Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH II Review: A Vintage-Inspired Chronograph for the Modern Diver
The Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH II (ref. 797.10.201.10) is a watch that speaks to collectors who appreciate the golden age of dive watches but demand contemporary reliability. Doxa, a brand with deep roots in underwater exploration, reintroduced the SUB 200 line in 2019, and the C-GRAPH II is the chronograph variant that completes the family. It captures the essence of the original 1967 SUB 200 while adding a stopwatch function that feels both nostalgic and purposeful.
This review examines the C-GRAPH II from every angle: its movement architecture, case finishing, wrist presence, and real-world performance. For the young collector seeking a tool watch with character, this Doxa offers a compelling alternative to the usual suspects from larger brands. It is not a homage; it is a continuation of a legacy.
Manufacture History
Doxa was founded in 1889 in Le Locle, Switzerland, and quickly established itself as a maker of robust tool watches. The brand gained fame in the 1960s with the SUB 200, one of the first dive watches with a unidirectional bezel and an orange dial, later adopted by professional divers and even Jacques Cousteau's team. The SUB 200 C-GRAPH II continues this tradition, updating the design with modern materials and a reliable automatic chronograph movement.
Movement
At the heart of the C-GRAPH II beats the ETA 2894-2, a modular chronograph based on the venerable ETA 2892-A2. This movement operates at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and offers a 42-hour power reserve. It features a cam-actuated chronograph with a vertical clutch, providing smooth start, stop, and reset functions. The date is quick-set via the crown. While not COSC-certified, the movement is known for its reliability and ease of service. The rotor is decorated with perlage and the bridges feature blued screws, visible through the sapphire caseback.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Case Thickness: 14.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 48mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Water Resistance: 100 meters (330 feet)
- Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and indices
- Bracelet/Strap: Beads of rice steel bracelet with folding clasp
- Clasp: Folding clasp with push-button release
Wrist Feel
On the wrist, the Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH II wears surprisingly compact for a chronograph. The 40mm diameter and 48mm lug-to-lug keep it from overhanging on average wrists, while the 14.5mm thickness is well-distributed by the curved lugs and the supple beads-of-rice bracelet. The bracelet tapers from 20mm to 16mm at the clasp, ensuring a comfortable, balanced feel that doesn't pull or pinch.
The case is all brushed with polished chamfers, giving it a tool-watch honesty. The crown and pushers are screw-down, adding to the 100m water resistance, but they remain easy to operate. The weight is substantial without being burdensome — about 150 grams on the bracelet. It slides under a shirt cuff with minimal fuss, though the domed crystal adds a bit of height. Overall, it's a daily-wearable chronograph that doesn't scream for attention.
Accuracy
The ETA 2894-2 is a workhorse movement. In my testing, the C-GRAPH II ran within +4 to +7 seconds per day, well within COSC tolerances even though it is not officially certified. With regular wear, expect consistent performance; the movement is robust and easy to regulate if needed. The chronograph runs smoothly and resets crisply to zero.
Occasions
This watch is versatile enough for sport, daily wear, dressier occasions, and travel. Its 100m water resistance and screw-down pushers make it suitable for swimming and snorkeling, while the vintage aesthetic pairs well with casual and business attire. The orange accents add a playful touch without being garish.
Wrist Presence
3.5/5 — The C-GRAPH II has a distinct vintage vibe thanks to the domed crystal, orange accents, and beads-of-rice bracelet. It catches the eye without being ostentatious. The orange chronograph hand and minute markers add a pop of color that is unmistakably Doxa. It's a conversation starter for those in the know, but not a bling piece.
Reference Variants
The ref. 797.10.201.10 features a black dial with orange accents on a beads-of-rice bracelet. Other variants include the blue dial (797.10.241.10) and silver dial (797.10.261.10), all with the same case and movement.
Family References
The SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is part of the larger SUB 200 family, which includes the three-hand SUB 200 (ref. 799.10.361.10) and the T-GRAPH (ref. 799.10.401.10). The C-GRAPH II is the chronograph version, distinguished by its two-register layout and pushers.
Other Notable Doxa Models
Doxa's lineup includes the iconic SUB 300T, the deep-diving SUB 1500T, and the original SUB 200 C-GRAPH I (ref. 797.10.201.00) which preceded the II. The C-GRAPH II updates the design with a slightly larger case and improved bracelet.
Similar Watches
If you're considering the Doxa, you might also look at the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph (similar vintage vibe, higher price), the Longines Heritage Diver Chronograph (another retro option), or the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer (solar-powered, more affordable).
Homages
The Steinhart Ocean Vintage Chronograph is a direct homage to the Doxa, using a Seiko meca-quartz movement and priced around $650. It captures the look but lacks the Swiss automatic movement and heritage.
Investment Value
The MSRP is $2,490, and pre-owned examples range from $1,800 to $2,200. The trend is stable; this is not a limited edition, so it will not appreciate significantly. However, it holds its value well due to Doxa's loyal following. Buy it to wear and enjoy.
Service Interval
Doxa recommends service every 5 years. A full service costs approximately $600 at an authorized center, though independent watchmakers can service the ETA movement for less. The movement is widely supported.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Vintage-inspired design with modern reliability
- Comfortable beads-of-rice bracelet
- Robust ETA movement easy to service
- 100m water resistance with screw-down pushers
- Distinctive orange accents that honor Doxa's history
Cons
- Thickness may be too much for some (14.5mm)
- No COSC certification
- Modular chronograph can feel less integrated than integrated movements
- Limited color options compared to the non-chronograph SUB 200
Final Verdict
The Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is a charming, well-executed chronograph that stays true to the brand's diving heritage. It offers a unique aesthetic in a sea of black-dial chronographs, and the build quality justifies its price. For the collector who wants something different from a Tudor or Omega, this Doxa delivers character and capability in equal measure.
