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Estée Lauder Cinnabar Review: A Timeless Oriental Spice Masterpiece

Discover the enduring allure of Estée Lauder's Cinnabar, a fragrance that has captivated discerning noses for decades with its opulent and sophisticated embrace of oriental spices.

By Dr. Laurent Beaumont · · Updated
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Launched in 1978, Estée Lauder Cinnabar emerged during a period of burgeoning interest in opulent and exotic fragrances, a stark contrast to the lighter, fresher scents that had previously dominated the market. The late 1970s saw a shift towards richer, more complex compositions, particularly those drawing inspiration from the East. Estée Lauder, a brand synonymous with classic elegance and aspirational luxury, sought to capture this exotic allure in a scent that would embody warmth, sensuality, and timeless sophistication. Cinnabar was positioned as a more mature, complex, and decidedly opulent offering within Estée Lauder's growing fragrance portfolio, aiming to appeal to a woman who exuded confidence and a refined sense of style. It was meticulously crafted to be a statement fragrance, one that announced its presence with grace and undeniable charisma, standing shoulder to shoulder with other iconic oriental creations of the era.

Within the Estée Lauder brand, Cinnabar occupied a distinct niche, representing the brand's commitment to creating enduring, high-quality fragrances that transcended fleeting trends. While other Estée Lauder fragrances might have catered to different moods and sensibilities, Cinnabar was unequivocally positioned as an oriental gourmand, a rich tapestry woven with spices, resins, and sweet, warm notes. It was designed to be a companion for evening wear and special occasions, a scent that evoked a sense of luxurious indulgence and sophisticated sensuality. Its success solidified Estée Lauder's reputation not just as a purveyor of skincare and makeup, but as a significant player in the world of fine perfumery, capable of creating scents with profound depth and lasting appeal. It was a testament to the brand's understanding of a sophisticated consumer's desire for fragrances that told a story and left a memorable impression.

The very name, 'Cinnabar,' conjures images of rich, deep red hues, precious stones, and ancient trade routes. The inspiration behind this fragrance was undoubtedly the exoticism and opulence of the Orient, a region that had long fascinated the Western world with its spices, silks, and mystical allure. Perfumers sought to translate the sensory experience of this distant land into a wearable olfactive journey. The concept was to create a scent that was both comforting and alluring, warm and inviting, yet undeniably sophisticated and mysterious. It was envisioned as a fragrance that would envelop the wearer in a rich, comforting embrace, reminiscent of the warmth of a crackling fire on a cool evening, or the fragrant spice markets of faraway lands. The aim was to evoke a sense of timeless beauty and refined sensuality, a fragrance that would make a woman feel both grounded and glamorous.

Over the decades, Estée Lauder Cinnabar has cultivated a devoted following and a distinguished reputation within the fragrance community. It is often cited as a benchmark for classic oriental fragrances, a scent that has stood the test of time, remaining relevant and desirable even as fragrance trends have evolved. Its rich, complex character has earned it a place in the collections of fragrance connoisseurs and casual wearers alike. Cinnabar is frequently lauded for its impressive longevity and sillage, making it a reliable choice for those seeking a fragrance that endures. While it may not always be in the spotlight of contemporary releases, its enduring presence and consistent quality ensure its status as a beloved classic. It represents a certain era of perfumery, one that celebrated boldness, richness, and a distinctly feminine sensuality, and its continued availability speaks volumes about its timeless appeal and the loyalty of its admirers.

The Nose Behind the Scent

Bernard Chant, a distinguished perfumer at International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), is the nose behind Estée Lauder Cinnabar. Known for his bold and sophisticated creations, Chant also authored iconic scents such as Aramis and Aramis 900, demonstrating his mastery in crafting enduring and complex fragrances.

4.4 Overall
Longevity
4.7
Projection
4.2
Sillage
4.0
$60 - $100 USD for 100ml EDT
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Spicy 35%
Sweet 30%
Oriental 20%
Woody 10%
Floral 5%

Notes Pyramid

Top
CinnamonPlumOrange BlossomPeachTangerine
Heart
CloveJasmineRoseYlang-YlangIncenseNutmeg
Base
OpoponaxSandalwoodAmberPatchouliMuskVanillaVetiverCedar

