Etat Libre d'Orange Fragrance review

True Lust Rayon Violet de Ses Yeux Review | Vivir

A daring fusion of violet, leather, and rum that seduces with powdery elegance.

By Vivir ·
In the realm of niche perfumery, Etat Libre d'Orange stands as a provocateur, crafting scents that defy conventions and ignite conversations. True Lust Rayon Violet De Ses Yeux, released in 2015, is a testament to this ethos—a unisex fragrance that merges the DNA of two of the house's most beloved creations: Putain des Palaces and Dangerous Complicity. The result is a symphony of violet, leather, and rum, wrapped in a powdery embrace that is both sensual and sophisticated. It is a fragrance that invites you to explore the depths of desire and indulgence, a true olfactory masterpiece that challenges the boundaries of traditional perfumery. The name, translating to 'True Lust Violet Ray of His Eyes,' hints at the intoxicating blend within. This is not a shy fragrance; it announces itself with a bold opening of violet and rum, then unfolds into a heart of osmanthus and jasmine, before settling into a base of leather, sandalwood, and ambergris. It is a scent that demands attention yet remains intimately close-wearing after the initial flourish. As a Master Fragrance Reviewer, I find True Lust to be a captivating exploration of contrasts: the sweetness of coconut and rose against the animalic depth of leather and ambergris, the freshness of tangerine against the warmth of ginger. It is a fragrance that rewards patience, revealing its many facets over hours of wear.
Longevity
4.0
Projection
3.0
Sillage
3.0
$110-$160
SpringSummerFallWinter

Accords

Woody Violet Powdery Floral Rum Leather Sweet Animalic Fresh Lactonic

Notes Pyramid

Top
VioletRumCoconutRoseGinger
Heart
OsmanthusYlang-YlangTangerineJasmineLily-of-the-Valley
Base
LeatherSandalwoodRiceAmbergris

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The first 30 minutes are a whirlwind of violet and rum, with a surprising twist of coconut that adds a creamy, tropical nuance. Rose and ginger provide a spicy floral counterpoint, creating an opening that is both boozy and powdery, with a hint of sweetness. The violet is prominent, its powdery facets enhanced by the rum's warmth. It's a bold, attention-grabbing start that sets the stage for the complex journey ahead.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the fragrance settles, the heart emerges after 1-2 hours. Osmanthus brings a leathery, fruity aspect, while ylang-ylang adds a creamy floral richness. Tangerine lends a brief citrusy lift, and jasmine and lily-of-the-valley contribute a clean, green floralcy. The powdery violet remains, but now it is wrapped in a bouquet of white flowers. The scent becomes more rounded and harmonious, with the leathery undertones of osmanthus hinting at what's to come.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

After 4 hours, the base takes center stage. Leather is the star, supported by sandalwood's creamy woodiness and the unique note of rice, which adds a starchy, soft texture. Ambergris provides a salty, animalic warmth that lingers on the skin. The overall effect is a soft, powdery leather with a subtle sweetness, reminiscent of a vintage glove. The drydown is intimate and skin-like, staying close to the body for hours.

Performance Dashboard

Longevity 4.0/5

6-8 hours

Projection 3.0/5

moderate — soft-edged, close-wearing after the opening

Sillage 3.0/5

moderate

When to Wear

SpringOK
SummerAvoid
FallBest
WinterBest
date nightevening outoffice (light application)cold-weather daily wear

Pros & Cons

  • Unique and complex composition
  • High-quality ingredients
  • Provocative and artistic
  • Good longevity
  • Unisex appeal
  • May be too heavy for some
  • Polarizing scent profile
  • Moderate projection might not satisfy those who want strong sillage
  • Price is niche-level

Price & Value

$110-$160
Good value for a niche fragrance with a unique and complex composition.

“Reasonable for the quality and artistry; a worthy addition for collectors of unconventional scents.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported.

Who It's For

Ideal For

  • Those who appreciate complex, powdery-leather fragrances
  • Fans of violet and rum notes
  • Unisex fragrance lovers
  • Individuals seeking a unique signature scent

Not Recommended For

  • Those who prefer fresh, citrusy, or aquatic fragrances
  • Those who dislike powdery or animalic accords
  • Office workers in conservative environments (due to projection)

Explore More

Layering Ideas

Final Verdict

True Lust Rayon Violet De Ses Yeux is a daring and artistic fragrance that showcases Etat Libre d'Orange's knack for blending unconventional notes into a harmonious whole. Its powdery violet and leather accord is both sensual and sophisticated, making it a standout choice for those who appreciate niche perfumery. While its moderate projection may not appeal to everyone, its unique character and good longevity make it a worthy addition to any collection.

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