Manufacture History

Doxa was founded in 1889 in Le Locle, Switzerland, and gained fame in the 1960s with the SUB series, the first dive watch to feature a no-decompression bezel. The brand became a favorite among professional divers and military units, and its distinctive orange dials and beads-of-rice bracelets are iconic. The SUB 200 C-GRAPH is a faithful reissue of the 1967 original, updated with modern materials and movements.

Movement

The watch is powered by the Sellita SW200-1, a Swiss automatic movement with 26 jewels, a 38-hour power reserve, and a frequency of 28,800 vph. It features a date complication and is not COSC-certified. The movement is reliable and easy to service, but finishing is basic—perlage on the rotor and minimal decoration. For the price, it’s perfectly adequate.

Specifications Case diameter: 45mm Case thickness: 17.25mm Lug-to-lug: 48mm Case material: Stainless steel Crystal: Domed sapphire Water resistance: 200m Lume: Super-LumiNova Bracelet: Beads of rice with deployant clasp and diver’s extension Wrist Feel The 45mm case wears compactly thanks to the 48mm lug-to-lug and the curved lugs that hug the wrist. flimsy, and the clasp’s diver’s extension adds a touch of tool-watch authenticity. At 17.25mm thick, it is a substantial watch on the wrist, and the domed sapphire crystal adds further visual height.

Weight is moderate; it’s not a heavy diver, but it feels substantial enough to remind you it’s there. The crown at 4 o’clock (a Doxa signature) avoids digging into the wrist, and the bezel action is crisp with 120 clicks. Overall, it’s a watch you can wear all day without fatigue—perfect for the wealthy collector who goes from brunch to the yacht club.

Accuracy

The Sellita SW200-1 typically runs within -10 to +20 seconds per day out of the box. In real-world use, expect around +10 to +15 seconds daily. It’s not COSC-certified, but for a dive watch at this price point, it’s acceptable. If you’re a stickler for precision, you can have it regulated, but most buyers won’t notice the difference.

Occasions

This watch is best suited for sport, daily wear, and travel. It’s not a formal piece, but it can dress up with a leather strap. The dive bezel and 200m water resistance make it a capable tool for actual diving.

Wrist Presence 4/5 – The orange accents and distinctive bezel make it instantly recognizable, but the 45mm case keeps it from being a wrist monster. It’s bold enough to start conversations without screaming for attention.

Reference Variants

Family References

Doxa SUB 200T, SUB 300, SUB 600T

Other Notable Models by Doxa

Doxa SUB 300T, Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH (other dials), Doxa SUB 200 Professional

Similar Watches

Homages

Investment Value

MSRP: $1,990. Current retail: $1,990. Pre-owned range: $1,200–$1,600. Trend: stable. Hold recommendation: Buy it to wear, not to flip. The Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH holds its value reasonably well but won’t appreciate like a Rolex. It’s a solid long-term keeper for the enthusiast. Auction history: No major auction history.

Service Interval

Every 5 years, approximate cost $400. Can be serviced by any competent watchmaker; Doxa also offers factory service in Switzerland.

Price Range

$1,200–$1,990. Verdict: Fair value for a heritage dive watch with a cult following. Not a bargain, but not a rip-off either.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Cons

Final Verdict

The Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH is a faithful reissue of a classic dive watch, offering vintage charm with modern reliability. It’s a low-risk entry into horological history—wear it, dive it, and keep it as a conversation starter. It won’t make you rich, but it will make you look like you know what you’re doing.