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The initial impression is a bright, almost effervescent burst of fruity sweetness from the plum, peach, and tangerine, quickly intertwined with the unmistakable warmth of cinnamon. The orange blossom adds a delicate floral lift, preventing the opening from becoming overly heavy. This phase is inviting and immediately signals the fragrance's spicy, oriental character, hinting at the richness to come.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the top notes recede, the heart of Cinnabar truly blossoms. The spices become more pronounced, with clove and nutmeg taking center stage, their warmth enhanced by the mystical aroma of incense. This spicy heart is beautifully softened by the classic floral pairing of jasmine and rose, with ylang-ylang adding a creamy, slightly tropical nuance. The transition is seamless, moving from bright fruit to a deep, aromatic core that is both sophisticated and comforting.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The drydown is where Cinnabar reveals its enduring power and sensuality. The base notes emerge as a luxurious embrace of resins, woods, and sweet, creamy elements. Opoponax, a sweet myrrh, lends a balsamic richness, while sandalwood and cedar provide a smooth, woody foundation. Amber adds a golden warmth, and patchouli contributes a touch of earthy depth. The subtle sweetness of vanilla and the animalic undertones of musk create a skin-like warmth that is incredibly seductive. Vetiver provides a final, refined woody touch, grounding the entire composition with an elegant finish that lingers for hours.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 4.7/5

Exceptional longevity, easily lasting 10-12 hours on skin and over 24 hours on clothing.

📢 Projection 4.2/5

Substantial projection for the initial hours, creating a noticeable aura extending 3-4 feet.

💨 Sillage 4.0/5

A rich, warm, and spicy trail that is both memorable and elegant, leaving a persistent, luxurious presence.

When to Wear

🌸SpringOK
☀️SummerAvoid
🍂FallBest
❄️WinterBest

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.4
👃 Scent
4.5
⏱️ Longevity
4.7
💨 Sillage
4.0
💰 Value
4.2

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ Exceptional longevity and projection
  • ✅ Rich, complex, and unique oriental-spicy scent profile
  • ✅ Evokes warmth, luxury, and sophistication
  • ✅ Timeless classic that remains relevant
  • ✅ Beautifully balanced blend of spices, florals, and resins
  • ❌ Can be overpowering if over-applied
  • ❌ Intensity may not appeal to those preferring lighter scents
  • ❌ May be perceived as dated by some, though appreciated as vintage charm by many

Price & Value

$60 - $100 USD for 100ml EDT
Mid-range to Premium

“Absolutely worth the investment for its quality, performance, and classic status.”

📜 Reformulation History

Anecdotal evidence suggests potential subtle shifts from vintage formulations, but current versions remain highly regarded for maintaining the fragrance's original spirit and quality. Estée Lauder is known for preserving its classic scents.

4.6 Overall
Longevity
4.8
Projection
4.3
Sillage
4.5
$120-170 for 100ml
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Spicy 40%
Sweet 25%
Woody 20%
Ambery 15%

Notes Pyramid

Top
CinnamonPlumOrange BlossomPeachTangerine
Heart
CloveJasmineRoseYlang-YlangIncenseNutmeg
Base
OpoponaxSandalwoodAmberPatchouliMuskVanillaVetiverCedar

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The Eau de Parfum presents an immediate, more viscous embrace of the warm spices, particularly cinnamon and clove, which are amplified compared to the EDT's brighter opening. The fruit notes, while still present, recede slightly to allow the opulent heart to assert itself with greater conviction. The initial impression is one of profound richness and warmth.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

The heart notes unfurl with a luxurious density. The floral bouquet of jasmine and rose is deepened by the resinous character of incense and the creamy sweetness of ylang-ylang. This phase is more prolonged and pronounced in the EDP, showcasing a more intricate interplay of elements, with the spices acting as a vibrant undercurrent rather than a fleeting top note.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The drydown of Cinnabar EDP is a testament to its concentration, offering an enduring and profound immersion in its opulent base. The sandalwood and opoponax create a velvety, almost syrupy texture, while the amber, vanilla, and musk provide a sensuous, lingering warmth. The woody and earthy facets from vetiver and patchouli anchor the composition, ensuring a sophisticated and unforgettable trail that is notably more substantial and persistent than that of its EDT counterpart.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 4.8/5

Exceptional longevity, easily lasting 12+ hours on skin.

📢 Projection 4.3/5

Robust projection for the initial 5-6 hours, creating a noticeable aura.

💨 Sillage 4.5/5

A commanding and opulent sillage that leaves a memorable impression.

When to Wear

🌸SpringOK
☀️SummerAvoid
🍂FallBest
❄️WinterBest

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.6
👃 Scent
4.7
⏱️ Longevity
4.8
💨 Sillage
4.5
💰 Value
4.0

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ Unparalleled depth and richness
  • ✅ Exceptional longevity and projection
  • ✅ More opulent and complex olfactory experience
  • ✅ Ideal for colder weather
  • ❌ Higher investment
  • ❌ May be perceived as too intense for some
  • ❌ Less suitable for warmer climates or daytime wear

Price & Value

$120-170 for 100ml
Luxury

“The elevated price point reflects the increased concentration and enhanced olfactory experience, offering superior performance and depth.”

📜 Reformulation History

While Cinnabar has undergone subtle reformulations over the decades, the EDP concentration generally maintains a more consistent and intensified expression of its original opulent character compared to the EDT. Specific batch variations might exhibit minor nuances in the balance of spices or the richness of the amber accord, but the core identity remains robust.

