Introduction
The Mille Miglia is more than a race; it’s a rolling museum of automotive passion, and Chopard has been its official timekeeper since 1988. The Mille Miglia GTS collection distills that heritage into a line of robust, daily-wearable watches that don’t just sit in a safe. I spent a full week with the reference 168571-3001—the time-and-date automatic on a black rubber strap—to see if it truly survives the rigors of a modern, active life. From morning coffee runs to late-night drives, this watch rarely left my wrist.
What immediately struck me was how the GTS balances vintage racing cues with contemporary wearability. The engine-turned dial, the Dunlop tire-tread strap, and the bold Arabic numerals all scream classic motorsport, yet the 43mm case wears with a surprising civility. As someone who reviews watches through the lens of daily comfort, I was skeptical about the diameter, but the lug-to-lug measurement and the supple strap changed my mind. This is a watch that invites you to wear it, not just admire it.
In this review, I’ll walk you through every facet of the Mille Miglia GTS Automatic, from the in-house movement’s real-world accuracy to the way the case settles on the wrist during a 12-hour day. I’ll also address the elephant in the room: does a 43mm racing watch still make sense for the sophisticated young collector, or is it a relic of a bygone big-watch era? The answer, as you’ll see, is nuanced and deeply personal.
A Week on the Wrist
Monday morning, I strapped on the GTS with a hint of trepidation. At 43mm, it’s larger than my usual 38–40mm comfort zone. The first thing I noticed was the strap: the black rubber, molded with a 1960s Dunlop racing tire tread, is incredibly soft and pliable. It doesn’t need a break-in period; it conforms to the wrist immediately. The pin buckle is simple, but it’s low-profile and never dug into my wrist bone during hours of typing. By Tuesday, I had forgotten I was wearing a watch over 40mm.
Wednesday brought a long drive and a dinner out. The curved lugs and the 50.5mm lug-to-lug distance meant the watch never overhung my 6.5-inch wrist. The 11.43mm thickness slipped under a shirt cuff without a fight—a rarity for a sports watch with 100m water resistance. I wore it while washing my hands, caught in a rain shower, and even during a light jog; the rubber strap stayed put, and the case showed no signs of discomfort. The weight, around 90 grams, felt substantial but never fatiguing.
By Friday, the GTS had become my default grab-and-go. The legibility is outstanding: the white Arabic numerals and luminous hands pop against the black dial, and the anti-reflective sapphire crystal keeps reflections at bay. The date window at 4:30 is a divisive choice, but in practice, it’s unobtrusive and easy to read at a glance. The engine-turned center dial catches light beautifully, adding depth without being flashy. This is a watch that looks better the longer you wear it.
The Movement: Chopard 01.01-C
Flip the watch over, and the sapphire caseback reveals the in-house Caliber 01.01-C. This is a genuine manufacture movement, not a modified ETA, and it shows. The finishing includes circular graining on the mainplate, Côtes de Genève on the bridges, and a skeletonized rotor with the Chopard logo. For a watch at this price, the decoration is impressive and adds a layer of horological credibility that many competitors lack.
The 01.01-C beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, carries 31 jewels, and boasts a 60-hour power reserve. It’s COSC-certified, so you can expect chronometer-level accuracy. In my testing, it delivered a consistent +3 seconds per day, whether worn actively or left dial-up overnight. Over the full week, the total deviation was just 21 seconds fast—no need for correction. The 60-hour reserve meant I could take it off Friday evening and have it still running Monday morning, a practical boon for a weekend rotation.
