Ex Nihilo Supernatural Oud Review: A Scholarly Analysis
The Alchemy of Oil: Jordi Fernández’s Ethereal Interpretation of Agarwood
By Vivir·
In this review
In the contemporary landscape of haute parfumerie, few houses have managed to balance the avant-garde with the traditional as effectively as Ex Nihilo. With the release of Supernatural Oud, the house ventures into the ancient ritual of the perfumed oil, a medium that predates the alcohol-based sprays of modern Western perfumery. This release represents a significant pivot toward intimacy and tactile luxury, offering a concentrated 15ml oil that demands a different kind of engagement from the wearer.
Supernatural Oud is not merely a fragrance; it is a study in texture and persistence. By utilizing the oil format, Ex Nihilo invites the connoisseur to return to the 'gestuelle' of scent—the application to pulse points where the warmth of the skin activates the complex molecules of agarwood and resin. As a historian of scent, one cannot ignore the parallels between this creation and the traditional attars of the East, yet the composition remains firmly rooted in the sophisticated, clean aesthetic that defines the Parisian house.
This analysis seeks to deconstruct the architectural layers of Supernatural Oud, exploring how perfumer Jordi Fernández has utilized Givaudan's proprietary technology, such as the Lysylang captive, to modernize one of perfumery’s most ancient and polarizing ingredients: Oud. We will examine its evolution from the metallic sting of saffron to the balsamic serenity of its final drydown.
Longevity
5.0
Projection
3.0
Sillage
3.0
$475
SpringSummerFallWinter
Accords
Oud25%
Warm Spicy20%
White Floral15%
Amber10%
Smoky10%
Balsamic10%
Vanilla5%
Rose5%
Notes Pyramid
Top
SaffronRose
Heart
Agarwood (Oud)JasmineLysylang
Base
IncenseVanillaMusk
Scent Journey
1
Opening0-30 min
The fragrance initiates with a sharp, sophisticated interplay between the leathery bitterness of Saffron and a dewy, almost translucent Rose. The oil format ensures these top notes do not dissipate rapidly, but rather cling to the skin with a velvet-like texture.
2
Heart1-2 hrs
As the heart emerges, the Agarwood takes center stage, stripped of any 'barnyard' funk. It is accompanied by a luminous white floral accord where Jasmine provides indolic depth and Lysylang adds a creamy, solar radiance that prevents the wood from becoming too heavy.
3
Drydown4+ hrs
The final phase is a masterclass in balsamic warmth. The Oud persists, but is softened by a high-quality Vanilla and a clean, skin-like Musk. A subtle thread of Incense provides a lingering smoky trail that anchors the composition for hours.
Performance Dashboard
Longevity5.0/5
8+ hours; as a concentrated oil, it maintains remarkable tenacity on the skin.
Projection3.0/5
Moderate; stays within a personal scent bubble, characteristic of oil-based extraits.
Sillage3.0/5
Moderate; it creates a sophisticated aura rather than a wide trail.
When to Wear
SpringOK
SummerAvoid
FallBest
WinterBest
Date nightEvening outFormal eventsCold-weather signature
Pros & Cons
+Exceptional ingredient quality
+Highly concentrated and long-lasting
+Unique oil-based ritual
+Sophisticated take on oud
−High price point per ml
−Limited projection compared to EDP sprays
−15ml size may feel small for the price
Price & Value
$475
Luxury Tier
“A significant investment for the dedicated collector.”
Reformulation History
No significant batch variations reported; consistent with Ex Nihilo's high production standards.
Layer with Fleur Narcotique for a floral-woody depth
Pair with a clean musk to enhance the drydown
Final Verdict
Ex Nihilo Supernatural Oud is a triumph of textural perfumery, offering a refined and intimate experience for the discerning nose. While its price is steep, its quality and the artistry of Jordi Fernández make it a standout for those who value the quiet power of a concentrated oil.