular), the Santos de Cartier (square with exposed screws), or the Ballon Bleu (round with a distinctive crown guard).
Similar Watches
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic — Art deco-inspired, asymmetrical dress watch with a strong design heritage.
- Patek Philippe Gondolo 4962R — Tonneau-shaped manual-wind dress watch that shares the Cloche’s vintage charm and exclusivity.
- Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 — Another asymmetrical design with a tilted dial, appealing to collectors of quirky horology.
Homages
For a budget-friendly nod to the bell shape, the Lorus RHM001 offers a quartz movement and a similar silhouette for under $100, but it lacks the finishing and movement quality of the Cartier.
Investment Value
MSRP: $6,800
Current Retail: $7,200 (boutique price)
Pre-Owned Range: $5,500–$7,500
Trend: Appreciating
Hold Recommendation: The Cloche de Cartier is a niche collectible with limited production. Hold for 5-10 years as Cartier’s shaped watches gain traction among younger collectors. Flipping now yields marginal profit; patience pays off.
Auction History: A stainless steel Cloche de Cartier (ref. WHCC0008) sold at Christie’s in 2023 for $8,400, above retail. Gold variants have fetched up to $12,000 at Phillips.
Service Interval
Cartier recommends service every 5 years at an authorized service center. The manual-wind movement is straightforward, but parts availability for the 1917 MC is limited to Cartier. Expect to pay around $600 for a full service.
Price Range
Range: $5,500–$7,500
Verdict: For the trust-fund-baby buyer, this is a low-risk entry into Cartier’s Privé collection. The pre-owned market is stable, and the watch holds value better than most Cartier non-sports models.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Unique bell-shaped case that stands out in any collection
- Manual-wind movement with beautiful finishing
- Strong Cartier heritage and limited production
- Comfortable on the wrist despite unusual shape
Cons
- Small size may not suit larger wrists
- 30m water resistance limits daily wear
- No lume or date complication
- Manual winding requires daily attention
Final Verdict
The Cartier Cloche de Cartier is a horological oddity that rewards those who appreciate design over convention. It’s a conversation starter and a piece of Cartier history, but not for the faint of wrist. If you’re a trust-fund-baby looking to diversify into niche collectibles, this is a solid hold. Just don’t expect to wear it every day.