Specifications at a Glance
- Case diameter: 43mm
- Thickness: 11.43mm
- Lug-to-lug: 50.5mm
- Case material: Stainless steel
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 100 meters
- Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and indices
- Strap: Black rubber with Dunlop tire tread pattern
- Clasp: Stainless steel pin buckle
Wrist Feel and Daily Comfort
I’ve already touched on this, but it bears repeating: the Mille Miglia GTS wears far smaller than its dimensions suggest. The secret lies in the curved lugs that wrap downward, the relatively thin profile, and the forgiving rubber strap. On my 6.5-inch wrist, there was no overhang, and the watch sat centered and stable. The tire-tread strap is not just a gimmick; it’s genuinely comfortable, with a slight texture that prevents it from sticking to the skin in hot weather. The pin buckle, while less luxurious than a deployant, is secure and doesn’t add bulk. After a week of continuous wear, I had no irritation, no hair-pulling, and no desire to take it off.
Accuracy and Real-World Performance
COSC certification promises -4/+6 seconds per day, and the 01.01-C delivered. My unit ran at a steady +3 seconds per day, which is excellent for a non-METAS movement. I tested it in various positions—dial up, crown down, and on the wrist during mixed activities—and the rate remained consistent. The 60-hour power reserve is a genuine asset; I could leave it off for a full weekend and pick it up Monday morning without resetting the time. For a daily wearer, this level of accuracy and autonomy is exactly what you want.
Occasions and Versatility
The GTS is unapologetically sporty, but its all-black execution on rubber keeps it from being a one-trick pony. I wore it with jeans and a t-shirt, with a polo and chinos, and even with a casual blazer—it never felt out of place. It’s not a dress watch, and it won’t replace your Calatrava, but it owns the smart-casual space with confidence. The 100m water resistance means you can swim with it, though I’d avoid the leather strap variant for that. For travel, the 60-hour reserve and robust build make it an ideal companion. I’d classify it as a sport, daily, and travel watch, with a slight edge toward motorsport events and weekend adventures.
Wrist Presence
On the wrist, the Mille Miglia GTS has a 4/5 presence. The 43mm case and the engine-turned dial catch the eye, but the black-on-black color scheme tempers the flash. It’s bold without being brash, and the racing pedigree gives it a story that watch enthusiasts will appreciate. Strangers won’t stop you on the street, but fellow petrolheads will nod in recognition.
Reference Variants and Family
The reference 168571-3001 is the black dial on a black rubber strap. Chopard also offers the 168571-3002 with a silver dial and the same rubber strap, which gives a brighter, more vintage feel. For those who prefer leather, the 168571-3003 pairs the black dial with a perforated brown calfskin strap that evokes classic driving gloves. Within the GTS family, you’ll find the Power Control with a power reserve indicator, the GTS Chronograph, and the Automatic Chrono, all sharing the same design language and case architecture.
Competitors and Alternatives
The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 is a natural rival, offering racing heritage and a COSC movement in a smaller 39mm or 41mm case, though it uses a Sellita-based caliber. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is a more versatile, METAS-certified option with a co-axial movement, but it lacks the motorsport-specific design. For a vintage racing vibe in a smaller package, the Longines Heritage 1945 is charming, but it relies on an ETA-based movement. If you’re on a budget, the Dan Henry 1964 Gran Turismo Chronograph captures the aesthetic for under $300, albeit with a quartz movement.
Investment and Value
With an MSRP of $5,450, the GTS sits in a competitive bracket. The in-house movement and COSC certification justify the price, but the watch does depreciate on the secondary market. Pre-owned examples trade between $3,200 and $4,500, making a gently used model a smart buy. Don’t expect this to appreciate like a steel sports Rolex; it’s a watch to wear and enjoy, not to flip. Service intervals are around five years, with a cost of approximately $600 at an authorized center. While independent watchmakers can handle the 01.01-C, I’d recommend sticking with Chopard to maintain warranty and access to genuine parts.
Final Verdict
The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic ref. 168571-3001 is a watch that rewards daily wear. It translates the romance of open-road racing into a practical, comfortable package without sacrificing horological substance. The in-house movement, the legible dial, and the supple rubber strap make it a joy to live with, while the 43mm size—though not for everyone—wears with surprising grace. If you have the wrist for it and a passion for motorsport, this is a compelling daily driver that feels as good at the end of the week as it did on day one.
