perfume

Guerlain Paris-Moscow Review: The Discontinued Legend Worth Hunting For

An insider's look at the mythical Guerlain scent that has become a collector's holy grail.

By Sofia Chen-Martinez ·

Listen closely, because what I'm about to share isn't something you'll find on a department store counter. We're going deep into the Guerlain archives for a fragrance that has become the stuff of legend among those in the know. I'm talking about Les Voyages Olfactifs 01 Paris-Moscow, a scent so transportive, so achingly beautiful, that its discontinuation in 2013 only fueled its mythic status. This isn't just perfume; it's a piece of history, a scented postcard from a journey between two of the world's most iconic capitals.

Launched back in 2009, Paris-Moscow was the inaugural release in Guerlain's ultra-exclusive travel collection, a series designed to capture the essence of global destinations. This wasn't part of their mainstream lineup. Oh no, this was a quiet, confident release for the discerning client, the kind of person who understands that true luxury whispers. It was created to evoke the opulent, snow-dusted journey on a luxury train from the elegance of Paris to the imperial grandeur of Moscow. The concept alone is enough to make a fragrance lover's heart skip a beat.

The inspiration is pure poetry. Imagine the crisp, biting air of a Russian winter, the scent of pine forests rushing past your window, contrasted with the warmth of a sable-lined compartment, a glass of something spiced and sweet in your hand. Perfumer Thierry Wasser managed to bottle this very duality – the chill and the comfort, the austerity and the opulence. It's a fragrance that doesn't scream for attention; it commands it with a cool, sophisticated gaze.

In the fragrance community, mentioning you own a bottle of Paris-Moscow is like saying you have a front-row seat at every fashion week. It grants instant credibility. It’s a unicorn, a ghost of Guerlain's past that represents a certain creative pinnacle. It’s for those who tired of the commercial sweet bombs and yearned for something with intelligence, a story, and a soul. Finding it now is a quest, but trust me, it's a journey worth taking.

The Nose Behind the Scent

Thierry Wasser, Guerlain's esteemed in-house Master Perfumer since 2008. He is the brilliant nose behind modern classics like Mon Guerlain and the revitalization of the exclusive L'Art et la Matière collection.

4.7 Overall
Longevity
3.8
Projection
3.2
Sillage
3.0
$300 - $500+ for 125ml on collector markets
🌸Springβ˜€οΈSummerπŸ‚Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Aromatic 30%
Woody 25%
Fruity 20%
Spicy 15%
Sweet 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
Pine NeedleLemonBergamotAbsinthe
Heart
PlumJasmineCumin
Base
Tonka BeanSandalwoodMuskVanilla

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

A bracing, photorealistic blast of cold air in a pine forest. The lemon and absinthe create a sharp, green, and incredibly chic opening that is both invigorating and unique. It feels like the first step off a train into the crisp Russian winter.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

The initial chill thaws as a juicy, slightly tart plum note emerges, beautifully balanced by the lingering pine. A subtle, warm spice from cumin adds a touch of humanity and complexity, preventing the scent from being purely atmospheric.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

Pure, understated luxury. The base is a creamy, cozy blend of tonka bean and sandalwood, creating a 'cashmere sweater' effect. It settles into a sophisticated, musky skin scent with a hint of vanilla that lasts for hours.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 3.8/5

Lasts a respectable 6-7 hours on skin, fading into a beautiful skin scent for the final hours.

πŸ“’ Projection 3.2/5

Moderate but deliberate. It creates a personal, elegant scent bubble for the first 2-3 hours before sitting closer to the skin.

πŸ’¨ Sillage 3.0/5

A subtle, sophisticated trail. It's noticeable to those nearby but is never intrusive, leaving a memorable whisper of scent.

