Ex Nihilo Fragrance review
Ex Nihilo Spiky Musk
Strawberry, pistachio, and rose collide in a daringly modern floral gourmand.

In this review
In the ever-evolving landscape of niche perfumery, few houses manage to consistently surprise and delight quite like Ex Nihilo. With their latest release, Spiky Muse, the Parisian atelier invites us into a world where sweetness wears a thorny crown. This is not a shy, retiring floral; it is a fragrance that demands attention, whispers of rebellion, and then seduces with an unexpected tenderness.
Created by the talented British perfumer Louise Turner, Spiky Muse (launched in 2025) is a study in contrasts. The name itself hints at a muse who is both inspiring and unpredictable—sharp, yet captivating. From the very first spritz, you are greeted by a luminous burst of strawberry, bergamot, and pink pepper. It’s a vibrant, almost electric opening that immediately sets this scent apart from the sea of conventional rose perfumes. This is not your grandmother’s rose water; this is a rose that has been to a cocktail party and decided to stay for the after-hours.
At its heart, Spiky Muse reveals a lush rose absolute, but it is the unexpected pistachio accord that steals the show. Creamy, nutty, and slightly salty, it grounds the floralcy in a gourmand embrace that feels both decadent and modern. The base is a sophisticated blend of cedarwood, Akigalawood (a patented Givaudan molecule with a peppery, patchouli-like facet), Ambrofix (a clean, ambery wood), and tonka bean. Together, they provide a warm, slightly smoky foundation that lingers like a whispered secret. Spiky Muse is a fragrance for the woman who loves her femininity with a twist—a muse who is soft, but never soft.
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Performance Dashboard
6-8 hours
Soft to moderate – intimate for the first hour, then settles closer to the skin
Moderate – leaves a noticeable but not overwhelming trail
When to Wear
Pros & Cons
- Unique pistachio-rose pairing that feels fresh and original
- High-quality ingredients with a beautifully blended composition
- Versatile enough for both day and evening wear
- Longevity is solid for an EDP of this style
- Price point is steep at €280 for 100ml
- The sweetness may be too cloying for those who prefer dry, green scents
- Pink pepper can be sharp on initial spray for sensitive noses
- Not a groundbreaking sillage monster—better for intimate settings
Price & Value
“Premium pricing that reflects the niche quality and unique composition. Worth it for collectors and gourmand rose enthusiasts, but a significant investment for casual buyers.”
Reformulation History
No significant batch variations reported as of early 2025; the fragrance is newly released and batches appear consistent.
The Family
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Layering Ideas
- Layer with a vanilla musk like Ex Nihilo’s own Cologne 352 to deepen the creamy base.
- Spritz over a light citrus body oil to brighten the strawberry top notes.
- Combine with a woody cedar perfume for a more unisex, earthy drydown.
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