4.7 Overall
Longevity
4.8
Projection
4.3
Sillage
4.5
$150-200 for 75ml
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Spicy 40%
Sweet 30%
Woody 20%
Amber 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
CinnamonPlumPeachOrange BlossomTangerine
Heart
CloveJasmineRoseYlang-YlangIncenseNutmeg
Base
OpoponaxSandalwoodAmberPatchouliMuskVanillaVetiverCedar

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The initial impression is a sumptuous embrace of warm cinnamon and ripe plum, immediately richer and more viscous than its EDT counterpart, with the peach and tangerine offering a fleeting, juicy sweetness before yielding to the heart.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

The heart unfolds with an intensified opulence, where the clove and nutmeg lend a profound spiciness, beautifully interwoven with the narcotic florals of jasmine and rose. The incense note is more pronounced, lending a sacred, smoky depth.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The drydown is an exquisite tapestry of resinous opoponax, creamy sandalwood, and rich amber, creating a profoundly sensual and lingering base. The vanilla and musk provide a velvety softness, while patchouli and vetiver anchor the composition with earthy sophistication.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 4.8/5

Exceptional longevity, easily exceeding 12-14 hours on skin.

📢 Projection 4.3/5

Robust projection for the initial 6-8 hours, creating a noticeable yet refined aura.

💨 Sillage 4.5/5

A dense, luxurious sillage that leaves a memorable and opulent trail.

When to Wear

🌸SpringAvoid
☀️SummerAvoid
🍂FallBest
❄️WinterBest

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.7
👃 Scent
4.8
⏱️ Longevity
4.8
💨 Sillage
4.7
💰 Value
4.2

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ Unparalleled richness and depth
  • ✅ Exceptional longevity and projection
  • ✅ Intensified spicy and resinous character
  • ✅ Luxurious and opulent experience
  • ❌ Significantly higher price point
  • ❌ Less suitable for warmer climates or casual wear
  • ❌ Can be overwhelmingly potent for some

Price & Value

$150-200 for 75ml
Luxury

“The elevated price reflects the superior concentration and enhanced olfactory experience.”

📜 Reformulation History

While reformulations are always a consideration, the Parfum concentration generally maintains a more consistent and intense profile due to its higher oil content. Owners often report a greater fidelity to the original opulent spirit of Cinnabar in this variant.

Who It's For

✅ Ideal For

  • Women aged 30+
  • Confident, sensual, and sophisticated personalities
  • Admirers of oriental, spicy, and gourmand scents

⚠️ Not Recommended For

  • Fans of light, fresh, aquatic, or minimalist scents
  • Individuals sensitive to strong spices or sweet resins
  • Conservative office environments

The Family

Explore More

🔍 Similar Fragrances

Opium Yves Saint Laurent

Shares opulent oriental DNA and prominent spices.

Shalimar Guerlain

Classic oriental vanilla, though Cinnabar is more intensely spiced.

Obsession Calvin Klein

Similar warm, spicy, and ambery character.

Caleche Hermès

Shares classic elegance and depth, but is less overtly spicy.

💡 Clone Alternatives

Al-Rehab CPO (certain spice/oriental blends) Al-Rehab

Offers a strong spicy and resinous character at a very accessible price point.

Certain Avon fragrances (1980s/90s) Avon

Some older Avon scents had a similar opulent oriental character.

❤️ You May Also Enjoy

Youth-Dew Estée Lauder

For lovers of bold, vintage-style oriental spice.

Jungle L'Éléphant Kenzo

For those appreciating intense, warm spices like cinnamon and clove.

Palazzo Fendi

For a more modern oriental with a rich floral heart and amber base.

Hypnotic Poison Dior

For those who enjoy rich, sweet, and almond-vanilla oriental profiles.

More from Estée Lauder

Youth-Dew Estée Lauder
White Linen Estée Lauder
Pleasures Estée Lauder
Knowing Estée Lauder

🧪 Layering Ideas

🏆 Final Verdict

Estée Lauder Cinnabar is more than just a fragrance; it is an enduring testament to the artistry of classic perfumery. For the discerning individual who seeks a scent that speaks of sophistication, warmth, and timeless allure, Cinnabar is an indispensable addition to one's collection. Its masterful blend of opulent spices, rich florals, and balsamic resins creates an olfactive narrative that is both comforting and captivating. The performance metrics—exceptional longevity, robust projection, and a memorable sillage—ensure that this fragrance remains a constant, elegant companion throughout the day and into the night. It is a scent that commands respect and admiration, consistently eliciting compliments and making the wearer feel enveloped in a luxurious, well-crafted aura. While modern perfumery often trends towards the ephemeral, Cinnabar stands as a proud beacon of enduring quality and profound character. One should acquire Cinnabar not merely as a purchase, but as an investment in a piece of fragrance history that continues to offer unparalleled olfactory pleasure and a distinct sense of refined elegance.

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