When to Wear

🌸SpringOK
β˜€οΈSummerAvoid
πŸ‚FallBest
❄️WinterBest
🎩 Formal eventsπŸ“Œ Evening wearπŸ“Œ Intimate dinnersπŸ“Œ Art gallery visits✨ Special occasions

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.7
πŸ‘ƒ Scent
4.9
⏱️ Longevity
3.8
πŸ’¨ Sillage
3.5
πŸ’° Value
3.2
πŸ’Œ Compliment Factor 3.9/5

An intrigue-generator. It garners high-quality compliments focused on its uniqueness rather than mass appeal. Expect 'You smell amazing, what is that?'

Pros & Cons

  • βœ… Exquisitely unique and artistic scent profile
  • βœ… High-quality Guerlain ingredients and blending
  • βœ… Tells a beautiful, transportive story on the skin
  • βœ… A true collector's item with legendary status
  • ❌ Discontinued and extremely difficult to find
  • ❌ Exorbitant price on the secondary market
  • ❌ Not a safe blind buy due to its unique notes (absinthe, cumin)
  • ❌ Performance is moderate, not beast-mode

Price & Value

$300 - $500+ for 125ml on collector markets
Luxury / Collector's Item

“For a true fragrance aficionado, owning this piece of Guerlain history is worth the price of admission. For the casual buyer, it's an expensive indulgence.”

Who It's For

βœ… Ideal For

  • Fragrance collectors and connoisseurs (30+)
  • Individuals with a classic, sophisticated style
  • Those who appreciate artistic, story-driven perfumery
  • Wearers of any gender seeking a unique, elegant scent

⚠️ Not Recommended For

  • Beginners in the fragrance world
  • Fans of very sweet, loud, or mainstream scents
  • Anyone looking for a casual, everyday summer fragrance

The Family

Les Voyages Olfactifs 02 Paris-New York Guerlain

Part of the same exclusive travel collection, focusing on a different city.

Les Voyages Olfactifs 03 Paris-Tokyo Guerlain

Part of the same exclusive travel collection, focusing on a different city.

Les Voyages Olfactifs 04 Paris-Shanghai Guerlain

Part of the same exclusive travel collection, focusing on a different city.

Explore More

πŸ” Similar Fragrances

Fille en Aiguilles Serge Lutens

Shares a prominent, photorealistic pine note but is smokier and sweeter.

Sycomore Chanel

Evokes a similar cool, elegant, and woody sophistication, centered on vetiver.

Nuit de Noel Caron

Shares a vintage, melancholic, and complex character with a 'cold night' feel.

πŸ’‘ Clone Alternatives

Russian Tea Masque Milano

While not a clone, it captures a similar vibe of a warm, comforting scent in a cold environment, with notes of tea, raspberry, and birch.

Cape Heartache Imaginary Authors

Offers a different take on a pine/fir note, but with strawberry and vanilla, capturing a similar woody-fruity contrast.

❀️ You May Also Enjoy

L'Air du Desert Marocain Tauer Perfumes

Appeals to those who love atmospheric, transportive, and spicy-woody scents.

Bois d'Argent Dior

Shares a sophisticated, soft, and elegant woody-musk profile.

Vol de Nuit Guerlain

For lovers of classic, melancholic, and green-woody Guerlain masterpieces.

More from Guerlain

Shalimar Guerlain
L'Heure Bleue Guerlain
Mitsouko Guerlain
Santal Royal Guerlain

πŸ§ͺ Layering Ideas

πŸ† Final Verdict

Guerlain's Paris-Moscow is a masterpiece of narrative perfumery, a scent that truly transports the wearer. Its genius lies in the perfect balance of cold and warm, austerity and opulence. While its rarity makes it a challenging acquisition, it is the ultimate prize for the serious collector and for anyone seeking a signature scent that is both deeply intelligent and hauntingly beautiful. This isn't just a fragrance; it's an experience and a piece of art. If the opportunity ever arises to acquire it, do not hesitate. It's a legend for a reason.

Guerlaindiscontinued fragranceluxury perfumeThierry Wassercollector's fragranceParis-Moscow