Ex Nihilo Fragrance review

Ex Nihilo Venenum Kiss Signature Rose de Mai Review

A Scholarly Inquiry into the Synthesis of Grasse Rose and Oriental Opulence

By Vivir ·
In the annals of contemporary niche perfumery, few houses have managed to capture the zeitgeist of Parisian luxury as effectively as Ex Nihilo. Founded in 2013, the house has consistently prioritized a 'carte blanche' approach for its perfumers, allowing for the use of the finest raw materials without the constraints of traditional commercial budgets. Among their most celebrated compositions is the 2015 release, Venenum Kiss—a fragrance that redefined the neo-oriental genre through its intoxicating blend of apricot-hued suede and spicy resins. However, in 2021, the house elevated this narrative with the introduction of the 'Signature' series, a collection designed to highlight specific, prestigious raw materials within their most iconic formulas. The Venenum Kiss Signature Rose de Mai represents a pinnacle of this philosophy. By infusing the original, brooding DNA of Quentin Bisch’s composition with the ethereal luminosity of Rose de Mai from Grasse, the house has created a work of profound olfactory chiaroscuro. This review seeks to deconstruct the architectural integrity of this limited-edition flanker, examining how the introduction of a singular, high-pedigree floral absolute can fundamentally alter the trajectory of a well-established scent profile. It is not merely a variation; it is a scholarly refinement of a modern masterpiece.
Longevity
5.0
Projection
4.0
Sillage
4.0
$250 - $400
SpringSummerFallWinter

Accords

Woody 40%
Rose 25%
Vanilla 15%
Floral 10%
Powdery 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
SaffronNutmegNeroli
Heart
Rose de MaiArtemisiaAmber
Base
Woody NotesVanillaSandalwoodStyrax

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The fragrance commences with a sophisticated, spicy volute where the metallic chill of saffron meets the dry warmth of nutmeg. This initial phase is punctuated by a fleeting neroli brightness, though the 'poisonous' intent of the original Venenum Kiss is immediately apparent through a dense, candied-peach facet.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the top notes recede, the heart reveals the eponymous Rose de Mai. Unlike the more common Damascena rose, this Grasse absolute provides a clear, honeyed, and almost translucent floralcy. It is expertly balanced by the herbal bitterness of artemisia, which prevents the composition from succumbing to excessive sweetness.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The denouement is a masterclass in resinous warmth. The Rose de Mai does not disappear but rather melts into a base of creamy sandalwood and smoky styrax. The vanilla here is not gourmand but structural, providing a velvet-like texture that persists for hours on the skin.

Performance Dashboard

Longevity 5.0/5

8-10 hours; the base notes of styrax and sandalwood ensure a tenacious presence that survives well into the next day on fabric.

Projection 4.0/5

Heavy for the first two hours, eventually settling into a dense, personal aura that radiates at arm's length.

Sillage 4.0/5

Strong and commanding; it leaves a sophisticated trail that is noticeable without being suffocating.

When to Wear

SpringOK
SummerOK
FallBest
WinterBest
Evening WearFormal GalasIntimate Date NightsTheatrical Performances

Pros & Cons

  • Exquisite quality of Rose de Mai
  • Exceptional structural balance by Quentin Bisch
  • High-performance longevity
  • Unique take on the rose-saffron-vanilla trope
  • High price point
  • Limited availability
  • May be too heavy for daytime office wear

Price & Value

$250 - $400
Luxury Tier

“Given the concentration and the cost of Grasse Rose de Mai, the price is justified for serious collectors.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported; consistent with Ex Nihilo's high quality-control standards.

Who It's For

Ideal For

  • Connoisseurs of oriental florals
  • Collectors of Grasse rose absolutes
  • Those seeking a 'darker' romantic signature

Not Recommended For

  • Fans of fresh, aquatic scents
  • Those sensitive to saffron or heavy resins

The Family

Venenum Kiss (Original) Ex Nihilo
Venenum Kiss Signature Musc Ex Nihilo

Explore More

Layering Ideas

Final Verdict

Ex Nihilo Venenum Kiss Signature Rose de Mai is a triumph of modern niche perfumery, successfully marrying the carnal depth of an oriental with the delicate prestige of Grasse's finest harvest. It is a mandatory experience for any serious student of floral composition.

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Ex NihiloRose de MaiQuentin BischNiche PerfumeryLuxury FragranceOriental Floral