Ex Nihilo Fragrance review
Ex Nihilo My Sweetest Morphine Review: A Powdery Floral Veil
A scholarly analysis of Ex Nihilo's 2023 lilac-mimosa composition by Natalie Cetto.
In this review
Ex Nihilo, founded in Paris in 2013, has established itself as a house of 'olfactory high fashion,' collaborating with renowned perfumers to create fragrances that are both luxurious and innovative. The name, meaning 'out of nothing,' suggests a process of creation that is both spontaneous and meticulously crafted. My Sweetest Morphine, released in 2023, is a testament to this philosophy. Composed by Natalie Cetto, it is a fragrance that plays with contrasts: the sweetness of the name suggests a gourmand, yet the composition is a powdery floral, a veil of lilac and mimosa that is both comforting and intriguing.
The name 'My Sweetest Morphine' evokes a sense of addictive sweetness, a narcotic allure. However, the fragrance itself is far from a sugary confection. Instead, it is a nuanced exploration of floral powdery notes, anchored by a musky-woody base. This juxtaposition is characteristic of Ex Nihilo's approach, where the narrative often belies the olfactory reality. In this case, the 'morphine' is the addictive quality of the scent itself—a soft, skin-close aura that invites repeated wear.
In this comprehensive review, we will dissect the composition, analyze its scent evolution, evaluate its performance, and situate it within the broader context of powdery florals. We will also consider its value proposition and compare it to similar fragrances. Our aim is to provide a scholarly and detailed analysis for the discerning fragrance enthusiast.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The opening is a burst of fresh, green lilac, accentuated by the sparkle of bergamot and the airiness of ozonic notes. This initial phase is bright and dewy, reminiscent of a spring morning in a garden. The lilac is prominent but not aggressive; it is soft and slightly powdery even at this stage. The ozonic notes add a transparency that makes the opening feel light and buoyant.
As the fragrance transitions into its heart, the mimosa and rose emerge. The mimosa adds a honeyed, powdery warmth, while the solar notes create a radiant glow. The rose is subtle, adding depth without overpowering the yellow floral character. This mid-phase is the most 'perfumey' part of the fragrance, where the powdery accord becomes most pronounced. It is here that the fragrance's unisex nature is most apparent—it is floral but not overtly feminine, thanks to the green and woody undertones.
The drydown reveals the base notes. Musk becomes prominent, enveloping the skin in a soft, clean embrace. Patchouli and vetiver add a subtle earthiness, a whisper of woodiness that anchors the fragrance. The powdery quality persists but is now more subdued, blending with the musk to create a skin-close aura. The overall effect is intimate and comforting, like a cashmere scarf.
Performance Dashboard
6-8 hours (moderate; estimated from reviews, not officially published)
soft to moderate — described in reviews as a light, airy, powdery veil close to skin
moderate
When to Wear
Pros & Cons
- Beautifully crafted lilac and mimosa accord
- Soft, airy, and elegant
- Unisex and versatile for office and daytime
- Moderate longevity for a light floral
- Moderate to soft projection may disappoint those seeking stronger sillage
- Price point is high for the performance
- Powdery character may not appeal to everyone
- Limited availability in some markets
Price & Value
“Fair for the brand, but not a value-driven purchase.”
Reformulation History
No significant batch variations reported.
Who It's For
Ideal For
- lovers of powdery florals
- those who prefer subtle, skin-close scents
- fans of lilac and mimosa notes
- unisex fragrance enthusiasts
Not Recommended For
- those seeking strong projection or bold statement scents
- individuals who dislike powdery or musky drydowns
- anyone looking for a gourmand or sweet-heavy fragrance
Explore More
Similar Fragrances
En Passant
Lilac Path
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Chanel No. 19 Poudre
Iris Poudre
Blue Talisman
Lust in Paradise
Narcotique
Brumpton Immortals
Fascinate
Rose
Layering Ideas
- Layer with a single note of vanilla or benzoin to add warmth and depth to the powdery floral heart.
- Combine with a citrus cologne or a light woody base to enhance freshness and extend longevity.
